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November 24, 2012

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Licensed to ... thrill the senses

PHUKET islanders are proud of their "three S's" - sand, sea and sunshine. But Thailand's largest island has many other attractions, from a village built on stilts over the waves to weird and wonderful geological features, including one made famous by 007 himself. Zhou Yubin has them in her sights.

Much of the drive from Phuket International Airport to the island's downtown takes you through typical small towns, similar to ones in south China. With their small homely restaurants and inns and tall palm trees, everything seems so quiet and, well ... ordinary.

But once we start to head toward the coast, something stunning appears on the horizon: the peaceful-looking, dark green Indian Ocean.

Nestled in the tropical zone off the west coast of southern Thailand in the Andaman Sea, Phuket, at around 543 square kilometers, is the country's largest island. Often known as the "Pearl of the Andaman," it is one of the most popular get-away beach destinations in Asia. Phuket people are proud of their three S's: sand, sea and sunshine. Taking a walk along the beach, breathing the fresh air and feeling the soft sand between your toes will quickly take you away from day-to-day routines and pressures and let you embrace nature.

While it is sea and sand that attracts many thousands of tourists from around the world each year, what also makes Phuket special is its mountainous landscape. As its name indicates - derived from the word "bukit", which means "hill" in Malay - around 70 percent of Phuket is covered in hills and small mountains, with numerous rocky outcrops and islets in the sea around it.

As you arrive by air, you can watch these emerging from the ocean, like chess pieces on a large, dark green chess board.

Rocky peninsulas, limestone cliffs, white clean beaches and tropical forests are the signature of Phuket. And if you want to see all these at one time, Phang Nga Bay is a good choice. A day-trip is enough to experience the unique beauty of this area.

Speed boats at numerous locations will take you there; our morning trip to Phang Nga Bay takes about an hour of bumping along the waves. Shortly after you set out, the limestone peaks begin to appear in front of you. They come in different shapes: some point up to the sky; others resemble animals - monkeys, tigers and sheep, depending on your imagination. The combination of water and the cliffs has led to Phang Nga Bay being given another name: Small Guilin.

Of course it's different from Guilin in Guangxi Zhuang Autonomous Region in China, where the Li River cuts into numerous mountains close to each other. Here, the peaks are more widely spaced in the ocean. But no matter which direction you look in, there is always a green hill in front of you.

You can easily spend an hour or two just taking a leisurely trip cruising around and trying to distinguish one cliff from the other. But don't miss the hottest landmark - James Bond Island, which is most certainly licensed to thrill.

It found fame after featuring in the 1974 James Bond movie "The Man with the Golden Gun." The island is called Koh Tapu, but everyone knows the area by its secret agent name. Nowadays, tourists come there to take pictures of its famous James Bond rock.

Narrow at the bottom and wide at the top, it resembles a huge Chinese cabbage, and makes you wonder how it seems to defy gravity.

The rock itself is worth seeing for its unique shape, but with a backdrop of pure blue sky and the vast sea, its natural beauty is magnified.

Close by is Koh Ping Ghan, another natural wonder, this time in the shape of a high leaning rock with small caves inside.

If you want to explore the area up close, a canoe is a good choice. There are numerous boats bobbing around offering canoes with a crewman for hire.

Just get off the speedboat and hop onto a canoe, letting the paddler take you to the quietest spaces hidden behind the limestone cliffs. In some area, you can get so close to the rocks that you can touch the moss on them. Entering the low and dark caves is the most interesting part. Be sure to duck really low to avoid getting a whack on the head from low-hanging rocks.

Traveling by canoe is an interesting experience. Just lie on your back, look up to the clear sky and feel the ocean's swell below you.

The sensation is so relaxing that you might be tempted to take a quick nap.

After the cruise in Phang Nga Bay, stop at Koh Panyee for a quick lunch and a look at the unique lifestyle of the Muslim villagers there.

Koh Panyee is a small island mostly composed of monumental limestone cliffs.

The scarcity of suitable land for building has seen hundreds of shacks, restaurants and houses built on stilts in the surrounding shallow sea. No one seems quite sure how many wooden and concrete piles hold up this extraordinary community.

A salty breeze pervades, and having lunch in a restaurant there you can see the ocean through gaps between the floorboards. Restaurants are run by local residents and the food has a welcoming, home-made style.

The villagers of Koh Panyee are descendants of three founding families who used to live on fishing from this isolated small island. Nowadays, many work in restaurants and gift shops, but retain much of their quiet lifestyle.

The village has its own school, a mosque and health center and a tour can give an insight into local life.

After cruising around the ocean, you will still have time to go back to the beach and enjoy a fine dinner while you watch the sunset.

If you go

How to get there:

There are direct flight from Shanghai and Beijing to Phuket International Airport. You can also choose to fly to Bangkok first, stay a few days there, then fly to Phuket.

Where to stay:

JW Marriott Phuket Resort & Spa

The five-star resort has a private beach, elegant landscaping and decor and offers everything you need from a beachside resort. The resort, located on the tranquil Mai Khao Beach, has a stunning view of the Andaman Sea and is only 15 minutes from the airport. With six restaurants and five bars, it serves international, Italian, Japanese, Thai cuisine. It also offers facilities for different type of travelers, such as separate VVIP meeting rooms for teambuilding trips.

Tips:

1. Plan your trip between November to April as the rest of the year is the rainy season.

2. Bring suncream, sunglasses and insect repellent, especially if you plan to have a romantic outdoor dinner.

3. Take water-proof plastic covers for your cameras and phones for the speedboat cruise.

4. Don't eat too much before the speedboat trip as the sea might get choppy and leave you a little queasy.

5. Avoid buying souvenirs at popular tourist spots such as James Bond Island. Local markets have better and cheaper options.

6. Thai service staff are helpful and friendly, especially if you remember tips - usually between 20 to 50 Baht (65US cents-US$1.6).


Something for everyone

Phuket Island has a lot to offer besides simply enjoying the beach, sunshine and sea. There are activities for everyone, whether you are traveling alone or in a big family group. Here are some suggestions:

Solo travelers:

While sand and sea are the perfect antidote to daily stresses, this doesn't mean you need to lie on the beach every day. Why not enroll in a yoga class? You don't need to have any experience; just stretch under the blue sky, breathing the fresh air while facing the vast ocean. A short class of 30 minutes to an hour will help you regain energy.

Couples:

Phuket has long been a popular honeymoon destination for couples. It offers perfect intimate walks along the beach, romantic dinners facing the sunset and relaxing Thai massage. You can also enroll in a cooking class and together learn to make typical Thai food, such as massamun curry and tom yum goong. (This may be especially useful for new couples, as they can discover who's going to make the best chef once they get back home!)

Families:

Phuket is a paradise for children to explore and for families to spend quality time together. Activities include elephant riding, visiting national parks and the island's aquarium, rafting and cycling.

Teambuilding:

Teambuilding on a tropical island sounds just a little too luxurious, but it's becoming a trend, especially for big global companies seeking a high-profile, feel-good destination. Phuket has a large range of resorts and hotels with conference facilities, which makes official annual meetings - as well as fun events - possible.


 

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