Pairing delectable hairy crabs with fine spirits
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MY hairy crab baptismal was in Hong Kong in the mid 1980s when a shipment of particularly prized Yangcheng lake crabs arrived and a local wine connoisseur friend insisted I taste them. I was immediately enamored by the sweet delicate flesh and intense pungency of the meat and roe. My experience was made even more delightful by a bone dry Chablis we enjoyed with the hairy crabs. I’ve been a huge fan ever since.
The male crabs with their abundant meat and female crabs with their roe have their own particular attractive qualities that are both embellished by the right wine. I usually favor a male crab with a high-quality fresh white wine like a Chablis, Albarino or top Sauvignon Blanc; while I prefer female crabs with sparkling wines as the bubbles and acidity cleanse the palate and help you digest the rich roe. Manzanilla and Fino Sherries go equally well with male and female crabs. But the aforementioned wines are rather obvious and easy choices, so this year I’m disposed to go in different directions.
Sometimes abiding by the wise words of literary great Robert Frost who wrote in his 1916 poem, The Road Not Taken, “Two roads diverged in a wood, and I took the one less traveled by, and that has made all the difference.” This passage can also be applied to pairing drinks with hairy crabs.
One way to be different this year is to eschew wines and go with liquors. My recent trip to Mexico has resulted in a new love affair with premium Tequilas and other mescal liquors. When choosing a Tequila to pair with hairy crab I counsel going with the unaged Bianco or Joven Tequila as the attractive fresh natural and exuberant qualities of the agave plant are most apparent. These lighter Tequilas awaken the freshness of the crabs while highlighting their most desirable flavors and also cleansing the palate. I’d advise avoiding colored or aged Tequilas as they lack the fresh qualities that accentuate the best attributes of the crabs.
Another pleasant liquor companion to hairy crabs is single malt whiskies. Single malt whiskies like quality wines have important regional distinctions. So this begs the question, which style of single malt pairs best with hairy crabs?
While I absolutely adore macho Island single malts like Talisker 10, 18 and 25 Year Old whiskies, they are too overt and strongly flavored for the more subtle flavors of the crab meat and roe. Personally I feel that these whiskies are best enjoyed as a reflective digestive after your meal. I’ve had much more success with complex Speyside single malts like The Glenlivet 12 and 18 Year Old as the combination of fruity and floral qualities with vanilla hints work beautifully with the crabs.
Two Northern Highland whiskies also pair beautifully with hairy crabs. The Singleton of Glen Ord 12 or 18 Year Old whiskies with their slightly sweet stewed fruit, toffee and almond flavors combine very nicely with the delicate flesh and sweet pungency of the crab. Likewise, the Glenmorangie Lasanta whisky that spends 10 years in Bourbon casks and is finished two years in Sherry barrels and features creamy Sherry and nutty qualities wonderfully accentuates the fresh and savory flavors of the crab.
Another benefit of pairing single malts with hairy crabs is that whisky is not particularly sensitive to the vinegar dipping sauce. With white wines one must be careful to go light on the vinegar sauce as the two often clash in the palate. The strength and intensity of single malts carves right through the acidic vinegar acting as a cohort in embellishing the natural flavors of the crab. Other fine liquor partners to hairy crab are light and fragrant styles of Chinese baijiu, well-chilled premium vodkas and gins.
Let’s face it, hairy crabs usually only comprise part of meal and there are usually a host of other dishes including meats that adorn your table. In this case you may choose a red wine. I assure you that it can be successfully done, as long as you’re selective.
The basic qualities of a wine that make it suitable for fish dishes are fruitiness and acidity. The fruitiness tends to accentuate and complement the flavors of the fish while the acidity in the wine cleanses the mouth much in the same way that lemon does when sprinkled on fish. Qualities found in wines that we want to avoid when paring with fish are iron and strong tannins. High in iron, tannic or structured wines overpower the delicacy of fish.
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