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April 13, 2012

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Clutching at vintage brocades to build an empire

FIONA Kotur Marin is a New York fashionista, close friend of designer Tory Burch and mother of four boys. In every sense a New Yorker - born, raised and educated in Manhattan - Marin, however, started her thriving handbag empire, Kotur, from her home in Hong Kong.

In 2004 she started with a small collection of evening bags made from vintage Chinese brocade, which were snapped up by such international retailers as Bergdorf Goodman and Scoop in New York, and Harvey Nichols in Hong Kong and Browns in London.

She now has a full-range line of evening and day bags (US$300-US$3,000) that have been carried by Jennifer Lopez, Scarlett Johansson, Anne Hathaway and other notables.

Growing up in a household where beauty and creativity were revered, Marin's interest in accessories was sparked by her mother's reverential care for her shoes, jewelry and bags.

Marin, a Wellesley and Parsons graduate, worked for Ralph Lauren, GAP, and quietly helped her friend Tory Burch develop her business.

How did you start your brand?

In Hong Kong, I discovered a remarkable trove of 1960s-70s vintage brocades from a small silk mill owned by a proud, 90-year-old craftsman. He was moving to San Francisco and destroyed all the machines since he wouldn't share his secrets. I bought everything ... The remnants inspired my business ... Aside from clutches, people asked what else I had - so I developed other bags.

Describe your style and inspiration.

It all started from brocade and evolved to day lines. A lot of inspiration comes from vintage, art and strong women. Last season's collection was influenced by Sonia Delaunay, who was a painter, textile and costume designer, very much a Renaissance woman.

Every month I have a muse ... I like individual style, I love high and low. So I offer bags in a wide price range.

What is Kotur known for?

Materials. I'm always searching for new materials - brocades, metallics, sequins, Swarovski crystals, treated exotic skins and shells. I travel extensively in Asia and tinalak from the southern Philippines is a favorite.

How important is an evening bag?

Often accessories bag give the look personality and individuality. Normally I'm simple on my dress but I'm not simple on my accessories. Bags certainly have to be functional but also give off whimsy and a sort of spirit. For truly an evening like the Debutante Ball, I think a brocade clutch or a minaudiere is most suitable.




 

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