Editors' note

Ancient Buddhist grottoes along the Silk Road in western China are a trove of magnificent art that shows the influence of many cultures for more than a thousand years.

Shanghai Daily launches a travel series covering the Qiuci Kingdom grottoes in Xinjiang, the Dunhuang Mogao Grottoes and Maijishan Grottoes in Gansu Province, the Longmen Grottoes in Henan Province and the Yungang Grottoes in Shanxi Province.

Most sites have UNESCO World Cultural Heritage status and others are applying.

The first article today covers the Kizil Thousand-Buddha Caves and other grottoes in the Xinjiang Uygur Autonomous Region, as well as other destinations and travel advice.

Other articles will appear in coming weeks.

Lovers of ancient cave art and those who like hiking and roughing it off the beaten path will find their efforts richly rewarded in the remote Thousand-Buddha Caves and other grottoes in Xinjiang along the Silk Road.

The locations are remote, there are few paved roads, few or no buses and plenty of dust and sand. It's sweltering in summer and can be freezing at night. Accommodation is simple.

But behind the cliff face, reincarnations of Buddha, elegant flying deities, dancing figures, warriors, monks, princes and other figures and colors create a kaleidoscope of spiritual expression in the Thousand-Buddha Caves, also known as the Kizil caves near the township of Kizil. There's also a Central Asian menagerie in frescoes.

Looking up at some of the vaulted ceilings, visitors see a swarm of figures and scenes in diamond-shaped panels, a kind of dizzying Sistine Chapel-effect in the desert. In other murals, figures appear to be swimming in intense aqua green waters. Rare lapis lazuli mined in Afghanistan was used to make rare ultramarine blues that are characteristic of the paintings.

The 236 Kizil caves in the Xinjiang Uygur Autonomous Region are the oldest Buddhist grottoes in China and predecessors of the better-known Mogao Grottoes in Gansu Province. The caves are carved into a two-kilometer-long cliff, around 75 kilometers by road west of Kuche, once a major commercial hub on the Silk Road and oasis in the Tarim Basin.

The cave art represents a melting pot in the 3rd to 9th centuries AD, in which legends, myths and arts from ancient India, Greece, Rome, Persia and Central China combined in Buddhist mural art of a high level. It's also an encyclopedia of history, religion, daily life and architecture, with clear evidence of the convergence and communication between China and other cultures. The earliest caves have no Chinese influence.

Around the 10th century, Islam began to spread into northwestern China and the caves were abandoned, their statues destroyed because they were perceived to be "idols."

The Kizil complex was created during the Qiuci Kingdom (AD 74-11th century) and is considered the pearl of Xinjiang grottoes, predating the Mogao Grottoes in Dunhuang by as much as 100 years.

"The Xinjiang grottoes are the early source for Mogao art and they influenced the entirety of Chinese art history through the Silk Road, notably in the lines and use of colors," says Xu Yongming, director of the Xinjiang Kucha Academy.

Many of the cave walls are dark and blank, scarred by the looting of explorers who cut spectacular paintings out and shipped them to museums, mostly in Europe.

Provincial officials plan to apply for UNESCO World Heritage status for the Silk Road in China, covering the Qiuci grottoes around Kuche and relics of the Gaochang Kingdom (AD 460-640) in Turpan, dating back 1,700 years.

I was initially attracted by the intriguing cave names, such "Sixteen Swordsmen" (No. 8), "Peacock" (No. 76) and "Music" (No. 38), given by German explorers who arrived around 1900 and looted artifacts, manuscripts and large sections of frescoes. For example, most of the ceiling decorated with blue and green peacock feathers in cave No. 76 were looted.

Though damaged by time, weather, sand, religious conflict and pillaging, hundreds of paintings remain.

Notable caves include the new No. 1 ("Beautiful Flying Apsaras"), No. 17 ("Jakata Tales"), No. 38 ("Music Cave"), No. 80 (Buddha Preaching), and No. 8 ("Sixteen Swordsmen").

Highlights

"Jataka Tales" Cave (No. 17)

Jataka Tales are literature about the previous lives of Buddha in both animal and human form. In this cave, walls and ceiling are covered with dozens of animals, including tigers, elephants, deer, monkeys and birds. The tales are told in diamond-shaped panels common to Kizil art.

One mural depicts the "Monkey, Lion and Hawk" tale in which a lion "Buddha" offers his own flesh to a hawk that has carried off two little monkeys. In another tale, Buddha as monkey king rescues monkeys from a forest by creating a bridge with his own body so the monkeys can cross over a pond containing evil spirits.


"Music Cave" (No. 38)

Also called "Musicians in Heaven Cave," this grotto contains seemingly three-dimensional (trompe l'oeil) murals of a Qiuci band with 28 musicians playing a dozen different instruments. Some, like the pipa (four-stringed lute) came to China from India through the Silk Road.

Artists used ultramarine pigment derived from lapis lazuli mined in Afghanistan. The scenes, gestures, garments, instruments, various objects illustrate life in northwestern regions, especially in the Tang Dynasty (AD 618-907).


"Beautiful Flying Apsaras" (new No. 1)

The new No. 1 cave near cave No. 69 ("Big Buddha Statue") was so named because it was discovered in the late 1970s (a relatively "new" discovery). It's famous for flying apsaras in the rear chamber.

Compared with the smiling, female apsaras in Dunhuang, the apsaras in the Kizil caves are more human, with distinctive legs instead of floating "fish tails" and serene expressions.

Themes and 'DNA'

Many caves have a central pillar, a large front chamber and a smaller rear chamber, linked by a corridor on each side. In the front chambers, Jakata Tales and Scenes of Buddha Preaching are the most common themes. Buddha's nirvana is a major theme in many rear chambers; Buddha is depicted lying down and surrounded by disciples and apsaras.

The use of diamond-shaped panels - fringed by loops or leaves- and lapis lazuli pigment are part of the DNA in Kizil.

The panels indicate a separate space or time and the decorative fringe may derive from the heart-shaped leaves of the Bodhi Tree, under which Buddha attained enlightenment.

The Kizil cave art is distinct for its sense of "brightness and decoration" in dark grottoes, according to painter Wang Zheng, who spent nine years in Kizil to copy and research cave art.

At the entrance of the Kizil caves stands a statue of Kumara Jiva, one of the famous Buddhist monks who translated major works from Sanskrit into Chinese, including the Diamond and Lotus statue.

Caves No. 1 to 80, including the new No. 1, are open to tourists; guides are provided and there is access by stairs. The other caves, which do not have improved walkways, are only open to experts and artists.

Other Buddhist caves and relics

For dedicated explorers, other Buddhist caves are worth visiting around Baicheng and Kuche, including the Kumtura, Kizilkarha and Simsim caves.

Kumtura Grottoes, the second biggest cave complex after Kizil, contains 112 caves constructed from the 5th to the 11th centuries. It's around 30 kilometers northwest of Kuche.

Kumtura in Uyghur means "Beacon Tower in the Desert." It's also called "Han-style Grottoes" reflecting the influence of Han people coming from Central China.


"Local People" Cave (No. 34)

No one can resist looking up at the domed ceiling decorated with a dozen common people, wearing various expressions and garments. It reflects the Qiuci Kingdom practice of depicting ordinary people, not Buddhas and deities, on the ceilings. Persian elements are notable.

In the four corners of the cave are deities with dragon bodies and human faces. They are similar to figures found in the Dunhuang Grottoes, Yungang Grottoes in Datong in Shanxi Province, and Longmen Grottoes in Luoyang in Henan Province. Murals depict Jatake Tales and architecture with 3D effects, probably derived from the No. 38 "Music" Cave in Kizil.

Also worth visiting in Kumtura are caves No. 21, 45 and 46 with well-preserved painting of "thousand Buddhas." Be sure to visit the five consecutive caves, No. 68-72, sharing outer corridors on the cliff.

At the Kizilkarha Grottoes near Kuche, No. 30 cave is notable for especially beautiful apsaras.

The ruins of the one-flourishing Subashi Buddhist Temple, 20 kilometers northeast of Kuche, are worth visiting. Also called the Zhaohuli Temples, they were built in the 3rd century and expanded greatly in the Tang Dynasty, when thousands of monks gathered in the region. The most famous monk was Xuanzang who went on a pilgrimage to India to bring Buddhist scriptures back to China. He stayed in Subashi during his legendary "Journey to the West."

The temples were destroyed in conflicts and finally abandoned after the 10th century.

Watching the sun set is a moving experience.

Going eastward on the Silk Road, the next big kingdom in the region was the Gaochang Kingdom in today's city of Turpan. Four hours drive from the capital of Urumqi, visitors can see the Bezeklik and Tuyugou grottoes.

Bezeklik, meaning Beautiful and Decorated Place in the Turkik Uygur language, was built on a small scale in the 6th century. It prospered between the 9th and 12th centuries, and was seriously damaged in religious conflicts when Islam entered the Turpan Basin in the late 14th century.

The most beautiful paintings were cut from the walls by looting explorers and are mostly in German museums. Lost works include "Indian Monks," "Three Dutongs" and "Uygur Prince."

Today the paintings are protected by transparent casing. Notable is "The Death of Buddha" (No. 33), which depicts mourning bodhisattvas, princes and musicians with varied, vivid expressions, even detailed eyeballs. Through their faces and garments, visitors feel the history of the Silk Road. It shows Chinese influences, including facial features and musical instruments such as the xiao or vertical flute.

"You can find the convergence of culture in the cave, from the princes in western style and a boy in traditional Chinese style," says the painter Wang, who also spent several months in Bezeklik.

If you go

Trip information

Other attractions around grottoes in Xinjiang:

Kizil Canyon

North of Kuche. The red canyons remind visitors of Zion National Park in the United States.

Kuche Museum

In downtown Kuche the tiny history museum displays ancient maps, original paintings from Kumtura and many replicas of looted Buddha heads now displayed in museums overseas.

Poplar forest

Golden poplars put on a show in autumn in both lake regions and deserts in Shaya and Luntai, both within easy driving distance of Kuche.

Tianchi or Lake Tian

In suburban Urumqi, a beautiful lake is nestled in hills.

Gaochang and Jiaohe cities

Near Turpan, these are relics of the Gaochang.

How to get there

Kuche is a one-hour flight from the regional capital of Urumqi, or a 10-hour train ride (not recommended). Urumqi has convenient air links with Shanghai and other major cities. Qiuci caves are a two-hour drive from Kuche Airport.

Bezeklik is a four-hour car or taxi ride from Urumqi. The bus is not recommended.

Cars are necessary to reach most grottoes; there are few buses. A one-way trip from Kuche to Kizil costs around 200 yuan (US$32); one day's rental is around 500 yuan. Taxis from Urumqi to Turpan cost a little more with highway fees.

Where to stay

Tourists from big cities worry about theft and safety while traveling in Xinjiang. But most recommended sites and accommodation are safe. Some have guards.

Kuche

Kuche Hotel, 220 yuan/night (government-run)

Jianqiao Hotel, 140 yuan/night (near supermarket)

Shaya Hotel, 120 yuan/night (government-run)

Urumqi

Super 8, 300 yuan/night (chain hotels downtown)

GreenTree Inn, 200 /night (chain hotels downtown)

What to eat

Mutton is a must. Kuche is famous for nang pancake and white apricots.

The chicken is delicious in Caiwopu, on the way to Turpan from Urumqi.

Tips

Always carry your passport or ID card.

Don't ask the price if you don't want to buy in a bazaar. Otherwise you will be hassled.

Because of the big day-night temperature gap, pack appropriate clothing.

Touching and photography are forbidden in the caves.