Barren hills and turbulent rivers often are the first things that come to mind when speaking of Guizhou Province in southwest China. The out-of-the-way place is actually a mysterious land of strange karst landscapes, sour and spicy food, and an intriguing culture nurtured by the ethnic minorities dwelling in the mountainous area.

The provincial capital city of Guiyang, surrounded by mountains and forests, is an agreeable place to live. As the name suggests, sunshine, or yang, in the city is quite luxurious, or gui. Abundant rainfall makes summer the best time to visit as the average temperature remains around 24 degrees Celsius even during the hottest July.

For many tourists, Guiyang is just a quick stop en route to the magnificent Huangguoshu Waterfall and Xijiang’s ethnic Miao community in the southwest, as well as Libo’s picturesque landscapes of karst — typified by strange rock formations — in the south. Yet the city offers quite a lot to explore, with its combination of appealing cuisines, its own scenic karst areas and simple but exotic ethnic villages.

DAY 1

(GUIYANG DOWNTOWN)

2pm

If you are eager to get out for a refreshing walk after your flight, check out Qianling Mountain Park. Set in downtown Guiyang, the mountain is an exceptional city park with a cheap admission price of 5 yuan (82 cents), soothing views, tranquil walking paths and strange geographic features carved by an ancient glacier. The Qilin cave is where insurgent generals Zhang Xueliang and Yang Hucheng were detained after they started an armed uprising against Kuomintang leader Chiang Kai-shek in the Xi’an Incident of 1936. It is named after the stalactite inside that is shaped like a qilin, or Chinese unicorn, a mythical creature that symbolizes prosperity and serenity. More than 3,000 wild macaques inhabit the mountain. Be careful when you walk among the monkeys as the screeching primates may stop you for food or snatch water bottles or you bags. There have been at least 7,500 attacks from macaques in Qianling Mountain since 2004.

6pm

Dining options abound in downtown Guiyang, which has large shopping malls and plazas, trendy cafes and bars, and restaurants serving many types of cuisine, from savory Guizhou fare to Western food. Jinlusheng Restaurant in the Nanming area is a nice option for nonlocals to have a taste of local cuisine. Its serves most of the local specialties with dishes for all tastes.

8pm

Jiaxiu Pavilion has some of the best night views of Guiyang. The landmark by the Nanming River was originally constructed in 1573, and houses a collection of stone carvings, antiques, calligraphy and painting by ancient intellectuals. Join the locals for a cup of green tea in the teahouse near the pavilion while enjoying the dazzling view. Or take a walk along the river that’s lined with cozy cafes and chic bars.

9:30pm

Many cafes, bars and clubs are located in the Fushui Road area and that’s where the city’s club-goers and partiers gather. Head west to Dashizi (Big Cross) Plaza for some trendy options such as MUSE and Lotus. Foodies will enjoy getting lost in a bewildering variety of snacks offered by dozens of stalls at night. Hailed as a city treasure trove, Guiyang’s night snack streets provide an insight to its culinary culture. Hequn Road is the largest and most renowned night snack location in the city, while Erqi Road is better-organized and orderly. Popular dishes include barbecue, beef rice noodles, clay pot stews, fried tofu balls, ciba (cooked sticky rice pounded into paste), siwawa (sliced vegetables wrapped in a pancake) and roasted fish.

DAY 2

(WUDANG AND KAIYANG AREAS)

10am

Chinese official Cai Lun is credited with inventing paper-making more than 1,900 years ago through numerous improvements to the ancient art. Today, the sophisticated 72-step method is still practiced in the Buyi ethnic villages in Xiangzhi Gorge of Xinbao, in the Wudang area. The locals crush bamboo collected from nearby mountains, and cook, ferment, wash and laminate the fibers to make paper with water wheels and mills in workshops. The whole process takes about three months, and the product they make usually is used as joss paper, also known as spirit money, to be burned for the deceased. Stop by Wanggang Village after leaving Xiangzhi Gorge to have the ethnic paotang, or pig-killing feast. Cooked with all edible parts of a pig, it’s the first dish the locals have when celebrating the New Year.

1:30pm

Time for something exciting! The Nanjiang Grand Canyon in the Kaiyang area is an ideal place for outdoor activity with its many karst formations. The most popular one in summer is canyon rafting. The regular tamer rafting (118 yuan per person) starts at the tourist center at the entrance and takes about an hour and a half. The more adventurous white-water trip (168 yuan per person) lasts about twice as long and goes through swifter sections of the canyon. Rock climbing lovers likely will enjoy the Tianzi (Ladder) Rock, a 70m-high cliff with a face of almost 90 degrees. Winter is a good time to experience the beauty of the natural karst formations. Visitors can explore the waterfalls that seem to magically sprout from the rock and the vitality of the plants that grow on the rocks as the Nanjiang River roaming the peaceful valley below.

5pm

It’s a 10-minute drive from the canyon to the Buyi ethnic villages along the Qinglong River. There are more than 10 villages of Buyi people, collectively called Shili Hualang, or Ten-li Gallery. A li is an ancient Chinese measurement that’s half a kilometer long. Visitors can hike from the first village, Fenghuang Village, to the tea mountain if time permits. Bike rentals are available in the villages. Fenghuang and Shuitou villages have clean, locally owned accommodations and decently equipped boutique hotels and guesthouses. Join the locals in a round-table dinner and take a sip of the homemade white liquor, which has a lovely name of biang-dang. Try not to indulge too much since the liquor has a strong delayed effect. It got its name because the imbiber may not feel a thing until he stands up and “bang,” falls to the ground.

8pm

Try your hand at a local mahjong table if you are looking to kill some time. Guizhou people’s strong passion for the game is no less intense than that of Sichuan people, who are known nationwide for the game. A mahjong table is a must in the private rooms of almost every restaurant. The basic rules are easy to remember, and the rookies are said to have the Midas touch.

DAY 3

(HUAXI AREA)

9am

Start a one-day trip in the Huaxi (Flower Creek) area with its signature food — beef rice noodles. Changwangmian, or noodle with pig intestines and processed blood, is also among the alternatives.

10am

Take a stroll at Huaxi National Wetland Park, 17 kilometers from Guiyang’s downtown. Built along the Huaxi River, it’s the largest wetland park in southwest China. Walk upstream to the Huaxi reservoir for some beautiful scenery. The walk, lined with old trees, is called the Golden Avenue, and is a favorite haunt for lovers. Swimmers ignore the “no swimming” sign and young would-be artists on the bank capture the scene with their paint brushes. Take a seat at a food stall near the river, and have some roasted dried tofu, moyu (konjac root) and huangba (yellow sticky rice cakes). Mahjong tables are put up under shade trees in summer.

2pm

Tianhe Pool is another big draw in Huaxi. Though the waterfalls here are not as powerful and grand as the acclaimed Huangguoshu Fall in Guizhou, Tianhe Pool is still an enchanting place, with the widest calcified-rock waterfall in the country. Visitors can easily spend the whole afternoon exploring the hundred-stone bridge, karst caves and colorful water pools not unlike those of Jiuzhaigou in Sichuan Province. The karst caves tour includes a 1,000m boat trip winding through the water caves, and a 2,000m walk inside the dry caves. Both feature fascinating stalactites and stalagmites.

6pm

Getting together with friends around a steaming hotpot can beat back the winter chill. Huaxi has various kinds of hotpot to offer, including sour beef, tofu, goose, doumi (white kidney bean and fried streaky pork) and the typical sour soup fish of the Miao ethnic people.

9pm

Shili Hetan, or Ten-li Riverbank, the 12km-long open linear park along Huaxi Avenue, is not only an ideal place for a leisurely stroll, but also a decent option for a drink. There are some good places that are easy on the budget around Guizhou University and Guizhou Minzu University.

DAY 4

(QINGYAN OLD TOWN)

10am

One of the four ancient towns in Guizhou Province, Qingyan is nothing like the graceful water towns in southern China. Built in 1378 as a military fortress by a chieftan of a Buyi tribe, it is built with mountain stones. The houses also are constructed of stones and tiles. Take a walk down zigzag stone alleyways that seem to lead nowhere but always take you on a new journey. The alleyways were the setting for Chinese actor Jiang Wen as he looked for his gun in the 2002 suspense film “The Missing Gun.” What makes Qingyan especially harmonious is its embrace of different cultures. Buddhist and Taoist temples stand in harmony with Catholic and other Christian churches in this 3-square-kilometer town.

12pm

For most locals in Guiyang, the most appealing part of Qingyan town is the food. Take a bite of the braised pork knuckle and have a spoon of rose bingfen (a jelly desert made with seeds). Do not miss the fragrant and sweet gaoba xifan, which is a mix of lotus root starch with steamed flour paste, topped with white sesame, rose petals and nuts. Sticky rose candy wrapped in white sesame and jilajiao (fried chilies with chicken) make great gifts for friends and family.

If you go

How to get there:

China Eastern Airlines and Juneyao Airlines travel daily between Shanghai and Guiyang. The flight takes no more than three hours.

  Where to stay:

Downtown Guiyang has a range of five-star and luxury hotel brands, including Sheraton, Novotel, Kempinski, Pullman and Ramada Plaza. For budget travelers, Jinlusheng on Baoshan Road S. is a nice option.

The Shili Hetan area in Huaxi offers some clean and well-equipped accommodations, such as the Cai Ge Tang boutique hotel (4000-2611-86, 0851-8506-588).

Shuitou Village along the Qinglong River in Kaiyang area has renovated a stretch of local houses for tourist accommodations. Among them is Indigo Lodge, a sunny, eight-guestroom wooden boutique. (indigoculture.com)

  Travel tips:

Guizhou locals have a long tradition of eating dog meat, especially in winter. There are a few restaurants serving dog meat in Guiyang, but not many. Because the practice is controversial, tour guides at scenic spots will tend to avoid these places when showing tourists around.

Taking a cab in Guiyang can be quite challenging. Cabbies often refuse customers if they are on a shift change or the destination is too near. Be prepared for the drivers to pick up other passengers during the trip and remember to insist that they charge by the meter.

  What to eat:

Sour soup fish: The typical Miao ethnic dish is a must for first-time travelers to Guiyang. Cuisines of ethnic minorities inhabiting the mountainous area have made a great contribution to Guizhou’s colorful culinary culture, and include hot, spicy and sour flavors. The sour soup usually is of three kinds, red soup made with tomatoes or made with chilies, and white soup. Popular restaurants serving authentic sour soup fish include Lao Kai Li (55 Shengfu Road), Miao Xiang Cun (79 Gongyuan Rd N.) and Ding Guan Cheng (near Longdongbao Airport).

Huaxi beef rice noodles: A signature local specialty, beef rice noodles are to Huaxi what beef noodles are to Lanzhou residents in Gansu Province, and yangrou paomo (mutton soup with Chinese bread) to Xi’an people in Shaanxi Province. A bowl of soothing hot rice noodles cooked in rich broth transforms a local snack into a breakfast delight. The two popular eateries for beef rice noodles in Huaxi, Wang’s and Fei Wan, can both be found at the wet market on Huakuo Road.

Siwawa (sliced vegetables with pancakes): Siwawa, the name of this renowned Guiyang snack, describes the pancake swaddling the ingredients as if they were a baby. Just like with roasted Beijing duck, diners pick different vegetables and other ingredients and wrap them in a pancake. Siwawa restaurants have a variety of sauces and vegetables. Cuishao (deep fried streaky pork granules) and zhe’ergen (the root of a local plant literally “stinky fish grass”) are among the locals’ favorites. Si Zhi Wei on Hengfeng Road and Aunt Yang’s Restaurant on Feishan Street are among the top hits.

Jilajiao (fried chilies with chicken): Guizhou, home to nationally and even internationally known Lao Gan Ma chili sauce, is no doubt among the top provinces in China in chili consumption. The locals have countless ways of preparing chilies, some as part of dishes, others as sauces. Sauce is quite crucial to Guizhou cuisine. Different dishes have their own sauces. Fried chilies with chicken from Qingyan old town is a good example of Guizhou’s art of using chilies as an ingredient. The best jilajiao can be found in the store at the town’s north gate.

Changwangmian (noodles with pork intestines and blood): The heavy, oily breakfast has a history of more than 120 years. Chewy noodles are buried under a thick layer of chili oil, toppled with marinated pork intestines and blood, cuishao and bean sprouts. A dish of refreshing sour radish helps to balance all the spices and oils. Recommended places to have the noodles include the Jiang’s on Shanghequn Road (near Guiyang No. 5 Middle School), Nan Men Kou on Xiahuguo Road and the Liu’s on Baoshan Road S.