New Zealand whites offer maximum freshness
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TECHNICALLY wine is fermented and not brewed but its interesting to compare the new craze of cold brewing coffee and tea with the modern preference of cold fermentation. Both cold processes are used to concentrate or emphasize certain desirable flavors while mitigating less desirable qualities.
Cold or iced coffee has long been popular in many countries. Thailand, Vietnam and India all have their versions of coffees served cold. The first version of true cold brewed coffee most likely comes from Kyoto, Japan where low temperature brewing was practiced in the 1600s. Some speculate that Dutch traders taught the Japanese a cold brewing technique they used on their ships. But it was in Kyoto that the process was first popularized.
Cold fermentation is a hot topic of debate in the wine world. Fermenting at a lower temperature helps emphasize the delicate aromas flavors of a wine. Conversely warmer fermentation emphasizes color and tannins. It’s therefore not terribly surprising that red wines are generally fermented at higher temperatures of 24-27 Celsius, while whites and rose wines are usually fermented at cooler temperatures between 15-20 Celsius. Some non-interventionist winemakers ferment their whites at higher temperature to make more concentrated wines that are more reflective of their vintage, but they are clearly in the minority. Modern wine drinkers are increasingly demanding ever-fresher whites, rose and in some cases red wine so cold fermentation is here to stay.
Because it’s very much a trend in the wine world, there are many wine regions that make excellent cold fermented wines. One region that features creative winemakers using the latest fermentation and other techniques to make world-beating wine is in the land of the Kiwis.
The success of Sauvignon Blancs from Marlborough, New Zealand is hardly a new story as these wines exploded on the scene in the late 1980s and early 1990s. This success hasn’t been a short-term phenomenon as the wines have gone from strength to strength. Today, Marlborough produces almost 80 percent of all New Zealand wines, of which Sauvignon Blanc comprises the vast majority.
Prior to 1974, when vines were first planted in Marlborough, there were just sheep and various vegetable and fruit farming in the area. Located in the north of South Island in New Zealand, the Sauvignon Blanc wines of Marlborough are a truly remarkable story. In the nearly seven thousand year history of wine, I know of no other instance where a style of wine from a specific region has come from obscurity to world-class in less than four decades. Yet this is exactly what has happened with the beautiful and exciting Sauvignon Blanc white wines from Marlborough. Surrounded by rough and beautiful hills and mountains, this cool climate region is ideal for making lively and intense wines that possess a truly distinctive character.
Hot sunny days during the growing season are tempered by ocean breezes that cool the vines and contribute to a long growing season. The geographically young, low fertility soils are mostly alluvial with some gravel that promotes rapid drainage. In other words, they are perfect for the Sauvignon Blanc variety.
Except for Malbec and Mendoza there are few wine regions as closely associated with one variety as Sauvignon Blanc is with Marlborough. There is some concern among Marlborough producers that the run away success of a single style of wine may eventually tire consumers. In response, certain producers are expanding their wine offerings to include more Pinot Noir, Chardonnay and Riesling.
In their short history, Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc wines have become some of the finest of their kind — competing with the historic Sauvignon Blanc wines of the Loire Valley in central France and the Sauvignon Blanc-Semillon blends of Bordeaux. Marlborough Sauvignon Blancs are perfect for summer because they offer a unique, exuberant freshness. The aromas and flavors of the wine typically include tropical fruit, gooseberry, lime, passion fruit and fresh grass that seemingly jump out of the glass and explode in the mouth. The pungency of Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc wines make them suitable companions to a wide variety of summer foods, including Chinese and Southeast Asian dishes with spice.
There are numerous fine Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc wines available in Shanghai, with some of my personal favorites made by Villa Maria, Saint Clair, Kim Crawford, Yealands Estate, Lawson’s Dry Hills, Giesen and Tiki.
The pure and unpretentious joy these wines provide makes them my number one pick for the Shanghai summer of 2016.
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