Oysters are famous for two things, pearls and eating. It’s the latter that we’ll focus on in this week’s Ideal section. Eating oysters is by no means a recent phenomenon. Archeologists have found evidence in South Africa of humans consuming oysters some 160,000 years ago.

In all likelihood our pre-human ancestors consumed raw oysters fresh off the beach long before modern man appeared. By ancient Greek and Roman times these tasty shelled critters were considered a delicacy for special occasions.

Today almost every coastal nation produces and consumes these magnificent mollusks and few foods illicit such passion among gourmands. There exist good reasons why.

Oysters are delicious. Oysters can be eaten raw on the half shell, steamed, boiled, broiled, baked, stir-fried, deep-fried, smoked, boiled, stewed, pickled or can even be served as a drink. In every case their unique juicy, slightly salty and sea fresh flavors along with snappy tender textures make oysters one of our most delicious foods.

Oysters are healthy. Oysters are an excellent source of minerals including zinc, calcium and iron and are rich in Vitamins A and B. They are low in calories and high in protein making them a luxury diet food.

Oysters may be an aphrodisiac. Granted this is a bit more controversial but the belief that oysters stimulate the libido is a fun concept nonetheless. Recently Italian and American scientists collaborated on a study that found the abundant amino acids in oysters trigger increased levels of sex hormones and the high zinc content aids the production of testosterone.

Perhaps most important of all, oysters are wonderful companions to wine. A great man of the world once explained this relationship far better than I ever could.

In perhaps his most charming work, “A Moveable Feast,” which was published posthumously in 1964, Earnest Hemingway beautifully described the synergistic relationship between oysters and wine.

Hemmingway wrote, “As I ate the oysters with their strong taste of the sea and their faint metallic taste that the cold white wine washed away, leaving only the sea taste and the succulent texture, and as I drank their cold liquid from each shell and washed it down with the crisp taste of the wine, I lost the empty feeling and began to be happy and to make plans.”

The art of oyster appreciation also comes with its own preferred vernacular. When describing the beautiful liquid found in an oyster shell, one should say liquor but never juice. Like wines, raw oysters have complex flavors that vary depending on the variety and region.

Flavors may be described as salty, briny, metallic, buttery or even fruity while textures might be soft, fleshy or elastic. I’ve even heard oyster connoisseurs describe them as crisp on the palate. How wine like. But Hemmingway’s elegant prose aside, pairing oysters with wine isn’t easy.

Oysters and wine 101

There are a few things to keep in mind when pairing wine with oysters. You should consider what type of oysters you’re eating, how they’re prepared.

Different species of oysters vary in taste, texture and salinity and there are countless ways to cook them. Many sub species of oysters exist, but there are only five major species. These are the Pacific, Atlantic that include the Bluepoints, European Flats that include the Belon, Kumamoto and the tiny Olympia from the west coast of the Americas.

It’s also important to consider where and with whom you’re eating these delicacies. For example, when I’m in France with a French friend I’ll almost certainly choose Belon oysters with an acidic French wine but when in New Zealand accompanying a friend I’ll favor Bluff oysters with a local Sauvignon Blanc.

Many wine regions produce wines that pair nicely with oysters but in every case the wines should be nicely balanced with good acidity and preferably a healthy dose of minerality. Here are some of my favorite combinations.

Raw oysters

Arguably the best way to enjoy oysters is raw served on the half shell. It’s certainly the best way to enjoy the natural fresh flavors and original sea-fresh texture of this mollusk.

Purists often advocate eating oysters by themselves with no additional condiments or sauces but there’s absolutely nothing wrong with a splash of lemon or a properly prepared mignonette sauce. The later is a traditional French vinaigrette made of white or red wine vinegar, shallots and fresh black pepper.

Cocktail sauce made of ketchup, horseradish and spices is also a popular condiment. Raw oysters should be served with an acidic sparkling or white wine; think Champagne, Franciacorta, Prosecco for sparklers and young Muscadet, Sauvignon Blanc or unoaked Chardonnay for whites. Any of these combinations will provide you with a remarkably satisfying quintessential oyster and wine experience.

Cooked classics

This malleable mollusk can be prepared in many ways, but there exist a few classic oyster dishes that are particularly masterful with wines.

One of my favorites is Oysters Rockefeller, a dish first prepared at the end of the 19th century by chef Jules Alciatore of Antoine’s Restaurant in New Orleans. Legend has it the dish was so richly flavored that Chef Jules insisted it be named after the richest man of the era, John D. Rockefeller.

The original recipe had far more parsley than spinach but the opposite is true today, so I suggest wines better suited to modern interpretation. My favorite wine with this dish is Chablis as it offers all the requisite freshness along with rich flavors.

Another oyster dish is Oysters Kirkpatrick. Most likely the earliest version of this dish was first made in England but credit for the origin goes to chef Ernest Arbogast of the Palm Court Restaurant of San Francisco’s Palace Hotel. Sometime before the WWI he named his creation after hotel manager Colonel John C. Kirkpatrick.

In this dish bacon is finely chopped and sautéed until crisp then combined with seasoned bread crumbs that are added to oysters.

Everything is grilled on the shell and then served with a double cream and Worcestershire sauce.

The combination of fatty bacon and rich sauce means only a hearty white will do. New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc or lightly oaked Australian Chardonnays are fine companions and because of the bacon even an acidic young Pinot Noir, Gamay or Barbera work well.

New England means lots of clam chowder and oyster stew. Old school oyster stew is made with heavy cream, shallots, garlic, black pepper and drawn butter. This part stew, part soup dish is a meal unto itself and is particularly satiating when the weather turns chilly. I’d suggest a Rhone Viognier or Gavi white from Piedmont Italy.

Delicious oyster dishes aren’t exclusively the domain of Western cuisines; some of the most delicious preparations come from Fujian and Taiwan. The oyster omelet combines eggs, baby oysters and basil with a sweet and sour sauce. The complex flavors need a versatile wine. My pick would be a New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc from Marlborough. The powerful and zesty flavors of the wine are not overwhelmed by the equally flavorful omelet and sauce while the wine still has the needed acidity to wake up the best and most fresh flavors of the oysters.

Deep fried lightly battered oysters are another mouth watering specialty of Fujian and Taiwan. Crunchy outside while moist and tender inside, the natural fresh flavors of the oyster literally burst forth in your mouth. These little critters absolutely beg for a crisp white wine to assuage the greasiness and accentuate the oysters’ natural flavor. Acidic whites like Albarino from Northeastern Spain and Vermentino make nice matches.

Shanghai solutions

Our cosmopolitan city has much to offer in terms of tasty oysters and wine combinations. Personally I never eat oysters, especially raw oysters, unless I completely trust the establishment.

Therefore my recommendations include only a few of the best restaurants in town.

One of my favorite steakhouse jaunts is Shanghai Slims and when the season permits Manager David Begg is always sure to have a selection of fresh imported oysters and a suitable wine recommendation.

Presently they’re featuring the famous French Fine de Claire oysters from Brittany that are renowned for their elegant salty and creamy flavors paired with William Fevre Petit Chablis.

This is a thoroughly Gaulic combination not to be missed.

Shanghai Slims also has the hard-to-find, super dry Muscadet wines on the wine list. Fat and minerally Pacific rock oysters are available on the half shell and Begg suggests pairing them with the Martin Codax Albarino white from Rias Byass in Northwestern Spain. I couldn’t agree more.

Finally, Slims is one of the few places where you can find traditionally prepared Oysters Rockefeller.

Celebrity chef Bradley Turley of Goga and Hai by Goga only carries oysters when they’re at their freshest and he’s told me they’ll be on the menu soon.

Whether its Atlantic or Pacific oysters, Turley favors a steely Chardonnay or a South African Chenin Blanc.

Fresh oysters can also be found at many of our city’s nightspots. Fashionable Spanish el Coctel offers Fine de Claire oysters on the half shell. Manager Borja Otero suggests Anna Codorniu CAVA sparkling wine or Pazo de Senorans Albarino white to accompany your oysters.

All these fine establishments make it easy and delicious to enjoy your favorite oysters along with a great bottle of sparkling or white wine. Autumn rarely tastes better in Shanghai.

Region & Style at a glance

Varieties:

Sauvignon Blanc is the most important grape in Marlborough with Pinot Noir the second most planted variety.

Key Term:

Zesty and exuberant are two popular words used to describe the explosively lively nature of Marlborough Sauvignon Blancs.