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February 16, 2017

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Top Napa wines paired with great names

ISACS is the founder and CEO of EnjoyGourmet, a leading gourmet digital (www.enjoygourmet.com.cn) and print media company in China. He has authored over a dozen wine and food books including the awarded ISACS Guides and other gourmet books and is a wine consultant to governments, wine regions and organizations. He also hosts wine events for leading organizations and companies throughout China. Contact John via jcolumn@enjoygourmet.com.

Today’s iDeal section introduces several of China’s signature dishes that are named after famous people. The savory Dongpo pork dish from Hangzhou carries the name of poet and philosopher Su Dongpo of the Song Dynasty, while Cao Cao Chicken commemorates General Cao Cao of the Wei Kingdom. Sichuan favorite Mapo tofu is allegedly named after the originator of the dish, a woman with pockmarked face who first served the dish at a small roadside restaurant over a century ago. She may not have been as eminent as the esteemed poet and general, but her dish is every bit as tasty.

Western cuisines likewise feature dishes named after historic figures. Pizza Margarita is named after Queen Magarita of Savoy, who was presented with a pizza in the colors of the Italian flag during her visit to Naples in 1889. Since her first bite and subsequent satisfied smile the pizza has carried her name. The decadent dish Oysters Rockefeller commemorates the US robber baron John D. Rockefeller, while Beef Wellington honors the Anglo-Irish soldier and statesman the Duke of Wellington who defeated Napoleon at the Battle of Waterloo in 1815.

Wines are named also after famous figures. The incomparable Saint Emilion wine Chateau Ausone carries the name of Roman poet and philosopher Ausonius (310-395 AD) and the prestige cuvee Champagne Dom Perignon refers to a monk cellar master who helped perfect the process of making sparkling wines in the 17th century. One of my favorite historical figures, Winston Churchill has a Champagne named after him, the predominantly Pinot Noir vintage Pol Roger Cuvee Sir Winston Churchill. Like Sir Winston, this is a bold and audacious wine.

Wines named after more contemporary figures have a less impressive track record. Names like Elvis Presley, Barry Manilow, Celine Dion and Mariah Carey have adorned the labels of several overpriced, mediocre wines. One film star who has truly put his heart into the wine business is Gerard Depardieu who is a partner in a Loire Valley winery.

Sports stars, especially golfers have a better record of wine success than singers. Greg Norman’s Aussie wines are eminently drinkable, while Ernie Els has a joint venture in South Africa that makes good Bordeaux-blend-style red wines. Wine regions around the world have wines named after celebrities, but one distinguished region in California has more than its fair share.

New World wonders

About an hour drive out of San Francisco is one of the world’s premier wine regions. The region features a majestic landscape with rolling hills and mountains warmed by intense sunlight that’s tempered by cool and moist evening breezes emanating from the Pacific Ocean. Napa Valley is actually quite small, only 30 miles long and a few miles wide. What Napa lacks in size it makes up for in reputation.

Napa Valley was the first New World wine region to make wines that could compete with the best of the Old World. In the now famous Paris Judgement in 1976, Napa wines took on the best wines of Bordeaux and Burgundy and even featuring a panel of French judges beat several of France’s most acclaimed wines. It would be naive and inaccurate to claim that Napa Valley wines are superior to the best French wines, but this event and subsequent competitions does indicate that Napa Valley wines are among the best in the world.

There are approximately 500 wineries in Napa Valley that make wines of exceptionally high quality. It’s a truism in the valley to say that it’s awfully hard to find a bad Napa wine. Most consider Cabernet Sauvignon to be the best red varietal in the region though excellent Merlot, Pinot Noir and Zinfandels are also made. Though still miniscule in production, I also recommend single variety Cabernet Franc wines. Chardonnay is by far the most planted white variety and makes the best white wines but Napa Valley Sauvignon Blanc, Pinot Gris and Viognier whites are also developing a loyal following of wine loving fans.

The list of celebrities involved in making or marketing Napa Valley wines is quite impressive. Director Francis Ford Coppola purchased his Napa winery in the late 1970s and built it into one of the region’s most recognizable brands.

Since 1985 one producer has been making wines under the brand Napa’s Marilyn Wines. Yes, this refers to the film and beauty icon Marilyn Monroe and the winery offers a range of wines under the catchy names Sauvignon Blond and Marilyn Merlot.

Shanghai’s tallest celebrity sports star has a winery named Yao Ming Family Wines, while other famous athletes with Napa roots include former Mets Hall of Fame pictures Tom Seaver, race car legend Mario Andretti and golfer Luke Donald.

I grant you that several of the Napa Valley celebrity wines are quite good but as true wine lovers you’d be seriously remiss if you didn’t also try the wines of superior Napa producers. In my heart and on my palate, names like Beringer Vineyards, Beaulieu Vineyard, Joseph Phelps, Stag’s Leap Wine Cellars and Heitz are the real superstars.

Where to buy in Shanghai

Varieties:

Napa Valley first built a reputation for big, bold and often quite oaky Cabernet Sauvignon and Chardonnay wines; today the best wines tend to be less oaky, more balanced and often comprise other varieties like Merlot, Zinfandel and Pinot Noir and Sauvignon Blanc..

Key term:

Napa Valley became the first AVA, American Viticultural Area, in 1981.




 

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