Far from the madding crowd to explore some of Hong Kong's seaside villages
By Zhuomin Lee |
March 30, 2013, Saturday
|
Print Edition
Print Edition
Lights in Mongkok, street food along Temple Street and shopping at Causeway Bay are undeniably some of the best ways to experience Hong Kong. At the heart of the city that never sleeps, bustling human and vehicle traffic throb along its veins in perpetual pandemonium. And let's face it - this adrenalin is addictive. But tear yourself away from the hurried pace of city life if you can, and tune in to the beat of the suburbs beyond. Here, you do not have to rush. Along some of these coastlines are traditional seaside villages that have existed for hundreds of years. Visiting this is a whole new way to experience a side of Hong Kong you never knew.
Featured here are three easy-to-get-to, plenty-to-see, and rather off-the-beaten-track seaside villages that are characteristically Hong Kong.
Tai O
In the northwestern corner of Lantau Island, Tai O is nearly a two-hour journey from the city center. Prepare for a white-knuckle ride as the bus winds its way around hairpin bends that threaten to reacquaint you with your breakfast. But once there, the charming village is a daytripper's paradise. It is here you can get yourself acquainted with a memorable taste of old Hong Kong.
At the Tai O bus station, tour operators offer to take tourists out to sea to view dolphins. According to some reviews, this is pricey and hardly worth it, so we gave that a miss. Still, if you are curious, the saving grace of the boat trips lies in the fact that you get to see and snap stilt houses from the water.
These creaky homes (known as pang uk in Cantonese) made out of random scrap materials - zinc sheets, cardboard, bits of wire - are still standing strong despite years of treacherous typhoons.
In recent years, Tai O has seen a lot more visitors. A police station built more than a century ago is renovated into a new nine-suite boutique hotel with HK$66.7 million (US$8.59 million). Tai O Heritage Hotel is classy with a slightly overpriced restaurant, open to visitors from 11am-6pm.
A previous lack of economic activity and the long commute are reasons why most young people have moved out into the city for jobs. Seniors stay behind, seemingly unfazed by the rapid rate of redevelopment around them.
An interesting afternoon excursion is to stroll and eat your way around the market selling traditional sweet puddings, home-made shrimp paste, barbecued cuttlefish, salted egg yokes, and other curios (we saw a dried puffer fish the size of a basketball). Don't forget to get your teeth stuck with tea cakes (cha guo), a peanut-filled sticky glutinous cake.
The Tin Hau temple at the back of Kat Hing Street is small, but still worth a visit.
What to eat:
Tai O Lookout:
Have coffee or a glass of house white in style.
Address: Tai O Heritage Hotel, Shek Tsai Po Street
Shan Shui Beancurd:
Pure tofu, snacks and noodles
Address: 43 Wing On street
How to get there:
MTR station Tung Chung and switch to Bus No. 11 at the bus terminus.
Ferry from Central pier to Mui Wo and switch to Bus No. 1.
Lei Yue Mun
Hong Kongers are some of the nicest neighbors on the planet, though they do not look like it because they always seem to be in a hurry. In the suburban neighbourhood of Lei Yue Mun, everyone seems to know everyone. This closely-knit community is seen in the way kind amiable folk often greet every other random person in the village.
Lei Yue Mun refers to the passage of water between Hong Kong island and Kowloon. Old and sometimes rundown houses here give the village the appearance of a time capsule from the 1950s. Today, many locals still worship at the Tin Hau temple and ask for blessing upon various things in life - business, health, family and relationships. On your way there, watch out you don't trespass into someone's backyard. Then again, you don't have to worry; fiercely protective domestic mongrels will make sure you keep out.
Most people miss Che Teng Tsuen somewhere around the back, where a small trail uphill takes you to Devil's Peak, an abandoned battery that was once used to defend the island from the Japanese invasion during the World War II. If you have no intention to hike that far, park yourself at the beach at sunset and relax by the waterfront.
What to eat:
Wai Yat Store:
Morning snack or afternoon tea of traditional toast, coffee, milk tea and instant noodles before your hike.
Address: 42 Lei Yue Mun Praya Rd
How to get there:
MTR station Yau Tong, take exit A2 and follow the signs to Lei Yue Mun. About 10 minutes walk.
Shek O
Simply put - if you have an unexplainable insatiable appetite for buzzing crowds, lively parties and all things intense, Shek O is your place. On weekends, the beach is nearly packed with beach-goers frolicking around in their sunnies, flip-flops and bikini. Beachside BBQ, baking bronze under the sun, swimming and surfing pretty much sums up the main activities here.
Lifeguards are on duty during the beach's opening hours from 9am to 6pm. It is best to observe the red flags, for the sea's fluffy foamy waves can be deceptively dangerous.
Beyond the beach, Shek O Village is cheerful and alive with cafes and restaurants. Some stores offer locker rental and shower facilities.
The rustic beach community has also been host to the annual Shek O Challenge since 2004, a 2.2 kilometer open water swim from Big Wave Bay to Rocky Bay, in an effort to raise awareness on ocean conservation.
A little walk further out takes you to the headland, lovely for an amazing panoramic view of the mainland. The bus that takes you to Shek O beach also passes through Dragon's Back trail, a fairly easy hike popular with locals on the weekends.
What to eat:
Sai Jai Thai Store:
Grub on the go, grab Thai BBQ sticks here.
Address: 784 Shek O Village
How to get there:
MTR station Shau Kei Wan and switch to Bus No. 9 at the bus terminus.
Featured here are three easy-to-get-to, plenty-to-see, and rather off-the-beaten-track seaside villages that are characteristically Hong Kong.
Tai O
In the northwestern corner of Lantau Island, Tai O is nearly a two-hour journey from the city center. Prepare for a white-knuckle ride as the bus winds its way around hairpin bends that threaten to reacquaint you with your breakfast. But once there, the charming village is a daytripper's paradise. It is here you can get yourself acquainted with a memorable taste of old Hong Kong.
At the Tai O bus station, tour operators offer to take tourists out to sea to view dolphins. According to some reviews, this is pricey and hardly worth it, so we gave that a miss. Still, if you are curious, the saving grace of the boat trips lies in the fact that you get to see and snap stilt houses from the water.
These creaky homes (known as pang uk in Cantonese) made out of random scrap materials - zinc sheets, cardboard, bits of wire - are still standing strong despite years of treacherous typhoons.
In recent years, Tai O has seen a lot more visitors. A police station built more than a century ago is renovated into a new nine-suite boutique hotel with HK$66.7 million (US$8.59 million). Tai O Heritage Hotel is classy with a slightly overpriced restaurant, open to visitors from 11am-6pm.
A previous lack of economic activity and the long commute are reasons why most young people have moved out into the city for jobs. Seniors stay behind, seemingly unfazed by the rapid rate of redevelopment around them.
An interesting afternoon excursion is to stroll and eat your way around the market selling traditional sweet puddings, home-made shrimp paste, barbecued cuttlefish, salted egg yokes, and other curios (we saw a dried puffer fish the size of a basketball). Don't forget to get your teeth stuck with tea cakes (cha guo), a peanut-filled sticky glutinous cake.
The Tin Hau temple at the back of Kat Hing Street is small, but still worth a visit.
What to eat:
Tai O Lookout:
Have coffee or a glass of house white in style.
Address: Tai O Heritage Hotel, Shek Tsai Po Street
Shan Shui Beancurd:
Pure tofu, snacks and noodles
Address: 43 Wing On street
How to get there:
MTR station Tung Chung and switch to Bus No. 11 at the bus terminus.
Ferry from Central pier to Mui Wo and switch to Bus No. 1.
Lei Yue Mun
Hong Kongers are some of the nicest neighbors on the planet, though they do not look like it because they always seem to be in a hurry. In the suburban neighbourhood of Lei Yue Mun, everyone seems to know everyone. This closely-knit community is seen in the way kind amiable folk often greet every other random person in the village.
Lei Yue Mun refers to the passage of water between Hong Kong island and Kowloon. Old and sometimes rundown houses here give the village the appearance of a time capsule from the 1950s. Today, many locals still worship at the Tin Hau temple and ask for blessing upon various things in life - business, health, family and relationships. On your way there, watch out you don't trespass into someone's backyard. Then again, you don't have to worry; fiercely protective domestic mongrels will make sure you keep out.
Most people miss Che Teng Tsuen somewhere around the back, where a small trail uphill takes you to Devil's Peak, an abandoned battery that was once used to defend the island from the Japanese invasion during the World War II. If you have no intention to hike that far, park yourself at the beach at sunset and relax by the waterfront.
What to eat:
Wai Yat Store:
Morning snack or afternoon tea of traditional toast, coffee, milk tea and instant noodles before your hike.
Address: 42 Lei Yue Mun Praya Rd
How to get there:
MTR station Yau Tong, take exit A2 and follow the signs to Lei Yue Mun. About 10 minutes walk.
Shek O
Simply put - if you have an unexplainable insatiable appetite for buzzing crowds, lively parties and all things intense, Shek O is your place. On weekends, the beach is nearly packed with beach-goers frolicking around in their sunnies, flip-flops and bikini. Beachside BBQ, baking bronze under the sun, swimming and surfing pretty much sums up the main activities here.
Lifeguards are on duty during the beach's opening hours from 9am to 6pm. It is best to observe the red flags, for the sea's fluffy foamy waves can be deceptively dangerous.
Beyond the beach, Shek O Village is cheerful and alive with cafes and restaurants. Some stores offer locker rental and shower facilities.
The rustic beach community has also been host to the annual Shek O Challenge since 2004, a 2.2 kilometer open water swim from Big Wave Bay to Rocky Bay, in an effort to raise awareness on ocean conservation.
A little walk further out takes you to the headland, lovely for an amazing panoramic view of the mainland. The bus that takes you to Shek O beach also passes through Dragon's Back trail, a fairly easy hike popular with locals on the weekends.
What to eat:
Sai Jai Thai Store:
Grub on the go, grab Thai BBQ sticks here.
Address: 784 Shek O Village
How to get there:
MTR station Shau Kei Wan and switch to Bus No. 9 at the bus terminus.
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