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April 13, 2012

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Lending a helping hand to emerging Chinese designers

FOR a crash course in China's emerging designers and their aesthetic sensibilities drop by Dong Liang fashion boutique in Shanghai and the curated shop Wuhao in Beijing. Both may provide a pleasant surprise.

Since opening in July last year, Dong Liang has become a popular shopping destination. Set inside a three-floor converted garden house on Fumin Road, the space showcases an extensive collection of some of China's best independent designers.

Upon opening its first shop in Beijing two years ago, Dong Liang has achieved its status with a strong concept, unique retail experience and high-quality Chinese designs.

"Two years ago, when young Chinese designers didn't attract much attention, we realized their great potential," said Tasha Liu, partner of Dong Liang in Shanghai.

She said that while the Chinese have been labeled as producers in past years, it's important to cultivate a new generation with creativity.

"They are avant-garde, experimental, visionary, with fresh ideas but they need a platform like us," Liu said. "Those who collaborate with Dong Liang are selected based on their individuality, quality of fabric, craftsmanship, and the completeness of each collection."

The number of designers featured in the store grew from six to 20 and some of the hot names have already created a buzz outside China such as Uma Wang, who showcased her autumn/winter collection at the recent Milan Fashion Week.

Prices at Dong Liang start from 1,500 yuan(US$238) to 2,500 yuan for a top and 2,000 yuan to 3,000 yuan for a total look.

Liu is confident about the ability of Chinese designers and Dong Liang's ability to stand out from other concept stores in China.

"We are a retail store but at the same time we are like a helping agent, a platform for Chinese creativity," she said. "We provide feedback to our designers, monitor market demand and make suggestions about different aspects about the products."

Liu also said independent designers face high costs due to their limited number of items they produce compared to commercial brands.

"If the market demand for Chinese homegrown fashion increases, things will get better," she said, adding that they had received great help from the media, digital marketing and support from celebrities.

While Dong Liang is a commercial boutique showcasing Chinese designs, Wuhao in Beijing is an impressive curated shop born from Isabelle Pascal's enthusiasm for the five elements - earth, wood, water, metal and fire - in Chinese philosophy as well as the energy found in the Chinese creative scene.

Pascal transformed an old courtyard in Mao'er Hutong near Drum Tower into one of the most unique and exclusive retail spaces in Beijing for cutting-edge fashion and design.

Pascal has a great eye for talent and her role is similar to a gallery director. She curates seasonal collections themed around the five elements and works with Chinese and international artists in fashion, jewelry, furniture, installation, art, ceramics and lifestyle.

From the south of France, Pascal was captivated by the energy of China during a holiday in 2002. After several visits, she decided to move to Beijing in 2007.

She was one of the first supporters and clients of Dong Liang and she loves Chinese fashion designs.

"As proof, I wear their garments everyday with a special focus this past winter on amazing Uma Wang," Pascal said.

Pascal has her very own ideas about how to expose the work by emerging talents.

"We aim to provide our clients a totally unique retail experience and introduce some fresh and new designers to the world," she said. "We select cutting-edge indie designers, young talents and eco-conscious designers and create with them special limited editions."

She started in June 2010 with well-known local designers such as Jia Li, Pep Design and Sun Wentao, who created art installations for Wuhao. She has also worked with fresh names from major Chinese design schools like Zheng Haifeng, Su Chunrong, Wang Hao and Wang Kaichuan. Later, international designers and Hong Kong brands joined Wuhao.

Currently, three rooms inside the courtyard display a mix of Pascal's selections from about 100 designers and brands. The entrance and the garden are decorated with avant-garde furniture pieces and art installations.

Each season there are new installations and displays for a unique selection of products handpicked by Pascal. Everywhere you turn, there is a surprise.

"I'm sourcing everywhere, all the time: traveling, meeting people, attending graduation shows… I choose pieces which draw me out, give emotions, pieces that I'm sure that the people I know will be enthusiastic to discover," Pascal said. "It's all based on creativity and quality. I have a special interest for pieces that mix art and craft. I love the people and story behind the products."

Having begun with 15 designers, Wuhao now boasts 100 designers and brands with different cooperation modes. About 80 percent of the labels featured here are Chinese. Wuhao also has an exclusive limited editions program in which they selected six young talents and helped them design from scratch. The completed collections were then featured in Wuhao.

Pascal also organizes design events. In September, Wuhao participated in Beijing Design Week, renovating a traditional teahouse.

Through it all, she believes that building a brand with fresh ideas will help support a network of emerging designers.

Pascal thinks big and said she won't stop at Beijing.

"We promote Chinese designs abroad," she said. "In April 2011, we went to Milan Design furniture fair with Xiao Tianyu and Wang Hao. This year, we will have more opportunities to take our designers abroad.

"Chinese designers are definitely very talented and creative, but they should focus a little more on production processes. There's a bright future for them and they will be the most powerful design strength in five years," said Pascal.




 

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