The story appears on

Page C8 - C9

December 21, 2012

GET this page in PDF

Free for subscribers

View shopping cart

Related News

Home » Feature » StyleHai

Getting 'it' right for it girls (and guys)

SCANDAL-FILLED American drama "Gossip Girl" has gripped the attention of TV viewers around the world, and the show's sense of style is also capturing the imagination. Three of today's biggest fashion inspirations come from its characteArs Serena, Blair and Chuck. The lavishly dressed characters have brought the fashions of Upper East Side Manhattan to young people, much as "Sex and the City" did for a slightly older generation.

Emmy-winning costume designer Eric Daman is the creative force behind Blair, Serena and Chuck's wardrobes, and arguably as integral to the creation of the characters as the show's writers.

"The success of the show has transformed my life and I've been able to influence culture and fashion,'' said Daman, and whose resume includes a spell working with Patricia Field on costumes for "Sex and the City."

Daman, who has no formal fashion training, studied French literature in Paris, where he met acclaimed fashion photographer Steven Meisel, who was instrumental to the beginning of his modeling career. Later, he began working behind the scenes as an editorial stylist, before landing his first costume design project on an independent film.

Daman's unusual and diverse fashion background, taking in modeling, styling and designing, has helped him develop his own vision.

On Daman's recent ? and first ? visit to China, Daman brought with him Big Apple trends for the Maybelline New York "Be New York Bold'' event that took place in Shanghai last month.

He shared with Shanghai Daily insights into his work on the hit show; how he brings our favorite Gossip Girls to life through their envy-inspiring wardrobes, and his collaboration with Maybelline New York.



Where do you look for inspiration and references when designing for each character?

As a costume designer, it is important to make each character very specific through their outfits. I read the book, the scripts and even went to a private school to see what girls and boys wear and observe how they identify themselves. Serena is very Kate Moss; Blair is like a mix of old-world America Jackie O meets Audrey Hepburn with a sprinkle of fashion severity and savoir faire via Anna Wintour.

New York is indeed an amazing source of inspiration. Anywhere you go in the city, you get to see so many different styles: people down Lower East Side are much more like hipsters, younger, very fashionable, and the Upper East Side people are a bit more conservative. Everyone in New York is dressed up. We wanted to combine these worlds and pushed it, elevated it into a new, high fashion level.



Chuck Bass has a sharp dandyish look that women are crazy about and men try to emulate. How do you feel guys can interpret that flair in their everyday wardrobe?

Chuck Bass has been such a positive influence on menswear, men have started to dress better. I see a lot of men in New York City start to wear bow ties, pocket squares and I'm happy to be part of it, setting the trends. I think every man should have a nice suit and it is important to have a well-tailored blazer that can mix with jeans or T-shirt. A pocket square is also easy to add in and help elevate your look to another level. A pocket square is masculine and classic and is taking fashion forward.

What do you prepare before dressing the characters?

First, I have to know what's going on in the storyline and it's really important to take into consideration the emotion that's going to set the tone of the scene as well. You don't want the outfit to overpower the emotion that the actor or actress needs to show. I've been with the actors and actresses since the pilot so we have a very good relationship. They have confidence in me because of the success of the fashion of the show.



You worked with Patricia Field on costume design for "Sex and the City." What did you learn from her?

A lot. One of the biggest things I learned from Pat is the way she uses color and how to integrate bright colors that most people wouldn't think to wear all the time. Something you see in real life would not look good in TV.



It is said that Patricia Field neither attends fashion show nor read fashion magazines. What about you? How do you get fashion your info?

I do go to fashion shows during fashion weeks in New York or Paris but mostly I do research on the Internet because it is a wonderful tool to find out what's going on. I love reading Italy Vogue, as well as Teen Vogue, because what I do is also for younger demographic.



What is the biggest difference between you and people such as Patricia Field and stylist Rachel Zoe?

We are different people and have different sensibilities. Rachel Zoe is a bit more LA, influenced by the West Coast; Patricia Field is very New York but with Asian influences. What I do is very different: I have a combination of European and American style sensibilities. Rachel Zoe is great styling the stars but personally I don't want to be a stylist. For me being a costume designer is much more fun because you can create a character.



What attracted you most to becoming a costume designer? And what advice do you have for someone who wants to be a stylist or costume designer?

I really enjoy the idea of creating characters, defining people's personalities and identities through costume design. If you want to be a stylist, try to contact and work as an intern with the stylists or fashion editors you idolize. It's the way to get into the business.



You wrote the style book "You Know You Want It." What's the concept behind it?

I wanted to create a book for women to feel more confident and get good insider tips from me. My advice caters to all women and I stress the importance of dressing to flatter your body type, while actually showing you how to do so. And it is important to learn how to mix high and low that you can look great and be fashionable at the same time. You can buy an investment/statement piece from a big fashion house such as a Chanel jacket or a Burberry trench coat which helps to hold the look. Because the economic crisis, people are much more careful about spending money and are looking to mix high and low.



How did your collaboration with Maybelline New York come about?

I was interested in their theme "Be New York Bold" which is synonymous with what I do and what I'm iconic for. Maybelline is a classic, well-known and fashion-forward brand but it also has an aspirational, affordable quality to it. Fashion-wise to me, I love to mix high and low. Maybelline for me also embraces that luxury look without having to pay luxury prices to achieve it. We discussed this cross-over cooperation between the arenas of fashion and make-up and reached a great concept. I picked all the latest products from New York and created six looks that represent high fashion New York urban edge.



As you mentioned, you created six looks for Maybelline "Be New York Bold'' event. What provided the inspiration for these?

Maybelline came up with six themes so from there I had inspiration for each look, almost in the same way as I costume design for a character. The Neon Rock look is my favorite because it is the boldest and represents the neon trend that is happening right now. I did the graffiti on the jacket myself because I wanted it to have a real urban graffiti look that New York is famous for.



What are the latest fashion trends? Give your tips on "how to dress for a glamorous Christmas party.''

There are a lot of 1960s things going on in the runways but in a modern version. The new Prada campaign has a very 1960s pop look mixed with bold colors. You also see a lot of neon colors on the New York street. I think dressing for any party it is important to incorporate your own personality and confidence. You don't need to follow a trend but find something special to you. Individuality makes you feel very special.



Do you have any tips to share with Chinese women who would love to dress like Serena and Blair?

It seems Eastern dressing style is a bit more conservative, with a lot of black and grey. Start out slow and grow gradually. Adopt a statement accessory, wear a neon color nail polish or sparkle eyes; but not too much at the same time.



Any fashion designer you look up to?

I would say Pierre Balmain, Yves Saint Laurent, and Valentino Garavani. They have definitely been most influential designers for me.



What's your signature perfume?

My signature scent is Hermes Terre because it has a smoky, earthy scent to it.




 

Copyright © 1999- Shanghai Daily. All rights reserved.Preferably viewed with Internet Explorer 8 or newer browsers.

沪公网安备 31010602000204号

Email this to your friend