Bohemians in rhapsodies over Mexican resort
By Manuel Valdes |
January 19, 2013, Saturday
|
Print Edition
Print Edition
THE all-inclusive Cancun resorts are not known for topless women on the beach or Argentinians with scraggly beards playing Gypsy music. But that's the norm in Tulum, a Mexican seaside spot south of Cancun that attracts a mix of bohemians, well-pocketed New Age types and sun-seekers to its turquoise waters and white sandy beaches.
Despite its proximity to Cancun and its fellow party neighbor Playa del Carmen, Tulum is not for the same spring break crowd.
"The college kids go to Cancun. The professors and teacher assistants come to Tulum," said Richard Contreras, whose family has managed properties in Tulum for nearly a decade.
The spot doesn't come cheap. We couldn't find a room on the beach for less than US$150 a night that came with a bathroom. "Tulum is luxury, but the luxury here is nature and the beach," said Mimi Contreras, Richard's sister.
Our trip was a five-day sun-seeking dash in the first week of January, during the high season, which stretches from winter through spring break. Tulum, located on Mexico's lush green Yucatan Peninsula, was an ideal destination. The weather was perfect; bright sunshine rarely obscured by fast traveling clouds. December and January are among the driest months on the Yucatan Peninsula and offer temperatures in the mid-80s.
The spot is about 145 kilometers south of Cancun, connected by highway.
"Tulum is pretty laid-back and chilled. And I think most of the people who live here, work here, who have property here, want to keep it that way to a certain extent," Mimi Contreras said.
The resort can be divided into three parts: the town, the Mayan ruins and the beach.
Tulum the town is on the highway, about a 10-minute drive from the beach. Tourism has pushed the population to around 30,000 people, but the town retains the blueprint of many Latin American pueblos, centered around an open plaza or town square.
Just past the town are the nearest "cenotes," water caves that are part of a network of rivers under the Yucatan Peninsula. We went to the Gran Cenote (US$10 entrance plus snorkel rental) for a swim in its cool and clear waters.
Tulum may be best-known for its Mayan ruins. The complex of crumbling structures here is smaller and less impressive than other Mayan sites, but its location atop cliffs is one of the most scenic ruin sites on the Yucatan. The complex is surrounded by a wall - Tulum means wall. Entrance to the park is US$10.
Last but not least, Tulum the beach. Stretching 10 kilometers, waterfront Tulum is lined with cabanas, "eco-chic" hotels, fancy restaurants and yoga spots.
We stayed in one of the Contreras' seaside cabanas for US$75 a night. The rooms are large, clean and nicely decorated with Wi-Fi. Ours came with a shared bathroom. Guests can use sun beds, lounge chairs and a bar from the Contreras' next-door property.
"I want to have a place for people who are independent travelers ... who can appreciate the little oasis we've built here," said Mimi Contreras.
There are plenty of people on the beach, but it doesn't feel crowded. The lone nuisance was bohemian types selling handmade bracelets and bikinis.
Most of all, it was sunny and relaxing, which is, after all, what makes the beach the most important of the three Tulums.
If you go
Tulum: Nearest major airport, Cancun, about 145 kilometers from Tulum, reachable by rental car and shuttle bus. Websites with information about Tulum include www.todotulum.com. Mimi and Richard Contreras' cabanas run about US$75 a night, www.airbnb.com/users/show/150191. Los Lirios Cabanas Hotel, US$150, www.loslirioshotel.com. Rates may vary.
Despite its proximity to Cancun and its fellow party neighbor Playa del Carmen, Tulum is not for the same spring break crowd.
"The college kids go to Cancun. The professors and teacher assistants come to Tulum," said Richard Contreras, whose family has managed properties in Tulum for nearly a decade.
The spot doesn't come cheap. We couldn't find a room on the beach for less than US$150 a night that came with a bathroom. "Tulum is luxury, but the luxury here is nature and the beach," said Mimi Contreras, Richard's sister.
Our trip was a five-day sun-seeking dash in the first week of January, during the high season, which stretches from winter through spring break. Tulum, located on Mexico's lush green Yucatan Peninsula, was an ideal destination. The weather was perfect; bright sunshine rarely obscured by fast traveling clouds. December and January are among the driest months on the Yucatan Peninsula and offer temperatures in the mid-80s.
The spot is about 145 kilometers south of Cancun, connected by highway.
"Tulum is pretty laid-back and chilled. And I think most of the people who live here, work here, who have property here, want to keep it that way to a certain extent," Mimi Contreras said.
The resort can be divided into three parts: the town, the Mayan ruins and the beach.
Tulum the town is on the highway, about a 10-minute drive from the beach. Tourism has pushed the population to around 30,000 people, but the town retains the blueprint of many Latin American pueblos, centered around an open plaza or town square.
Just past the town are the nearest "cenotes," water caves that are part of a network of rivers under the Yucatan Peninsula. We went to the Gran Cenote (US$10 entrance plus snorkel rental) for a swim in its cool and clear waters.
Tulum may be best-known for its Mayan ruins. The complex of crumbling structures here is smaller and less impressive than other Mayan sites, but its location atop cliffs is one of the most scenic ruin sites on the Yucatan. The complex is surrounded by a wall - Tulum means wall. Entrance to the park is US$10.
Last but not least, Tulum the beach. Stretching 10 kilometers, waterfront Tulum is lined with cabanas, "eco-chic" hotels, fancy restaurants and yoga spots.
We stayed in one of the Contreras' seaside cabanas for US$75 a night. The rooms are large, clean and nicely decorated with Wi-Fi. Ours came with a shared bathroom. Guests can use sun beds, lounge chairs and a bar from the Contreras' next-door property.
"I want to have a place for people who are independent travelers ... who can appreciate the little oasis we've built here," said Mimi Contreras.
There are plenty of people on the beach, but it doesn't feel crowded. The lone nuisance was bohemian types selling handmade bracelets and bikinis.
Most of all, it was sunny and relaxing, which is, after all, what makes the beach the most important of the three Tulums.
If you go
Tulum: Nearest major airport, Cancun, about 145 kilometers from Tulum, reachable by rental car and shuttle bus. Websites with information about Tulum include www.todotulum.com. Mimi and Richard Contreras' cabanas run about US$75 a night, www.airbnb.com/users/show/150191. Los Lirios Cabanas Hotel, US$150, www.loslirioshotel.com. Rates may vary.
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