BAGAN in central Myanmar has long been renowned for its thousands of ancient temples, pagodas and other Buddhist sites, more than 2,000 of which still exist. Liu Xiaolin makes a pilgrimage.

Almost all my friends thought I was insane when I told them I was going to Myanmar on vacation. "Is it dangerous?" was the question I kept hearing. In the eyes of many Chinese people, the southeast Asian country is most often associated with drug trafficking, domestic riots and poverty.

But perceptions can be misleading. For Myanmar - formerly Burma - which shares borders with the ancient civilizations India and China and was a British colony, is a cultural gem.

And as the country has sought to encourage tourism in recent years, it is attracting growing numbers of visitors. Last year, Myanmar featured among the top 10 travel destinations chosen by media organizations such as Lonely Planet and CNN.

According to recent figures, the country received 260,000 visits from foreigners from January to October last year - a year-on-year rise of almost 50 percent.

Foreign visitors are flocking to Myanmar to savor its idyllic - and still not over-developed - beauty spots. In many parts of Myanmar tradition still holds sway: men wear lungi skirts knotted around the waist; women carry fruit and vegetables on their heads and apply thanaka ground bark to protect them from the sun.

And I was also attracted by a claim in a travel journal that, "if there are any places in the world where people would chase you all the way just to return your wallet with no charge, Myanmar is one of them."

As dawn broke on the horizon, the sleeping city of Bagan started to awaken. The forms of numerous pagodas scattered over the vast red earth plain gradually emerged from the morning mist. This breathtaking sunrise in "the city of ten thousand pagodas," reminded me - and perhaps many other Chinese - of "Spring South of the Yangtze River," a poem by Tang Dynasty (AD 618–907) poet Du Mu (AD 803-852).

This describes the 480 temples of the Southern Dynasty (AD 420-589) seemingly suspended in early spring rain mist.

The Southern Dynasty has long disappeared into history and those temples no longer exist. Yet Du Mu's poetic scene is magically brought back to life here in Bagan.

Stretching along the left bank of the middle reaches of the Irrawaddy River, Bagan, together with Yangon, Mandalay and Inle Lake, are the "big four" beguiling destinations in Myanmar.

Founded in AD 849, it was home to Myanmar's first feudal kingdom, the Bagan Kingdom. King Anawratha unified ethnic groups such the Burmese, Mon and the Pyu in 1044 and conquered the arid part in the middle of the country.

Art and architecture flourished during the Bagan Period, until the kingdom was toppled by a Mongolian invasion in the late 13th century.

It is said that more than 10,000 pagodas were built here between the 11th and 13th century but 80 percent were damaged or destroyed by a 6.8-magnitude earthquake in 1975.

Today, more than 2,000 are still standing, some following years of renovation. Along with Angkor Wat in Cambodia and Borobudur in Indonesia, Bagan is one of southeast Asia's three greatest ancient temple and pagoda complexes.

However, it is the only one of the three still awaiting recognition as a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

One reason why the United Nations organization vetoed Bagan's application is because it said development, including a golf course, a six-star resort and a viewing tower, damaged the integrity of the ancient city.

Today, most sites are found in the ancient Old Bagan area. Others are scattered all the way to Nyaung U, transport gateway to the area.

Pagodas built in the early Bagan Period are mostly found along the Irrawaddy River, while later ones stretch far inland.

One of the best ways to get a taste of Bagan's landscape is by hot-air balloon. Just before dawn and before sunset, balloons take off from Nyang U for an enchanting bird's-eye view.

The 45-minute "Balloon over Bagan" flight costs around US$300. Travel agencies may get a discount.

For tourists and backpackers with a limited budget, a horse-drawn carriage and cycling are popular alternatives.

My two-day laid-back tour kicked off - or rather trotted off - on a jolting horse-drawn trip to the ancient monuments. As the horse did all the hard work, I stretched out on a cushion, listening to driver and tour guide Min Thu explain Bagan's history, art and culture in fluent English.

A graduate in economics from Mandalay University, he returned to his home town due to high living costs in Mandalay and has been engaged in tourism for more than a decade.

Min Thu knows the city like the back of his hand, constantly finding me perfect spots for photographs where the light and angles are just right.

Bagan's historic structures, though mostly made of brick with clay mortar, plastered with stucco, vary in scale and design. They can be divided into five basic types: stupas, temples, monasteries, ordination halls and libraries.

Under the shade of a tree outside the famous Sulamani Pahto temple, Min Thu explained with a notebook full of handwritten notes and illustrations.

Stupas are generally solid structures that can't be entered, said to contain sacred Buddhist relics in the core. Temples, in most cases, can be entered. Monastery styles include a two-story building with a timber pavilion or a building with a rectangular courtyard and cells for monks.

Ordination halls and libraries are rarely seen in Bagan nowadays. Upalithein on the Bagan-Nyang U Road is one of a handful of ordination halls that still exist. It has an ornate wooden roof in typical Burmese style. Inside are two Buddha images and frescoes. The hall is not open to the public.

Exquisite frescoes are found in the elegant Sulamani Pahto - in English, "jewels of the crown." Featuring some of the finest ornamental works in Bagan, the temple epitomizes late Bagan Period, viewed by many as the zenith of the style. Stucco sculptures and relief carvings decorate its facade.

Corridor walls are adorned with frescoes depicting the Buddha sitting, reclining and walking, a combination rarely seen in Bagan. On the southeast walls are paintings dating from the Konbaung Dynasty in the 18th century, presenting details of local life, such as the King's progress in dragon boats.

However, large numbers of Bagan's historic structures are closed to visitors. "Many temples and pagodas have been locked by archaeologists (for preservation)," said Min Thu, with a note of regret. "We used to climb on top of every one in the past."

But of course the pagodas are still a big draw, he added.

"To make a wish?" I asked.

"Wish?" Min Thu answered with a big laugh. "We don't wish, we come here to pay respect. People here believe in karma."

The grandest temple in Bagan is Dhammayangyi Temple, a spectacular red-brick structure that resembles an Egyptian pyramid from a distance.

It was built by usurper King Narathu, who reigned between 1167 and 1170. Having brutally slain his father and brother to take the throne, he was seeking inner peace and to make atonement.

It is said Narathu oversaw construction himself and killed masons if a single needle could inserted between bricks they had laid.

However, chronicles say Narathu, who had also killed his wife, was assassinated by his vengeful Indian father-in-law before work was finished.

The temple was never finished and Narathu became known as "Kalagya Min" - the king killed by the Indians.

Sunset spots

An ideal Bagan trip ends with watching the sun go down. There's a saying among tourists there: "If you only stay in Bagan for one day, go watch the sunset in Shwesandaw Paya; If you can stay in Bagan for two days, go watch the sunset again in Shwesandaw Paya." The five-story pagoda is crowded around sunset and the stairs steep, so leave plenty time.

Bupaya is a quieter option. The gourd-shaped gilded pagoda was rebuilt after the 1975 earthquake sent it tumbling into the river.

You're never going to visit every pagoda or temple on a short tour in Bagan, so here are some of the best:

Shwezigon Paya:

The biggest in Bagan, Shwezigon's bell-shaped gilded pagoda was the prototype for later pagodas all over Myanmar. Construction began in the reign of King Anawrahta, and finished during the reign of his son, King Kyanzittha (1084-1113). The three rising terraces at the base of the pagoda are decorated with relief carvings featuring Jatakas, previous lives of the Buddha. There are also depiction of 37 nats - pre-Buddhist spirits.

Ananda Pahto:

This is representative of Mon architecture during the early Bagan period. A corn-shaped pagoda in a style from India, Ananda houses four 10-meter gilded standing Buddha statues. When illuminated after dark it acquires a more mysterious and solemn air.

Thatbyinnyu Pahto

Bagan's second largest temple, as well as its landmark. The magnificent soaring white temple - standing 66 meters high - is a classic example of mid-Bagan architecture. Unlike earlier sites such as Ananda, the double-storey temple breaks symmetry, with its eastern portico projecting further than the others.

Golden Cuckoo:

The family-run lacquer ware workshop in Myinkaba Village, south to Old Bagan, produces delicate hand-made lacquer ware featuring traditional designs and techniques. Most objects are bamboo covered with lacquer, with a number of high-end goods made of lacquered woven horse hair. The owner will show you around the workshop and explain to you the process. A good place to stock up on souvenirs.

If you go

Travel tips:

Between October and February is the best time to travel in Myanmar, as temperatures are relatively pleasant with rain at a minimum.

Travel agencies are well established and can help customize your itinerary, arrange accommodation and make airline reservations.

Respect local customs by wearing knee-length skirts and trousers and taking off shoes and socks before entering Buddhist buildings.

How to get there:

Nyaung U is the major gateway for Bagan, whether by air, road or sea. Domestic airlines such as Air Bagan, Air KBZ, Yangon Airways and Air Mandalay offer services from Yangon, taking about 80 minutes. Flights from Mandalay take less than 30 minutes. Ask your hotel to check with the airline the day before departure as flights in Myanmar are often delayed or canceled without notice.

Taxis from the airport to Nyaung U, Old Bagan and New Bagan charge 5,000 kyat (US$5.82), 6,000 kyat and 7,000 kyat respectively.

Long-distance coaches are a cheaper option - eight hours from Mandalay to Nyang U and 14 from Yangon. If time permits, a boat trip is a good choice for enjoying the views along the Irrawaddy River.

Where to stay:

Nyaung U has an array of cheap, clean and good-quality hostels and guest houses, while Old Bagan boasts some of the best accommodation in Bagan, with river views and easy access to ancient pagodas and temples.

Bagan Thande Hotel: Inside Old Bagan, Bagan Thande Hotel sits on the east bank of Irrawaddy River, within walking distance of the Archaeological Museum.

Its restaurant is housed in a pavilion built for the visit of Britain's Prince of Wales - later King Edward VIII - in 1922. The resort provides comfortable teakwood bungalows surrounded by manicured gardens and a pool.

Shaded by trees, the riverfront restaurant is an ideal spot to watch the sun rise or set, while crows caw and squirrels leap around among branches.

Bagan Thiripyitsaya Sanctuary Resort: This resort offers a range of four-room bungalow-style duplexes with wooden decking.

There's also a huge pool and a well-tended Japanese-style courtyard. Meals are served on a terrace overlooking the Irrawaddy. Highlights include a soothing Myanmar massage.

Where to eat:

Sarabha I: Of the two Sarabha restaurants near the Tharabar Gate, Sarabha I is recommended for its pleasant setting, friendly staff and abundant options, such as Myanmar, Thai and Chinese, not forgetting pizza.

But be prepared to do battle with flies for your meal, a common scenario when dining al fresco in Myanmar.

Star Beam: Sited north to the Ananda Pahto, this family-run diner ranks top on Trip Advisor.com. Tables are set out in a small garden, under the trellis. It's a real gem with hearty food and refreshing juices, especially welcome on an energy-sapping cycle outing.