TRUFFLES, a strong-smelling underground fungus that resembles a rough-skinned potato, is coveted by gourmands and truffle fanciers. It has a pungent, earthy aroma and flavor, often described as òseductive.ó

Because of its rarity, truffle is known as the òdiamond in the kitchen,ó and it may be black or white. Black is usually richer and earthier.

Though there are many species of truffles, the so-called fruiting body of the genus tuber is prized in French, northern Italian, Spanish, Greek and international haute cuisine.

Last year, at the famous Alba (Italy) White Truffle Auction, a truffle weighing 1.25 grams was sold for 98,000 euros (US$113,611).

òIt?s one of a few ingredients inspiring a chef with its unique aroma and taste,ó says Jack Ye, consultant chef of Teppanyaki at Sunrise On The Bund, who has been cooking and sourcing the black diamonds for more than 20 years.

Truffles' mycelium, the network of filaments, has a particular symbiotic relationship with the environment, especially the roots of trees such as cypress and oak. Moderate humidity, warm temperatures, well-drained soil of neutral pH are desirable.

Although truffles are found in special conditions in many countries around the world, the Perigord region of southwest France is the most famous for its quality black truffles. Alba in northwest Italy is known for its white truffles.

But Chinese truffles are being discovered and appreciated. There are several types, primarily found in Yunnan Province, Sichuan Province, Tibetan autonomous areas and the Xinjiang Uygur Autonomous Region.

Yunnan is becoming magnet for black winter truffle (tuber sinensis, also called tuber indicum) because of its quality and affordable price. They are often exported.

Another excellent Chinese truffle is tuber himalyensis, which is so much like the world-class tuber melanosporum that a microscope is needed to differentiate them. It is found in Yunnan, Tibet Autonomous Region and parts of Sichuan Province. It is less common on the market than tuber sinensis. A third type of Chinese truffle is the summer white truffle that does not yet have a scientific name.

"Besides Yunnan, small amounts of while truffle can be found in a small area in Xinjiang. It is my new discovery," says Ye. "The smell is similar to that of French truffles."

The aroma is intense, complex and difficult to describe.

Diners and chefs variously described the aroma of truffles with humid wood, soil after rain, raw gasoline, nuts and musk.

Alexander Dumas, who wrote "The Three Muskateers," call it an aphrodisiac, saying its aroma can "on certain occasions, make women more tender and men more lovable."

Truffles are typically hunted with trained female pigs or trained dogs that can detect the small of mature truffles, which release a smell compared with male hormones. On discovering a truffle, a female pig becomes excited, digs the ground and tries to devour the fungus. Many hunters prefer using dogs since they do less damage and are easier to restrain.

In European cooking, truffles are used to increase aroma and flavor, as a final topping. Some chefs use it as the main ingredient in sauce due to its deep, seductive flavor.

"Truffles can be a simple topping or a key ingredient. My philosophy is to preserve the aroma and highlight the flavor," says Ye. He prefers light ingredients such as seafood and eggs, saying ingredients with strong tastes may obscure the truffle's natural flavor.

"Although truffle itself has strong fragrance and flavor, I rarely use it as a main ingredient but freshly shave it and top the dish with it," says Albert Thony, executive chef at Shanghai Marriott Hotel Changfeng Park.

If conditions permit, he prefers using white truffle, which has a stronger aroma and fresher taste, which can be perfect to accompany poached eggs and pasta, he says.

To order truffle menu at Marriott, reservation is required at least one day in advance.

Ye recently launched a six-course teppanyaki set menu featuring truffle (1,680 yuan plus 15-percent service charge). It combines classical French preparation with Asian ingredients. It begins with pumpkin soup with truffle cream and finishes with truffle souffle.

Eggs en Cocotte, the second dish, is a combination of raw egg yolk, milk and cheese placed in a hollow egg shell with a hole on the top. The egg brings out the creamy taste of truffle, which has a long aftertaste.

Fresh king prawn, the main course, uses a truffle sauce made with white wine, milk and a little wasabi. The prawns have a tender texture and natural sweetness that contrasts with the truffle that's a bit crispy. The truffle flavor is highlighted while the wine and wasabi give complexity to the dish.

Teppanyaki, a Japanese dining style, is suitable for tasting truffle dishes as guests sit around a grill and watch the chef slice the truffles and enjoy the wafting aroma, which whets the appetite.

Risotto with black truffle (98 yuan plus 15-percent service charge) is one of Thony's signature dishes and it gives off a warm, hearty truffle fragrance as well as a moderate milky aroma from butter and Parmesan cheese. Risotto is slightly crunchy yet creamy, with the truffle on top; a little crispness gives the rice more layers of texture. Cheese, which is creamy and a little fatty, goes well with distinctively earthy truffles.

Thony recommends pairing his truffle dish with a glass of red wine, which improves the whole tasting experience.



Zan Teppanyaki

Sunrise On The Bund

Hours: 11am-2pm, 5-9pm

Address: 168 Gaoyang Rd

Tel: 5558-9999

DOME

Shanghai Marriott Hotel Changfeng Park

Hours: 6-10:30pm

Address: B1, 158 Daduhe Rd

Tel: 2215-6850


Most of the truffles in Shanghai are from Yunnan Province.

The most common in Shanghai high-end markets are black truffles, since white truffles are more rare and expensive.

Black truffles smell like wet wood and have a crisp texture, while white truffles have an aroma somewhat like garlic and a melt-in-the-mouth texture.

Black truffle produced from May to December is called summer truffle because of its intense aroma, higher quality and comparatively lower price. Black truffles harvested from January to March are known as winter truffles, which have a lighter aroma, taste and higher price.

Wine pairing depends on the truffle dish and diner?s preference. If earthy, flavorful, musky truffle is the centerpiece, then a full-bodied red wine is recommended. White wine goes well with white truffle and vintage Champage goes well with luxury-type white truffles.