Unlike most Western desserts that usually backend an eating session, Chinese sweets may pop up at any time during a meal or be enjoyed as a snack. The ideal wines to augment sweet Chinese delicacies should combine a level of sweetness to mirror the sweet flavors of the treats while also packing a healthy dose of acidity to offset the heaviness of the pastries or stickiness of the gluttonous rice wrappings. Many sweet wines accomplish this but the best companions may well be rotten wines, specifically the incomparable sweet wines of Sauternes and Tokaji.

Sauternes

Sauternes is in the southern region of the left bank of Bordeaux and is one of the few wine regions in the world where a combination of factors often leads to grapes being affected by Botrytis Cinerea, more affectionately known as noble rot. This rather disgusting sounding and looking fungus actually plays a critical role in making some of the world’s greatest sweet wines.

Sauternes like most of Bordeaux enjoys a maritime climate with two rivers boarding and intersecting the region. The warmer waters of the Garonne River that flow to the Atlantic and its tributary Ciron River that has cooler waters from its spring water source interact to form a mist that envelops the vines of Sauternes. When the sun rises it dissipates the moisture-coated grapes helping to activate dormant spores of the Botrytis Cinerea fungus. The variety most prone to noble rot is Semillon and therefore its no surprise that this white wine grape is the biggest contributor to Sauternes blends. Sauvignon plays an important supporting role and the sweet variety Muscadelle is sometimes added in small quantities. When these varieties experience noble rot the result is wines with dramatic sweet apricot, peach and honey flavors that still have a good dose of acidity that prevents them from being cloyingly sweet.

In fact, until the 18th century many Sauternes winemakers kept the process secret from consumers thinking the idea of a fungus infected grape wine would be distasteful to many. By the late 18th century the sweet wines of Sauternes had won acclaim and fans worldwide including the first President of the United States, George Washington, who upon tasting Chateau d’Yquem for the first time promptly ordered 50 cases. Thomas Jefferson and Ben Franklin, who both spent considerable time in France, were known to also favor the nectar like sweet wines of Sauternes.

Except for the incomparable Chateau d’Yquem, the one and only Premier Cru Superieur that commands an exorbitant price, many excellent Sauternes wines are available in the 500 yuan (US$78.50) to 1,500 yuan price range. I highly recommend the Premier Crus Chateaux Climens, de Rayne Vigneau, La Tour-Blance, Suduiraut and Coutet as well as the Duexiemes Crus Chateaux d’Arche, Caillon, Fihot and Nairac. Big Bordeaux brands like Mouton, Ginestet, and Bernard Magrez also make drinkable Sauternes sourced from contracted chateaux in Sauternes that are less expensive but still nice.

Tokaji

What’s the most underappreciated and least understood great wine in the China market? One great answer is Tokaji. Though Sauternes is arguably the world’s most famous noble rot sweet wine; the Tokaji region in northeastern Hungry made Botrytis Cinerea Tokaji sweet wines centuries before the winemakers of Bordeaux. A collection of Tokaji wines dating back to the 1571 vintage was recently discovered. In 1730 the region became the world’s first classified appellation for making wine, predating the classification Port wines and over 120 years before Bordeaux was classified. The Sun King, Louis XIV of France famously stated that the sweet wines of Tokaji were, “Vinum Regum, Rex Vinorum” or the wine of kings and the king of wines. Musical geniuses like Beethoven, Schubert and Strauss were also big fans. Today, Tokaji wines are so treasured and beloved in Hungary that they are even mentioned in the national anthem.

The principal grape in Tokaji wines is Furmint, a late ripening variety that’s prone to noble rot. In descending roles of importance Harslevelu, Sarga Muskotaly, Koverszolo, Zeta and Kabar grapes may also contribute to the blend. The two must-know styles of Tokaji sweet wines are Aszu and Eszencia. Aszu wines are rated according to residual sugar or sweetness from 1 to 6 puttonyos. In particular, the concentrated 5 and 6 puttonyos wines provide a sublime sweet drinking experience with seductive honeyed apricot, pineapple and lychee fruit flavors with spicy ginger and nutmeg notes. As with Sauternes wines, the acidity in Tokaji wines provides balance and prevents a palate killing sweet overload.

The Tokaji Eszencia wines are unique. Even sweeter than a 6 puttonyos Aszu wine, these wines are made from the free run juice of botrytised grapes resulting in one of the world’s sweetest wines. Lower in alcohol than Aszu wines, Eszencia wines are replete with syrupy honey and candied fruit flavors. Tokaji producers to look for in Shanghai include Oremus, Chateau Pajzos, Doboago and Royal Tokaji.

Delightful combinations

Hopefully I’ve sweetened you palate by describing the attributes of two of the world’s greatest sweet wines and proffering that they pair beautifully with Chinese desserts. But exactly which Chinese sweet treats are best with these rotten wines?

Lei sha yuan or gluttonous rice balls coated in red bean powder are a classic Shanghai treat. These tasty morsels reach new flavor heights when enjoyed with a Sauternes wine as the rich fruitiness of the wine adds flavor dimensions while the acidity facilitates digestion. In a similar fashion, the flavors of the popular pine nut cake are embellished by the multi-layered sophisticated flavors of Sauternes wines. Cantonese almond tofu is a popular Chinese sweet that benefits from the sweet yet clean flavors of Tokaji wines. In this case I suggest a 3 or 4 puttonyos Tokaji as these lighter sweet wines have lower viscosity and won’t overwhelm the delicate texture and consistency of the tofu. For something heavier I suggest enjoying the classic Cantonese custard tart or bun with a 6 puttonyos Tokaji. Here sweet and creamy encounters sweet and fresh while the freshness of wine nicely contrasts the rich custard.

A particularly hedonistic experience is when white sugar cake meets the marvelously sweet and lusciously textured Tokaji Eszencia. This super experience of sweetness is ideal for people with an exceptionally protuberant sweet tooth.

Where to buy in Shanghai

Region & Style at a glance

Varieties:

The most important grape in Sauternes is Sémillon, with Sauvignon Blanc and occasionally Muscadelle playing supporting roles.

Key Term:

Botrytis cinerea is a beneficial mold that shrivels the grapes and gives Sauternes sweet wines a unique character.