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Week in heaven for food and wine connoisseurs

THE Park Hyatt Masters of Food and Wine event, held annually in Shanghai, may be the only event in the world at which customers can enjoy three dinners prepared by chefs of Michelin one-, two-, three-star distinction as well as study under a master of wine in one week at one hotel.

This year's event is set for November 26-29.

"We want to create a grand experience in Shanghai, a week of learning and sharing. The definition of a quality lifestyle is not limited to enjoying but also participating, knowing how to create," says Christophe Sadones, general manager of Park Hyatt Shanghai.

Sadones is the first hotel general manager in town to bring world-leading masters together to present and teach their crafts. The first masters event two years ago featured Alain Ducasse, the only chef to oversee three Michelin three-star restaurants, making it the hottest food topic in town.

Sadones, who is French, has worked in Shanghai for more than six years. He said he feels a deep connection with China and has been passionate about learning Mandarin and Chinese culture. He said the event has come at an opportune moment in China.

"Diners here are becoming increasingly knowledgeable and sophisticated, with a great desire for top dining experiences. Chinese also have a good palate, sensitive to different flavors, which I personally believe is linked to their habit of drinking tea, which has trained them to identify subtle characters in flavor and aroma," Sadones says.

Food and wine across cultures

"France and China are the two countries in the world best known for their cuisine, so this year we are focusing on showcasing both at a high level," he says.

For the French part, the hotel has inviting three chefs, with one, two and three Michelin stars, respectively, for three gala dinners. One highlight is expected to be food prepared by Anne-Sophie Pic, the first French woman to receive three stars. She is known for imparting a feminine delicacy to her food, as well as bright, colorful presentation and sophisticated flavor.

The hotel will also launch a champagne class hosted by Ned Goodwin, one of four masters of wines in Asia. Goodwin will discuss the beauty of champagne, incorporating what's essential to know and tasting. Guests will be exposed to champagne at different levels, from grand cru to prestige cuvee, which are priced at up to US$20,000 a bottle.

To represent Chinese cuisine, the hotel will hold a seasonal hairy crab dinner presented by four leading chefs at Hyatt Group.

"It's not a normal crab feast but one creatively paired with important wines presented in 'theater dining' fashion," Sadones says.

Four chefs will cook in front of the guests, demonstrating the complexity of the job and adding more visual memories and entertainment for the diners.

Chinese spirits will be spotlighted with a baijiu (Chinese distilled alcoholic beverage) master class to explore the Chinese liquor distilled from sorghum. It will be hosted by Dengyi Lai, a leading expert in the Chinese baijiu industry.

Many people are scared of the fiery Chinese liquor, but many times it is also misunderstood, Sadones says. "Some baijiu, if well-made, tastes silky and not so strong but sophisticated, with an aroma of melon," he says.

All classes will be bilingual.

Beyond food and wine

This year's event will take a step beyond the past two years by expanding into art and culture, making it a wider celebration of craftsmanship, Sadones says.

A photography master class led by Studio Harcourt Paris is expected to be in demand. The studio, established in 1934, has been popular for many years among French celebrities, from former French President Charles de Gaulle to fashion icon Karl Lagerfeld. The class will teach ways to bring out the natural glow of each model to create a portrait that will stand the test of time.

Watch lovers will find a master class led by a watchmaker from Jaeger-LeCoultre. They will learn how the most complicated movements in the world are assembled and adjusted.

Dedication to the event

"Bringing so many masters together at the same time is not an easy job," Sadones says. "Many masters are emotional, endeavoring for perfection. The whole hotel team must perform like a contortionist, flexible enough to cater to the various requirements of the masters."

Sadones is an honorary member of Les Grandes Tables Du Monde, a leading culinary association representing 158 top restaurants from 22 countries and regions, which has kept him in close contact with numerous celebrity chefs.

The event also challenges the hotel's organizational capacity, and feedback from guests during the past two years has shown them where they need to improve.

"Some guests complained that the Michelin-star dinner and the Chinese gala dinner overlapped last year, so they reluctantly had to choose one and give up on the other. This year, we will try to stagger different dinners and classes to satisfy all guests," Sadones says.

Park Hyatt Shanghai benefits from its chef, sommelier and mixologist being exposed to world-leading experts in their area.

"Skill comes from doing. The event is not about money but about the importance of skill, dedication, friendship and most importantly, a strong willingness to give back on the part of both the masters and the hotel," Sadones says.




 

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