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September 9, 2015

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Modernity and tradition come together in Frankfurt

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THE German city of Frankfurt boasts a unique melange of modern and Medieval culture. With over 5 million people living in the Greater Frankfurt metro-area, the city is one of the largest in Germany. And, with non-ethnic Germans forming over half of the local population, Frankfurt is also one of the most diverse places in the country.

Despite a history which stretches back hundreds of years, Frankfurt is very much defined by its modern appeal. From its earliest days, the city has owed much of its prosperity to the Main River which winds its way through the center of town. Today, the city is famed as a hub of transport, trade and finance, with over 1 million people commuting each day to its downtown areas.

Also arguably the “tallest” city in Germany, the vitality and fast-paced spirit of Frankfurt is best exemplified by the Bankenviertel — the epicenter of banking and finance in Germany, similar to Wall Street in the United States. This area, which is flanked by the Main, contains what is said to be the largest concentration of skyscrapers in the country. It is also home to the European Central Bank. Here, the Deutsche Bank and Messeturm buildings are popular with tourists for their impressive architecture. It’s little wonder that locals often refer to this area of town as “Mainhattan.”

Majestic past

Culture buffs and architecture aficionados will also get a kick out of Frankfurt’s churches, official buildings and museums, many of which played important roles in European history.

Paulskirche (St Paul’s Church), for instance, has long been a place for important ceremonial events. Founded in 1789, it hosted a remarkable national assembly in 1848 which many say established the fundamental principles of modern democracy. Since 1948, the church has no longer been used for religious functions. It is still, however, an important venue for ceremonies, such as the annual awarding of Peace Prize of the German Book Trade.

The Romerberg Building is often said to be the quaintest city government building in Germany. Having served for more than 600 years, its unique, stylish “Drei-Hauser-Front” design is a frequent picture on postcards. The inside Kaisersaal hall is well worth a visit.

Frankfurt is also the hometown of famed German writer Goethe. His birthplace, on Großer Hirschgraben Street, is a now museum dedicated to the extraordinary life and works of its illustrious former resident.

South of the Main lies the city’s amazing collection of museums. The Municipal Gallery within the Stadel Institute of Art is a preeminent institution in which masterpieces from nine different centuries are on display. Others stand-outs include the Museum of Applied Art and the Schirn Kunsthalle, which are filled with cultural wonders from Germany and the rest of Europe.

Established in 1858, the zoo in Frankfurt is one of the oldest in Europe. Signs and placards outside of each hall and viewing area tell not only of the animals they contain but also the history of the buildings and facilities themselves.

Home to hundreds of different animal species, entrance to the zoo costs only 10 euros (US$11.15). This fee allows visitors to access all areas of the zoo.

Frankfurt’s botanical garden is often praised as one of the best in Europe. Not only is the garden a place to view numerous rare and exotic plant species, it is also a fine example of European gardening aesthetics. The garden’s trees and grasses are also beautifully arranged, with lovely plant displays both inside and out.

The garden has two stunning star-shape green houses to accommodate vibrant plants native to tropical jungles, deserts and other far-flung regions. Some birds are also raised inside certain rooms to make things appear more harmonious. As we often say in Chinese, birds’ chirps and floral fragrance are an inseparable pair.

Joys of shopping and dining

Like many other big cities in the world, Frankfurt is a very convenient and friendly place for Chinese shoppers, as most big shopping malls and stores now offer Chinese-language services.

Tax refunds can normally be obtained at major shopping centers, as well as the airport. Foreign tourists can get rebates of as much as 19 percent on certain products.

Zeil Street is the city’s major shopping thoroughfare. Chinese tourists flock to Galeria Kaufhof, the largest shopping center in Frankfurt. Many Chinese go there to purchase German-made kitchenware and suitcases, although the mall’s large chocolate stores are also big draws for tourist shoppers.

For those in the market for upscale and brand-name products, the malls and shops along Zeil Street offer a wide selection of internationally-recognized brands.

German sausage and beer are both staples of the local cuisine. Locals in Frankfurt can often be seen drinking at outdoor cafes and restaurants. One can easily get vacuum-sealed sausages at most grocery stores. These delicious links make excellent gifts for family and friends back home.

Many other local foods are heavily influenced by Italian and French cuisine. Also, given the city’s sizable Islamic population, Arab and Middle Eastern restaurants are quite common.

If you go

Don’t rely on getting by with English in Frankfurt. It’s best to plan your routes and schedule in advance, or to use GPS on your mobile phone.

The city offers 9.9-euro (US$11) one-day and 14.5-euro two-day public transport cards for travelers. These cards allow unlimited use of Frankfurt’s buses, trams and subways. They are sold at the airport, the central train station and Romerberg Square. They also allow tourists to get discounts on entry fees at various attractions around the city.

Off the beaten path

Only a few bus stops away from Frankfurt’s international airport lies the small town of Neu-Isenburg. For those who wish to escape the bustle of urban life, Neu-Isenburg is a recommended place to see.

Wandering through the small, picturesque town on a sunny day is a lovely experience. Unlike many Chinese towns and villages, where the same style of architecture predominates, the houses in Nue-Isenberg are designed and decorated based on the owner’s tastes and preferences.

I rented a room in a private estate in Neu-Isenburg in order to both save money and better understand the everyday lives of ordinary Germans. In the morning, one is invariably woken by birds chirping and the sound of passing car engines. Human noise was much rarer.

Living in a local house meant it was possible for me to try some German cooking and join in the outdoor barbeque hosted by the jovial landlord. Sausage and beer were ever present, as was my own local favorite: yogurt. German yogurt is thicker than what we have in China, and at times tastes like ice cream.

Despite being in the outskirts of Frankfurt, Neu-Isenburg nevertheless has all the amenities of any large city. Frankfurther Street, which runs through the downtown area, is lined with shops, restaurants and banks. On this street, one can find cuisines from all over Europe. Local people are also well represented at its bars and pubs. North of the town is a forest suitable for hiking and cycling adventures. The tram station is right on the edge of the woods, offering people from Frankfurt and surrounding parts the chance to relax in nature.

Locals tell me the town isn’t always a haven of tranquility. Every summer, for three days, more than 15,000 people take part in the “Open-Doors-Festival” to perform and enjoy music of all genres.

How to get there: Bus 651 at Terminal 1 of Frankfurt’s international airport offers direct access to Neu-Isenburg, 1.75 euros for a one-way ticket.

LOCAL festivals and seasonal events

• Free museum carnival

Over 10 world-class museums line the southern bank of the Main River. Starting the last Friday of each August, these museums open free-of-charge until the following Sunday.

During this period, over 3 million people typically descend on these museums. There are also booths and vendors selling food and handicrafts to visitors. Boat racing is another part of the festival that ought not be missed. Over the weekend, boat racers compete against each other to see who is the fastest across the water.

The fun concludes with a grand fireworks display on the final evening.

• Apple wine festival

Frankfurt is famed for its apple wine, a drink which locals have been enjoying for more than 250 years.

In honor of this joyful drink, a special festival is held every August at Romerberg Square. The event usually draws various dignitaries and celebrities, many of whom engage in performances or otherwise play leading roles in the festivities.

The festival is not only about drinking wine though. It is a great venue to experience local rituals and culture, as well as a good place to hear the local dialect.

• Big book fair

Germans are avid readers. As early as the 16th century, Frankfurt had emerged as a major trade center for books written in Latin, with traders gathering from Italy and Netherlands.

To boost German culture after World War II, the local government launched an annual book fair in 1949. The fair is held every October at St Paul’s Church and is today one of the largest events of its kind in the world.

Every year, the fair plays host to thousands of special events, including seminars, panel discussions, readings and awards ceremonies.

• Christmas market

Frankfurt’s annual Christmas market runs from late November to late December each year at Romerberg Square.

With warm candle light and amazing fragrances, the market is known as one of Germany’s best.

The market provides a perfect opportunity to taste local specialties and treats from other parts of the country. As the Romerberg area is home to some of the city’s most well-known cathedrals and churches, dozens of bells ring simultaneously to create an even more enchanting atmosphere.




 

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