MILD, flavorful Taiwanese cooking draws from many sources and is famous for three cup chicken, oyster omelet, beef noodles and lots of pineapple. Zhang Qian checks out city eateries.

Taiwan cuisine is heavily influenced by the cuisines of other parts of China, especially Fujian Province, by its own ethnic minorities and by the food of Japan and the Netherlands, which ruled the island for years.

The food is generally mild, also influenced by Hakka and Guangdong cooking. It is a bit spicier than cooking in northern China but far less spicy than Sichuan fare.

Taiwan cooks have added their own twist to many dishes and developed their own, such as san bei ji or three cup chicken and oyster omelet. Beef noodles are famous and every year there's a beef noodle festival.

Taiwan cooking is often described as clear, light, tasty and mellow; sometimes flavors are quite bold. There are lots of broth, noodles, seafood and sweet-and-sour taste with pineapple.

It's relatively simple and rustic cooking makes the best use of naturally abundant ingredients. Preparation is also far less elaborate than Cantonese and Shanghainese fare.

A small island, Taiwan relies heavily on the sea for essential protein including fish, crabs, oysters and other sea animals.

With limited flat land for rice growing, sweet potatoes and taro root were often used in old times and made into soupy gruel, a kind of congee with various root vegetables. Taro and rice noodle soup is one of the most popular dishes today.

In addition to standard seasonings like soy sauce, rice wine, sesame, chili, black beans and so on, parsley and basil jiu ceng ta (literally "nine-story tower") are often used for seasoning. The story goes that an emperor was once marooned by flooding in a nine-story pagoda and found basil growing on the roof. It kept him alive and it was delicious.

One of the best-known dishes is three cup chicken. The story goes that it was cooked for a day at low heat in an earthen pot containing one cup each of soy sauce, rice wine and sesame oil - plus basil. By the end of the day it had simmered into a flavorful stew eaten with rice or congee. Frog and other meat can be substituted for chicken.

Sweet and sour is common in Taiwan cooking, possibly because of the hot and damp climate where people used those tastes to pique their appetite. Pineapple pieces are commonly found in Taiwan dishes.

Salted vegetables and pickles are common, often as a side dish, sometime as flavoring, as in the famous cai pu dan or egg with pickle.

Din Tai Fung 鼎泰丰

Cuisine: Xiaolongbao (steamed dumplings with meat fillings), snacks and Taiwan cuisine

Ambience: Roomy, bright and quiet, very unlike typical snack restaurants. There are seven outlets in Shanghai, all have the same decor - bright and airy, paintings of celebrities who have visited.

Who to invite: Family, friends

Pros: Tasty food, pleasing environment, good service, menu in both Chinese and English.

Cons: It's much more expensive than other snack restaurants; there's a service charge. The menu is quite simple, without much choice apart from traditional Chinese snacks. Portions are small.

Recommended: All the xiaolongbao are good.

Dandan noodles with peppery sauce and dumpling with shrimp fillings are popular.

Don't order: No qualms about food but remember the high price, limited choice and small portions.

Drinks: Soft drinks, tea, beer

Cost: 100-250 per person

Address: 3/F, 168 Lujiazui Rd W., Pudong

Tel: 5047-8883

Bellagio Cuisine 鹿港小镇

Cuisine: Stylish, authentic Taiwan food

Ambience: There are quite a few branches in Shanghai; this one is on a quiet corner near Xintiandi. It has French windows and mirrors that make the interior seem larger. White, black and red are the three main decorating colors, creating a warm atmosphere.

Most tables are quite close to each other, but metal curtains create some privacy.

Who to invite: 3-4 friends, girlfriend or boyfriend

Pros: Food is very tasty, staff is well-trained, service is good. Menus in both Chinese and English are well illustrated. Portions are small, making it easy to order a wide selection. Wifi is available and most credit cards are accepted.

Cons: Long waits. It is so popular that diners often must wait for tables at meal time.

Recommended: Three cup chicken is a must in any Taiwanese restaurant. Pineapple, shrimp and deep-fried dough sticks are popular. Chewy shrimp is wrapped in crispy deep-fried dough, pineapple adds a sweet and sour flavor. Steamed rice with red-cooked pork is recommended. Shaved ice in different flavors is a favorite, especially mango, peanut and complex flavors. Ice is shaved really fine so that it melts in the mouth.

Don't order: The oyster omelet may be a bit too fishy for some people.

Drinks: tea, soft drinks, beer and wine

Cost: 80-150 yuan per person

Address: 68 Taicang Rd

Tel: 6386-5701

The Mountain 半山小馆

Cuisine: Taiwan food

Ambience: Dim lighting, stylish atmosphere. Many many photographs on the walls.

Who to invite: 3-4 friends, girlfriend or boyfriend

Pros: Dishes flavorful, menus in both Chinese and English. Discount for using China Merchant's Bank credit card.

Cons: Limited seating, waiting sometimes necessary.

Recommended: Oil-showered perch has a light taste; it's served on a plate kept warm by a candle. Pineapple-fried rice is popular; rice is fried together with pineapple, green beans, shrimp and pieces of meat and served in a hollowed-out half pineapple. Super Mango dessert consists of mango pudding, mango ice cream and a pice of mango.

Don't order: Omelet with pickle tastes quite plain and is probably too greasy for some people.

Drinks: tea, soft drinks, beer and wine

Cost: 80-120 yuan per person

Address: 6/F, 818 Nanjing Rd W.

Tel: 3223-0277

Chamate一茶一坐

Cuisine: Afternoon tea, Taiwan snacks and cuisine

Ambience: Relaxing atmosphere, relatively roomy and bright with comfortable light green-colored sofas. Quiet most of the time.

Who to invite: Friends and business partners

Pros: Many choices for tea, snacks and dessert. Menu in both English and Chinese. Wifi available.

Cons: Though there are set meal choices, it's not recommended for formal dinners.

Recommended: Various teas, both hot and cold. Fried pieces of chicken, pudding and cakes are popular.

Don't order: Beef with barbecue sauce may be too salty for some people.

Drinks: tea and soft drinks

Cost: 50-100 per person

Address: 2/F, 996 Nanjing Rd W.

Tel: 6217-0492