I have to predicate everything I write in this week’s column by stating that I’m an avid carnivore and while I adore vegetables a meal without meat or seafood is unthinkable. Having gotten that out of the way, I do admire people who for purposes of religion or compassion keep to a vegetarian diet. Just never ask me to be so virtuous.

Some of the more strict Buddhist and Taoist sects in China not only avoid meats and seafood but also pungent vegetable ingredients like garlic, onions and coriander. In some cases the killing of plant life is forbidden so root vegetables and other plant killing yields are also avoided. But these sects also prohibit alcohol so pairing wines within these limitations is pointless. Instead I’ll endeavor to show that wines enjoyed with vegetarian cuisine can be extraordinarily delicious and fulfilling.

Pairing guidelines

When paring wines with vegetarian dishes there are a few tried and true rules to follow. The first is to pair lighter dishes with lighter wines and heavier or more earthy dishes with heartier wines. Simply prepared and flavored green vegetables, bamboo shoots, spouts and corn are best with a light and lively white wine while more heavily seasoned dishes that include mushrooms and flavorful soy products are quite lovely with a heartier white or red wines.

In all cases, the flavors of the dish and wine should complement each other without one overpowering the other. In most cases whites are easier to pair with vegetarian dishes but depending on the dish some reds also work remarkably well. One very vege-friendly white wine comes from the Loire Valley in the heart of France.

French hilltop

The hillside vineyards around the Loire Valley village of Sancerre are home to white wines of great purity and elegance. Sancerre white wines are some of the most elegantly perfumed wines in the world. If you’re a fan of French perfumes than these wines are sure to enchant you with their sophisticated aromas of delicate fruits, flowers and minerals. As they mature, Sancerre whites may develop earthy qualities including the classic “cat piss” aromas. This isn’t nearly as gross as it sounds.

Since 1AD when the Romans first planted vines on the hillsides overlooking the majestic Loire River, the wines of this region have been prized in France and throughout Europe. The Sancerre AC was established in 1936 and since then the demarcated production area has grown fourfold in size with the most recent expansion in 1998. Today Sauvignon Blanc accounts for about 80 percent of Sancerre plantings with Pinot Noir vines occupying the remaining acreage.

Modern Sancerre white wines are among the best wines to pair with Chinese vegetarian dishes because unlike many New World Sauvignon Blanc wines, they are subtlety styled wines not overtly powerful. The lively acidity and mineral qualities of Sancerre whites awaken the freshness and highlight the natural flavors of vegetables. These wines also add a delicious touch of elegance to vegetarian dishes. Two top Sancerre producers have wines available in Shanghai.

Henri Bourgeois is one of Sancerre’s stars. The Bourgeois family has been making wines for 10 generations but until recently their production quantity was tiny. In 1950 the family owned only two hectares of vineyards, while today they have over 65 hectares of vineyards that provide grapes for half of their production. The other half is purchased from local growers. The quality of the wines is remarkable, from the entry level Petit Bourgeois Sauvignon Blanc that’s not even a Sancerre AC wine (because some fruit is sourced outside the AC), to the flagship Henri Bourgeois Sancerre Blanc Les Baronnes and the majestic Sancerre Blanc La Bourgeoise.

Another Sancerre producer you can rely on is Domaine Laporte. Established in 1850, this winery has built a reputation for stylish, fresh and fruity wines that feature generous doses of the desirable flinty tang that Sancerre lovers crave. Whether it’s a glass of Henri Bourgeois or Domaine Laporte Sancerre that graces your hand, your Chinese vegetarian meal will reach new heights of delectability!

Vegetal reds

There exist several red varieties that make wines with vegetal sensations. In wine-speak, a vegetal is used to describe a wine that exhibits characteristics of fresh or cooked vegetables including bell peppers, asparagus and eucalyptus. It’s important to remember that reds with subtle vegetal characteristics may be quite enjoyable, but overly vegetal reds that are the result of unripe grapes are considered flawed. Moderately vegetal red wines with ample fruity qualities and soft tannins make lovely companions to many Chinese vegetarian dishes.

One prominent example is Cabernet Franc. Renowned as a major component of Right Bank Bordeaux blends and light single variety wines from the Loire Valley, some of the most affordable and pleasant Cabernet Franc wines come from Chile. Perhaps my favorite is the Chocalan Cabernet Franc Reserva wine that’s fermented and aged 13 months in French oak. The result is a generous and sophisticated wine replete with dark fruit, chocolate and exotic spices along with pleasing soft vegetal notes.

Other red wines that may exhibit vegetal characteristics and will pair nicely with Chinese vegetarian dishes are Chilean Carmenere and young Cabernet Sauvignon wines.

Vegan wines

Strict vegetarians may be shocked to learn that many wines may not fit their interpretation of vegetarian. True enough, all quality wines are made with only grapes, but during the winemaking many wines are fined using animal products like egg whites, milk proteins or other animal proteins. This process to clarify and remove particles from wines is quite common and while these animal proteins are removed after the fining step, trace elements may remain. As a result, a growing number of producers are choosing not to fine their wines or to use vegan acceptable agents like bentonite and activated charcoal. Some leading US wine producers making vegan wines are Seghesio Family Vineyards, Bonny Doon and Palmina Wines.

Where to buy in Shanghai

Region & Style at a glance

Varieties:

Sauvignon Blanc is the noble queen of Sancerre, with Pinot Noir playing a lesser princeling role.

Key Term:

One of the most colorful aroma descriptors in wine talk is “cat piss” used to describe the unique earthy scent of a typical Sancerre white.