I decided to not let the man north of the border scare me, and shot off for a sunny weekend in Seoul. A bit more time is recommended in the South Korean capital, but in 48 hours you will get a good feel for this charming city, which is full of character, cafes and loveliness.

Distances are not large, the subway system works well and taxis are not expensive, so getting around is easy and fast. People are friendly and the streets are clean.

Day 1 Bukchon/Samcheong-dong & Korean sauna

2pm

I arrive at Rak Ko Jae, a guesthouse in a traditional Korean home or hanok tucked way in a small Bukchon alley full of traditional courtyard homes. The big smile of hostess Whoopi is a wonderful welcome after an early morning start from Shanghai. (Visit www.rkj.co.kr)

3pm

There is no time to waste, even though it is tempting to just stay at the Rak Ko Jae. The local area is first up for exploring. The Bukchon/Samcheong-dong part of town traditionally is a residential area, but a lot is currently happening in terms of commercial gentrification. New shops and restaurants, galleries and cafes open nearly every day, giving the area a vibrant feel that made me immediately fall head over heels for it.

4pm

In this area, you will also find Gyeongbok Palace, the first and the main palace of the Joseon Dynasty. It includes impressive palaces like the Geoncheonggung residence, the Geunjeongjeon or imperial throne hall, and the idyllic Hyangwonjeong Pavilion. With its stone pagodas, some as tall as 10 stories and dating back to the 1300s, and beautiful gardens and lakes, this is a lovely place to take a tranquil moment out from the big city.

6:30pm

Like a well-behaved child, I got back “home” in time for dinner, which was served on the wooden floor outside my master bedroom. On Whoopi’s tray was a selection of Korean specialities, with samgyetang, or boiled chicken with ginseng and rice, as the main course. The chicken was very tender and tasty. I finished it off with a cup of what she called “five flavor tea,” apparently easy to make, but with a complex and exciting taste that was very refreshing.

9pm

Korea is famous for its saunas, or hanjeungmak, and the yellow mud sauna at Rak Ko Jae is the only one left in this area that is still heated with firewood. It creates a very special smell and feel — the fire is lit while guests are enjoying dinner and relaxing in the courtyard. Inside the sauna you just have to take a deep breath, relax and accept that you are sweating like never before, which is, after all, the whole point. Let it out and you will feel very clean and relaxed afterwards.

11pm

Traveling, exploring, eating and drinking, followed by a relaxing sauna session, made an early night the obvious option. Hitting the sack doesn’t mean going to bed, however - the traditional Korean way means sleeping on a cushion or mat on the floor.

Day 2 Jongno area & Namdaemun Market

8:06am

“Good morning, here’s your breakfast!” I just manage to open the double doors to let the sun through before I hear Whoopi’s happy voice, a split second before she appears with my breakfast tray, with porridge and fried mackerel.

While serving the other rooms, Whoopi walks past. “Are you not eating your porridge?” she inquires. Yes, Whoopi, I am eating my porridge. It’s delicious, thanks very much. She keeps an eye out all the time, present but not pushy, in a pleasant way.

9am

After the big breakfast it is time to move the body a bit, and coincidence has it that the hanok is close to Samcheong Park and the Mount Bugaksan, a hill above the city offering excellent views of Seoul. The sun was shining, and what better start than getting a panoramic view of the city about to be explored?

10:30am

Coffee and sweets in Samcheong-dong are well deserved before walking down through Bukchon, but the number of lovely looking places is so large it is hard to choose where. I have never seen so many cafes. Virtually any name that has anything to do with coffee and sweets is represented by an establishment here. Coffee and Sweets, Barista and Dessert, Chocolate and Coffee... To make a cheeky balance, I had a strong espresso in the cheesy, cute Hello Kitty cafe.

12pm

The Jongno area is within walking distance, and walking is the thing to do between the coffee and a lunch on top of Jongno Tower at noon. The Top Cloud on floor 33 offers excellent views, a sleek interior and decent Western food.

1pm

Insa-dong, just by the Jongno Tower, is a lively street (with smaller side streets) featuring traditional Korean handcraft shops, museums, galleries, cafes and street entertainment - the atmosphere here is well worth soaking up.

3pm

You can feel the love in the air at the New Seoul Tower. The tower, on a hill in central Seoul’s Namsan Park, offers stunning views in all directions.

The tower also is considered a romantic pilgrimage and it actually encourages people to leave locks with messages of love on them in designated areas, including metal trees designed for the purpose. The 237-meter tower sits atop Namsan Mountain, which is 243 meters.

5pm

Head back downtown for the charmingly chaotic Namdaemun Market. I was laughing at all the varieties of PSY merchandise, from socks to singing dolls and facial masks - all bound to happen after the singer’s “Gangnam Style” success. Also, pick up some typically Korean chopsticks (the metal ones) and some Korean ginger.

6:30pm

As you emerge from the market on the western side, the Namdaemun (also known as South Gate or Sungnyemun) appears in all its glory. It has been named “South Korea’s top national treasure” and reopened in early May after an arson attack in early 2008 left most of the top floor and some of the lower level destroyed.

This south gate of Seoul was originally built in 1396 and is the oldest wooden structure in the city. The five-year restoration project cost US$22 million, and the gate is again a beautiful monument in the center of Seoul and the pride of its people.

7:30pm

Time for dinner, and the Plaza Hotel, just opposite City Hall in the heart of Seoul, is a highly recommended spot for it. The hotel reopened after a total refurbishment in 2010, and it looks amazing. The Plaza offers six restaurants. I went for the Italian option at the Tuscany on the second floor, and ate my way through an eight-course tasting menu put together by Italian chef Samuel Zucca. Combined with great service in a lovely space, it is a winner. (www.hoteltheplaza.com)

10pm

The busy bar streets of Itaewon are only a short taxi ride away, and after all that food, a few drinks are definitely called for. There are all types of bars and restaurants, from the most chic wine terraces to scruffy pubs and cheap shots places.

Aim for the streets behind the Hamilton Hotel, just by the subway stop. I enjoyed the atmosphere and a good, old Guinness at Baby Guinness after a nice post-dinner glass of wine at Gecko’s Terrace.

Day 3 Gangnam

9am

Get south of the river for a morning walk in the Olympic Park, the main site for the 1988 Olympic Games. The park is bustling with tourists and locals enjoying the lovely green environment and public spaces and sports facilities among the various sports arenas that brings back memories of 1988.

The park also offers a good display of public art, and the World Peace Gate is not to be missed.

Cultural events are also regularly staged at the 145-hectare Olympic Park. I was lucky enough to catch a few free acts as a jazz festival was getting started. (www.olympicpark.co.kr)

10:30am

Cozy cafes and luxury shops dominate the Cheongdam-dong part of Gangnam, where they actually have their own Rodeo Drive, lined with flagship shops from all the expensive designers. The area has a myriad of lovely cafes.

Make sure to stop in one of them and watch life go past for a bit, before hitting the shops, which also include all the high-street brands, and smaller independent shops - in case you got that big bonus just before setting off to Gangnam.

1pm

It’s lunchtime at Moonjar in Sinsa-dong, Gangnam. This place is not to be missed. Try the kimchi pancakes (of course) and makgeolli, a type of rice wine, served in an aluminium bowl. Wonderful! (www.moonjar.co.kr)

2pm

Time’s up, unfortunately. The only comfort is that Incheon is a prize-winning airport known for its architecture and design, so make sure you leave time to check it out after you have checked in.

Ideally, you should have one or two more days, to make sure you can also explore some of the many brilliant museums and galleries, and generally just have time to hang around and enjoying the fantastic city that is Seoul. (www.visitseoul.net)

  How to get there:

There are several daily flights between Shanghai and Seoul, so getting there and back is never a problem. The express train from Incheon Airport into Seoul takes about an hour and is running regularly, and moving around in Seoul is quick and easy by Metro and taxi - or on foot.

  Where to stay:

Spending at least one night in a traditional Korean hanok is highly recommended, and the Rak Ko Jae in Bukchon feels more like a home than a hotel. The gorgeous courtyard around which the four rooms, the wood-heated yellow mud sauna and the kitchen are located makes you just want to spend all your time right there. Opened as a hotel in 2003, the traditional home dates back around 130 years and has kept its real Korean soul. It is successful in offering its guests a truly real Korean experience through carefully considered interior design, fantastically friendly and cheerful staff and organic and tasty traditional Korean food. Book early, however - it’s hugely popular. (www.rkj.co.kr)

Alternatively, try excellent The Plaza in the center of town, opposite City Hall at Seoul Plaza. Originally built in 1976, the hotel is a landmark in the South Korean capital. Do not let the 1970s exterior fool you into thinking it’s old and boring, as a complete redesign by Italian interior designer Guido Ciompi in 2010 transformed it into an amazingly modern and chic boutique hotel. With a total of 410 guestrooms, six restaurants and food outlets, spaces for meetings and events - not least on the top, or 22nd, floor - and fitness and spa facilities, it is the perfect place to sleep, eat, meet and enjoy. (www.hoteltheplaza.com)