PALM-FRINGED southern Sri Lanka boasts some of the Indian Ocean's most beautiful coastline, and in 400-year-old Galle Fort a traditional European town transported to the tropics and given Asian influences. Patsy Yang explores the battlements and beaches. A sense of romance and out-of-this-world tranquility sweeps up visitors to Sri Lanka's southern coastline, which combines the 400-year-old Galle Fort with a succession of golden beaches.

These include Unawatuna, Koggala, Weligama, Mirissa, Matara and Tangalla; each offering their own attractions.

The tourism industry in Sri Lanka has shown strong signs of picking up over the past three years, following the end of a 30-year civil war. Southern Sri Lanka is one of the favored stops among foreign tourists.

Galle Fort's rich history, colors, texture and sensations make it a must-visit destination along the coastline.

Unlike anywhere else in the country, it resembles a quaint medieval European town unexpectedly deposited in tropical Asia.

A UNESCO World Heritage Site since 1988, Galle Fort was renowned for centuries as one of the key trading ports of call in the area.

A gateway to the Orient, during the 19th century, up to 700 passengers disembarked each day from steamers, thronging the narrow streets and bazaars behind Gall Fort's ramparts to trade sapphires, rubies and other precious gems, pillow lace, pepper, spices such as cinnamon, cardamom, nutmeg, cloves and carved ebony.

There are many stories about how the town acquired the name Galle. According to one version, a Portuguese sailor who was lookout in a ship's crow's nest first sighted its natural harbor.

Tradition has it that he spotted a rooster crowing on a rock on the promontory now known as Ruumassala. Impressed by the sight of the bird in its scenic surroundings the sailor is said to have cried out "Galla - buonovista!" or "Rooster - a beautiful sight!" in English.

The other version is that the name is based on "gaala", in the Sinhalese language, meaning "a herd of cattle" or a place where cattle were herded.

The first fortifications were built in 1588 by the Portuguese, then strengthened by the Dutch during the 17th century, after they captured Galle in 1640.

In 1796, the Dutch handed over the Fort to the British without a shot fired.

Covering an area of 36 hectares, Galle Fort is a walled town within a town. It has an amazing collection of European structures dating back centuries, enclosing several museums, a clock tower, churches, mosques, a temple, a lighthouse and several hundred private dwellings.

Wandering the fort walls yields one architectural surprise after another, as Galle town is a living museum with a buzz of energy in the air.

Its rich history has seen a succession of colorful characters come and go. Swashbuckling adventurers and traders, the Portuguese, the Dutch, the English, all have left an indelible stamp on the history and character of the town. Their cultural influence remains palpable amidst the stone ramparts, massive bastions, pepper pot towers and baronial style gateways.

Stroll the ramparts

This living historical city is a place where Muslims run businesses alongside Buddhists, Roman Catholics, Tamils and in many cases have mixed marriages.

To best experience Galle Fort, throw away all ideas of an itinerary. Instead, stroll the ramparts and discover the daily life of the town as you pass churches, mosques and some 375 original Dutch colonial houses.

But if you don't want to miss any prescribed site, make a circuit of the walls clockwise starting at the Amangalla hotel.

While it might take several hours to explore, this can be carried out in a leisurely, relaxing manner on foot.

In bygone days, ladies and gentlemen would board horse-drawn carriages and head to the colonial building known in 1863 as the world-famous Oriental Hotel.

Later renamed the New Oriental Hotel and now known as Amangalla, it overlooks Galle's inner harbor from atop the eastern ramparts of the ancient Dutch Fort. For many visitors the island's oldest surviving hotel is an exotic haven, exuding a romantic past.

In 1863, a consortium of British businessmen acquired the imposing three-storied former Dutch and latterly British garrison building (built in 1684 as headquarters for the Dutch commander and his officers) at the junction of Church Street and Middle Street.

They set up the European-style Oriental Hotel, but despite its worldwide reputation, by the 1890s it had fallen on hard times.

In 1899 it was sold to a shrewd local businessman, beginning the connection between the New Oriental Hotel and the Ephraums family of Galle, which would last unbroken for almost a century.

Today, the hotel has been restored by Aman Resorts to reflect the genteel ambience of a bygone era, where colonial charm and Sri Lanka's rich culture perfectly combined.

Among highlights for visitors is the chance to sip a mango Bellini on the airy veranda overlooking the ramparts or sunbathing in the chic hotel garden.

Most pieces of furniture are either original antiques from the original New Oriental Hotel or careful reproductions set on the original 300-year-old polished teak or jack wood floors.

A library features an extensive range of books on history, arts, culture and communities of Sri Lanka as well as an eclectic collection of memorabilia from the archives of the old hotel, offering an insight into the history of the buildings, the Fort and the town of Galle.

Mix of European and Asian

Like the multi-cultural Dutch colonial society that created them, the hotel and other surviving buildings in Galle Fort are not really typical of the Netherlands, but rather combine a mix of European and Asian influences.

Right next to the hotel is the Dutch Reformed Church, a beautiful gabled building completed in 1755. There are many notable features in the church, including the organ loft - sadly no longer in use, and the absence of any pillars inside the gabled roof has impressed many over the years. There are also numerous tombstones and memorial tablets on the walls and floors.

Across the road, you find the bell tower and next door to the church is the Galle Library which houses numerous valuable old books.

One of Asia's oldest post offices, the Post Office of Galle next door is still open for business, from where visitors can send beautiful Galle postcards.

From here it's just a short stroll beneath shady rain trees along the imposing spice warehouses to the Old Gate, which encapsulates some of the town's history.

It bears the Dutch coat of arms of two rampant lions, dated 1669 along with the VOC - Vereenigde Oost-Indische Compagnie - emblem of the Dutch East Indies Company, crowned by a rooster. The British coat of arms on the outside of the gate dates from 1795 and is framed by two majestic banyan trees.

Continue southward, with views over old Galle harbor to the east, to reach the 20-meter-tall lighthouse, built by the British in 1934, which dominates Point Utrecht Bastion at the fort's south-eastern corner.

It is from here that daredevil "fort jumpers" hurl themselves from a scary height into shallow water.

A key part of Galle Fort's allure lies in its community; the shop and hotel owners, the three-wheeler taxi operators and gem traders who bring in visitors keen to explore the narrow streets lined with old houses displaying a Dutch heritage with pillared verandas.

To gain an insight into Galle Fort heritage and traditions, head to the Historical Mansion on 31-39 Leyn Baan Street.

At this quirky art gallery yard you can watch a local woman demonstrating the intricacies of Portuguese and Dutch-style lacemaking, while on the opposite side, see jewelry makers hand setting gem stones. Several rooms inside the mansion are packed with colonial artifacts, items from shipwrecks, plus the raw gemstones Sri Lanka is known for.

Galle is an ideal base for exploring the beaches along the coast. Driving east from Galle Fort, the road runs close to the coast through Unawatuna, Koggala, Weligama, Matara to Tangalla. There are plenty beautiful stretches of virtually deserted beaches and an abundance of swimming, snorkeling and sunbathing opportunities, plus a chance to watch whales and visit wildlife and local temples.

Along the coast from Unawatuna to Koggala, you can see the famous stilt fishermen perching precariously like storks above the waves at high tide.

Busy harbors make for an interesting visit, with daily fish, fruit and vegetable markets providing a colorful insight into real Sri Lankan life.

The southern coastline is lined with international beach resorts and bustling Asian fishing towns. One of the best stretches for spending a few days and lying on the coconut-colored sand washed by lazy azure waters is the bays of the small port of Tangalle. These have some of the best beaches on the southern coastal belt with pristine aquamarine waters of the Indian Ocean.

Amangalla's sister hotel Amanwella is situated amidst a mature coconut grove fronting a crescent-shaped beach close to Tangalle. This is a well-kept secret for most discerning travelers who dream of a perfect escape for the pleasure of not doing much at all.


If you go

Where to stay in Galle Fort and the south coast

Amangalla

First opened in 1863 as the Oriental Hotel, it is considered the oldest hotel in Sri Lanka and one of the most famous landmarks inside Galle Fort.Aman Resorts bought the property in 2002, restoring and opening in 2005 as Amangalla.

It has respected, down to the finest detail, the heritage and appeal of its predecessor, through restoring original features and furnishing the polished jack wood floor with fine antiques and period-style reproductions.

Elegant and oozing history, the ambience of a bygone era attracts tourists keen to experience the tasteful colonial-style suites and bedrooms and fine dining. Guests can read about the hotel's past and the arts and history of Sri Lanka in the library.

The hotel also offers daily programs catering different needs.

These include everything from Ayurveda treatments, poolside relaxation, yoga and meditation to guided historic walks inside the fort, and trips to villages and a tea plantation.

Kahanda Kanda

This is a hideaway retreat perched on a ridge overlooking Koggala Lake with sweeping views over a tea estate.

From the moment you arrive, you feel any stress start to melt away, promise the owners.

The eight suites are spread among several pavilions in the garden, which ensure maximum privacy. Indulgent, spacious and ethnically stylish, each suite is beautifully designed, with canopied beds, day beds built into windowsills, beautiful Asian artwork, antiques and private gardens.

Amanwella

Close to the village of Tangalle on the coast, Amanwella is one of the best secrets and one of the best resorts in the country, say the owners.

It comprises 30 suites with private terraces and plunge pools. The resort's golden sand beach is located in an 800-meter crescent-shaped cove, fringed with palm tress. For surfers, the best waves are between May and November. Where to dine

Mama's Guest House

This has a lovely view from the roof terrace over the Fort and the ramparts, and serves great curry and rice in a family setting.

(76 Leyn Baan St, Fort)

Kahanda Kanda

It is a beautiful inland villa high atop an old tea plantation outside Galle. They serve lunch in their open pavilion with views over Kogalla Lake.



Wijaya Beach

A 15-minute drive south of the Fort, this is a popular beach bar serving the freshest seafood and salads overlooking the beach.

They have fresh deliveries of crabs, clams and fish and they also make great pizzas.

What to do in Galle

Shopping

Galle Fort is one of the best places to shop in the country, from jewelry, gifts and homeware to clothes and antiques.

Laksana (30, Hospital St, Fort) is one of the best jewelers in town, featuring beautiful Sri Lankan stones, good designs and top craftsmen.

Fashion Gems (Church St) sells something a bit different, using uncut stones and unusual designs with high-quality silversmith work. Barefoot (on the corner of Church St and Pedlar St) is one of Sri Lanka's most famous shops, selling hand-woven fabrics and designs as well as the best selected books on the island.

Souk 58 (58 Church St) is a stylish lifestyle shop with contemporary Sri Lankan designs, ranging from homeware to clothing. Recommended buys in the town include body and hair treatment products from the premium spa lifestyle brand Spa Ceylon and the book "Around The Fort in 80 Lives" which depicts the history and vivid life in Galle Fort. This involved the novel approach of going from building to building interviewing people about their family history and current circumstances.

Ayurvedic consultation and treatment

Amangalla's consulting doctor uses Ayurvedic techniques to determine an individual's current condition as well as any imbalances.

The practitioner prepares a personalized treatment program and prescribes Ayurvedic remedies if necessary. It can be tailored from three days to two weeks, combining physical treatments including medication and massage. Recommendations also include yoga, meditation and a vegetarian diet.