New eel bowl joint wriggles its way into Japanese dining scene
Print Edition
IF there’s anything Shanghai’s diners are lacking, it’s not Japanese cuisine. One doesn’t have to look far to find everything from fast-food-style sushi-train franchises and neighborhood izakayas, to all-you-can-eat buffets and ultra-high-end menus costing thousands of yuan per person.
One of the newest additions to the city’s already abundant Japanese food landscape is Unaju, which opened just weeks ago on Yuyuan Road. Like many similarly-sized Japanese restaurants, you might have missed this tiny treasure, which is marked by its sedate facade and a dining area big enough only for six or seven people.
The menu is even smaller. In fact, when the Shanghai Daily visited, there was only one dish on offer: unaju, 100 yuan (US$15.50).
At this point, a Japanese lesson is in order. When eel and rice is served in a round bowl, it’s called unadon. But when it’s served in a square lacquer box it becomes unaju.
Unaju specializes in the Kanto-style version of its namesake dish, which features eel that is first steamed and then grilled. Each order includes steamed rice topped with two chunky fillets of eel coated in grilling sauce, as well as standard miso soup and two side dishes.
Unaju does an admirable job of not letting the rich grilling sauce overpower the natural taste of the eel. Of course, those craving a richer flavor can always ask for more sauce.
The restaurant sources fresh eels every morning. These are steamed in advance and then grilled upon order. In the end, each sizzling fillet comes out wonderfully cooked, tender, juicy and flavorful. The skin is the best part, a further sign of top quality.
Some may find the portion size a bit small, but diners can always ask for more rice at no additional charge.
The service is also outstanding. Unaju is run by just two persons: a woman who serves customers and man in the kitchen preparing dishes. Both are Shanghainese.
After a warm greeting and a prompt pouring of tea, the friendly server chatted casually with diners.
This all added to the pleasant, home-like dining atmosphere. After the meal was over, the hostess kindly invited diners to sit and enjoy their tea for as long as they wanted.
Also available are Ooling tea and soft drinks for 15 yuan, and beer for 20 yuan.
To some, 100 yuan for such a small set might seem excessive. But when one considers that a high-quality bowl of eel-and-rice can easily cost 200 yuan in Shanghai, suddenly Unaju’s offerings seem like quite a bargain. Moreover, cheaper eel bowls that sell for 40 or 50 yuan in supermarkets don’t always use the freshest ingredients.
One important note, Unaju is only accepting cash at the moment. If you come unprepared, there’s an ATM next door.
Unaju
Tel: 5268-9958
Address: 580 Yuyuan Rd
Average per person: 100 yuan
Opening hours: 11am–2pm for lunch, 5:30pm–9pm for dinner, closed on Sundays
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