CLASSICAL music, Cairo markets and royalty help provide inspiration for three jewelry designers making their mark with distinctive styles. Patsy Yang and Caterina Bernardini meet them.Artist with many strings to her bow

Chinese-American jewelry artist Anna Hu has had an eventful year. She held her first international solo exhibition, entitled "Symphony of Jewels," at the esteemed Les Arts Decoratifs in Paris. This month, she opened her first flagship store in Asia at Rockbund, Shanghai.

"Paris is my soul. There is no other place in the world that gives me the same romantic and magical feeling with which to create," said Hu, a Taiwanese.

"My passion is to design one of a kind jewels which connect Chinese aesthetics with the precious artistry of French haute joaillerie. Having my first show in Paris is a true dream come true."

The exhibition took place in July and marked a celebration of her first 99 works, 69 of which were on display.

Hu's inspiration encompasses both Eastern and Western historical and cultural influences, as well as from nature - evident in the birds, delicate orchids, ethereal butterflies and plum blossoms against a snowy background that feature in her work.

Other pieces draw upon masters of Western and Chinese art, such as Monet's "Water Lilies," Van Gogh's "Irises" and the painting "Auspicious Cranes" by Song Dynasty (AD 960-1279)emperor Huizong. However, Hu's passion for music - she was a highly ranked cellist - provides the most profound influence on her work, through literal and figurative expressions. While an shoulder injury brought an end to Hu's cellist ambitions, it opened up a career as a jewelry designer.



What inspires your design style?

As a former nationally ranked cellist, music is a very deep and personal inspiration in my life and in my work. I often embed musical motifs in my pieces and on a more psychological level. I listen to huge amounts of classical music when I design, which fuels my heart and allows my fantasies to be unleashed in unique ways. Nature is also a profound inspiration, though I tend to see nature's blessings as my own whimsical creatures and celebrate its rituals with my own interpretations.

How did you start out in jewelry design?

After many years of passionately studying music, fine arts and gemology, I was very fortunate to have the privilege of working at Christie's, Van Cleef & Arpels and Harry Winston. I was honored to have Maurice Galli, head of design at Harry Winston, take me under his wing and begin teaching me privately. After a few incredible years of mentoring, he encouraged me to venture out on my own as a designer and start my own brand, with my crazy imagination and fantastical designs. It is because of his unwavering support and genuine belief in me that I made the leap on my own, at the age of 29.



Your work is very popular in celebrity circles. Who are some of your loyal followers?

Madonna was the first celebrity to embrace my jewelry and she wore three of my pieces the day after she met me, which happened to be at The Met Gala in New York, where she was the honoree, Marc Jacobs' date. She has worn my pieces many times since. Other celebrities include Gwyneth Paltrow, Drew Barrymore, Scarlett Johansson and Hilary Swank … each in her own way, and each so beautifully.



Which art jewelry artists have had the most profound impact on your work?

I love Rene Lalique. I studied him as a fine arts student and appreciates his genius to this day. Wallace Chan is another designer I cherish.



You opened your first boutique in Taiwan in 2007, yet just five years later were the subject of an exhibition at Les Arts Decoratifs in Paris. What is your biggest achievements?

I consider every day an achievement. To do what one loves so much is an achievement. And even greater than that, when others like your work and celebrate it, the feeling is more than words can express.

Where can we see, and buy, your creations? Do you have plans for further expansion, especially on the Chinese mainland?

I'm focusing on sharing my jewels in the most sacred places in my heart this year and next year. I just opened a magical store in Shanghai, my first flagship store in Asia, at the Bund. It is the epicenter of old and new worlds, a place of fantasy. Next, I will honor my roots by opening a store in Taipei at the Mandarin Oriental. It will be the most incredible testament to my path as a jeweler and I am very proud of this step. Finally, I am relocating my New York salon. My career began there and my first store was at the iconic Plaza Hotel. But I have grown as an artist and my new store will reflect the journey.

A rebel looking for crowning glory

jewelry created by young up-and-coming designer Michael David Wilson is aimed at people who don't follow rules - in fashion or in life. It's for those with an endless search for history, adventure, drama and fun.

Wilson, at 25, started his jewelry brand Mishka Piaf two and a half years ago and has been creating unique pieces ever since. The name brings together his family nickname Mishka and legendary French singer Edith Piaf, who Wilson admires.

The Los Angeles-based designer's collections are filled with hand-made designer vintage jewelry modernized to everyday attire. The distinct elements that make up each piece are collected from antique and vintage sources around the world.

"I've been fascinated by vintage my entire life, especially costume jewelry. I've collected vintage jewelry from the 1920s to 1960s around the world on extensive travels," Wilson said.

"My last trip was to Jordan in the Middle East, where I found the most beautiful ruby and sapphire brooches, necklaces and earrings which I'm going to use in my new collections.''

Wilson also finds inspiration in royalty. "I'm very inspired by the royal lifestyle," Wilson said. "I love the idea of how religion is very strong in royal society and I look at the thrones and crowns and think about how they can be used in daily accessories.''

In addition to his vintage and royal inspiration, Wilson also looks to evoke in his work a feeling or atmosphere from his travels.

"Traveling plays a big role in my creations. I have traveled around the world - from all over Europe to exotic places in Asia - ever since I was a little child.

"This exposure has helped me absorb artistic, musical and cultural flavors to form my aesthetic style," he said.

Wilson loves to "play" with different materials, such as pewter, gold, Swarovski crystals, stones and brass.

Working in Los Angeles gave the young designer opportunities to work with celebrities. He made Britney Spears a hand piece, a bracelet and rings in a glamorous Cleopatra style for her fragrance collection commercial.

Singer and actress Jordin Sparks also loves his work and Lebanese singer Nancy Ajram wore one of Wilson's necklaces for a performance in Las Vegas.

"My design style is rebellious with glamor, a bit Gothic-inspired," explained Wilson.

"The woman who wears my jewelry is not afraid to be loud and be herself. But some of my pieces also have a unisex feeling with strong emotions which also attract male buyers."

Speaking of men's style, Wilson is sometimes known as "Design Diva" or "Man of Style."

"I personally wear black which seems to be a perfect palette for my jewelry to stand out. I usually wear two to three rings and big statement bracelet,'' he said.

"But for women, the pieces I most like creating are necklaces and bracelets."