On the scent of tasty osmanthus dishes
By Austin Hu |
October 18, 2012, Thursday
|
Print Edition
Print Edition
SHANGHAI is a fickle mistress. Summers, for me at least, are the most trying times, by the time September and October roll around I have seemingly been sweating for nearly three months straight; I have personally fed entire colonies of mosquitoes.
But as if sensing my despair, Shanghai slowly begins to lift the sweltering haze and the glory that is autumn begins to take shape. Come October proper and I know that I have one more incredible indigenous treat still in store, the blooming of the osmanthus flowers, or guihua.
You never really know when it's going to happen. It will feel and look just like any other day in October. You will wake up, go through the motions of your morning ritual, completely oblivious to the natural wonder that is taking place right outside your window. It isn't until you step outside that you are exposed to the full glory that is a city full of osmanthus in full bloom at the same time.
Some liken the smell to peaches and apricots, others feel as if it has notes of citrus and spiced tea. Me? I prefer the description of a perfumist I came across while researching this piece. When asked how she would describe the scent of osmanthus she responded simply that, "it smells like happiness."
There are all manners of environmental variables that must fall into place before the elusive osmanthus blooms here in Shanghai. Something about consecutive days of at least a 5 degree temperature swing between day and night and a certain moisture level in the air.
Immaculate blooms aside, I also find osmanthus appealing for its culinary applications. It can be used simply in teas and with tangyuan (glutinous rice balls). A few sprinkles of the dried flowers can turn an otherwise mundane pot of tea into a perfumed ambrosia of fruit and flowers, the perfect concoction to be steaming out of your mug come the colder months.
Osmanthus can also be used to flavor all manners of other delicious edibles. There is of course the famed osmanthus cake - guihua gao - sweet, wobbly and delicately translucent. And there is an osmanthus wine that combines rice wine with guihua and sugar into a floral liqueur that I personally find irresistible in cocktails.
Somewhat more obscure but certainly no less tasty are the osmanthus jams, or guihua jiang, some sweet, some savory; a perfect addition to congees and assorted Chinese flatbreads. If you're anything like me though, you'll want to eat it on really plush toasted brioche with a wedge of sharp cheese.
It's certainly easy enough here in Shanghai to buy osmanthus products to use to your heart's delight. If given the choice though, I would suggest venturing out to make some of your own product with dried osmanthus. Here I've done two separate preparations and combined them into light fish dish perfect to open a meal with. Happiness never tasted so good.
Osmanthus syrup
Ingredients:
100ml water
100g sugar
50g dried osmanthus
Preparation:
1. Combine the three ingredients in a pot and heat over a medium flame, stirring so the sugar dissolves.
2. When all the sugar has dissolved, let the syrup cool and store in a cool dark space for at least 15 days.
3. Use the syrup in teas, ice creams, desserts, and sauces. The sauce will keep at least a month in the refrigerator.
Osmanthus oil
Ingredients:
200ml olive oil
50g dried osmanthus
Preparation:
1. Combine the ingredients and keep in a warm place for three days. Strain before using.
2. The oil can be used in place of extra virgin oil to finish dishes with an additional floral note or whisked into dressings and marinades for added flavor.
Poached tilefish with osmanthus sauce
Ingredients:
2 fillets of tilefish, with the skin removed (can also substitute snapper or any other white fish)
400ml water
50ml osmanthus syrup
50ml osmanthus oil
1 orange, halved, and juices
1 bunch thyme
2 shallots, peeled and halves
1 clove garlic, lightly crush
10ml lemon juice
1 T-chopped fine herbs
Salt and pepper
Preparation:
1. Season the fish with salt and pepper and set aside for 10 minutes.
2. Bring water, 40ml each of the syrup and oil, orange and juice, thyme, shallots and garlic to the boil, then reduce to the barest simmer. Season with salt and pepper
3. Place the two fillets gently into the pot and poach over a low heat until the fish is just cooked through - about 10 minutes, depending on thickness of the fish.
4. In a separate bowl, mix the remainder of the oil and syrup with the lemon juice and 10ml of the poaching liquid. Add herbs.
5. Garnish with a simple vegetable like zucchini. Spoon the sauce over the fish and vegetables. Consume immediately - and with great abandon!
But as if sensing my despair, Shanghai slowly begins to lift the sweltering haze and the glory that is autumn begins to take shape. Come October proper and I know that I have one more incredible indigenous treat still in store, the blooming of the osmanthus flowers, or guihua.
You never really know when it's going to happen. It will feel and look just like any other day in October. You will wake up, go through the motions of your morning ritual, completely oblivious to the natural wonder that is taking place right outside your window. It isn't until you step outside that you are exposed to the full glory that is a city full of osmanthus in full bloom at the same time.
Some liken the smell to peaches and apricots, others feel as if it has notes of citrus and spiced tea. Me? I prefer the description of a perfumist I came across while researching this piece. When asked how she would describe the scent of osmanthus she responded simply that, "it smells like happiness."
There are all manners of environmental variables that must fall into place before the elusive osmanthus blooms here in Shanghai. Something about consecutive days of at least a 5 degree temperature swing between day and night and a certain moisture level in the air.
Immaculate blooms aside, I also find osmanthus appealing for its culinary applications. It can be used simply in teas and with tangyuan (glutinous rice balls). A few sprinkles of the dried flowers can turn an otherwise mundane pot of tea into a perfumed ambrosia of fruit and flowers, the perfect concoction to be steaming out of your mug come the colder months.
Osmanthus can also be used to flavor all manners of other delicious edibles. There is of course the famed osmanthus cake - guihua gao - sweet, wobbly and delicately translucent. And there is an osmanthus wine that combines rice wine with guihua and sugar into a floral liqueur that I personally find irresistible in cocktails.
Somewhat more obscure but certainly no less tasty are the osmanthus jams, or guihua jiang, some sweet, some savory; a perfect addition to congees and assorted Chinese flatbreads. If you're anything like me though, you'll want to eat it on really plush toasted brioche with a wedge of sharp cheese.
It's certainly easy enough here in Shanghai to buy osmanthus products to use to your heart's delight. If given the choice though, I would suggest venturing out to make some of your own product with dried osmanthus. Here I've done two separate preparations and combined them into light fish dish perfect to open a meal with. Happiness never tasted so good.
Osmanthus syrup
Ingredients:
100ml water
100g sugar
50g dried osmanthus
Preparation:
1. Combine the three ingredients in a pot and heat over a medium flame, stirring so the sugar dissolves.
2. When all the sugar has dissolved, let the syrup cool and store in a cool dark space for at least 15 days.
3. Use the syrup in teas, ice creams, desserts, and sauces. The sauce will keep at least a month in the refrigerator.
Osmanthus oil
Ingredients:
200ml olive oil
50g dried osmanthus
Preparation:
1. Combine the ingredients and keep in a warm place for three days. Strain before using.
2. The oil can be used in place of extra virgin oil to finish dishes with an additional floral note or whisked into dressings and marinades for added flavor.
Poached tilefish with osmanthus sauce
Ingredients:
2 fillets of tilefish, with the skin removed (can also substitute snapper or any other white fish)
400ml water
50ml osmanthus syrup
50ml osmanthus oil
1 orange, halved, and juices
1 bunch thyme
2 shallots, peeled and halves
1 clove garlic, lightly crush
10ml lemon juice
1 T-chopped fine herbs
Salt and pepper
Preparation:
1. Season the fish with salt and pepper and set aside for 10 minutes.
2. Bring water, 40ml each of the syrup and oil, orange and juice, thyme, shallots and garlic to the boil, then reduce to the barest simmer. Season with salt and pepper
3. Place the two fillets gently into the pot and poach over a low heat until the fish is just cooked through - about 10 minutes, depending on thickness of the fish.
4. In a separate bowl, mix the remainder of the oil and syrup with the lemon juice and 10ml of the poaching liquid. Add herbs.
5. Garnish with a simple vegetable like zucchini. Spoon the sauce over the fish and vegetables. Consume immediately - and with great abandon!
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