WHEN one head of state hosts another head of state or head of government, we call it a state banquet. While I’ve never been involved with an official state banquet, I’ve had the opportunity to oversee wine selection and service for dinners attended by heads of state and other senior government leaders. It’s a fun though somewhat nerve-racking experience.

In days past, state dinners were often occasions where some of the world’s greatest and most prestigious wines were served. Today, they tend to be carefully scripted events that emphasize protocol and expediency over the actual wining and dining experience.

Let’s take a look at some of the protocol and wines served at state dinners around the world.

Britain

For pomp and circumstance, few match the British. At least twice a year Queen Elizabeth II holds state banquets in honor of visiting heads of state.

These rarefied events were usually held at Buckingham Palace in the center of London, but recently the queen has also held them at Windsor Castle.

Regardless of the location, they are among the most intricate and protocol-oriented events held anywhere. Colorfully named key players include the royal chef, royal florist, palace steward, royal household wine committee, yeoman of the royal cellars, yeoman of china and glass pantries and queen’s piper, among others.

Elaborately designed menus that are always in French, the acknowledged language of gastronomy, adore the table along with the Queen’s china and six crystal glasses; two for Champagne and one each for water, red, white and sweet wine.

At Buckingham Palace, table napkins are carefully folded into the Dutch-bonnet style, while at Winsor Castle the Prince of Wales feathers form is preferred. Each napkin is hand-folded by the yeoman of china and glass pantries himself.

Wines selected by the royal household wine committee and yeoman of the royal cellars must be approved by the queen.

Though not quite as grand as in days past, the queen’s wine cellars are still formidable in variety and quality.

Wines served at big receptions may include a non-vintage Champagne, New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc and rather basic Bordeaux. At particularly important state banquets, more prestigious wines are featured.

When the former French President Sarkozy and Carla Bruni dined with the Queen, they were honored with Krug Champagne and 1961 Chateau Margaux.

For all the elaborate preparation and loftiness, modern state dinners hosted by the queen are rather expeditious affairs. Once the Queen and Prince Philip start eating, the guests all follow; likewise when the queen finishes her plate, the plates of all guest are promptly removed.

Not known to dilly dally, individual courses and the whole meal move at a remarkably rapid rate. But the British are not alone in the alacrity of their state dinners.

The USA

State dinners held at the White House are not as elaborate as those in Britain, but they are still intricate affairs that proceed at a similarly alarming pace. The normal 3- to 4-course meal usually lasts a mere 55 to 70 minutes. This is quite a shame as White House chef Cris Comerford and his staff are known to prepare quite memorable dishes.

The rapidity of the state banquets at the White House isn’t the only compromise made to modern norms; the breadth and quality of featured wines has also suffered.

Unlike the British, who are free to choose wines from around the world, since President Johnson state dinners at the White House use only US wines.

Granted the US has an increasing number of excellent and even some great wines, but political expediency and a recent dearth of wine-loving presidents has led to a wine recession at the White House. Ronald Reagan enjoyed wine but the last president to really know something about wines was Nixon.

The last time the Obama White House actually tried to impress with wines was the 2011 state dinner for then Chinese President Hu Jintao when the impressive 2005 Quilceda Creek Cabernet Sauvignon was served.

Certain Republican adversaries and the media were quick to admonish the president for serving a US$400 bottle of wine.

As with many of their opinions, they were far from accurate. When the White House procured the Quilceda Creek wine, the cost was little over US$100 but after Robert Parker scored the wine 100 points, the price predictably shot up.

Not surprisingly, wines served at more recent state dinners have been far more modest. Furthermore, officials no longer release information on the wines served. Unlike the past, we now only learn of the featured wines from attendees who care to share this privy information.

Recently when it was learned that French President Hollande was served good but hardly impressive wines, many of the same adversarial politicians and media were again critical, this time because the wines weren’t good enough.

It seems that choosing wines at the White House is a no-win situation. Personally, I believe these uninformed criticisms are more a reflection of the sad state of partisan politics in the states than any real knowledge or care about wines.

As a US citizen, I find it difficult to trust most politicians on even trivial matters, so I’m certainly not about to listen to them on important matters like wine.

China

I must admit to knowing less about the organization and dishes served at state banquets in China, but I do know a little about the wines served.

Years ago only the most prestigious China liquors like Moutai took center stage but more recently domestic white, red and even sparkling wines have adorned these prestigious tables.

According to sources, Great Wall Sun God Reserve Riesling whites and Syrah Special Reserve reds are often featured along with wines from some smaller family-owned producers.

Getting back to Richard Nixon. Before leaving China on his historic trip in 1972, he was credited with the less-than-diplomatic comment to then Premier Zhou Enlai, “China is good, but lacks fashionable women and wines.”

If he were alive today, I’m sure he’d be rather impressed by the growing quality of Chinese wines and even more impressed by the amazingly stylish women walking the streets of Shanghai.