THE Cote d'Azur is glamorous, glitzy and pricey during the sun-seeking summer but you can still enjoy it all year round for the sparkling Mediterranean, relaxed lunches on sunlit terraces, pleasant climate and rich history.

Nice, the capital of the Cote d'Azur is beautifully curved around the Bay of Angels and is an anytime destination. Spring and autumn are generally perfect for outdoor activities, summer for sun bathing and in winter the weather may be mild enough for lunch on a terrace.

France's fifth city has become a favorite weekend retreat for Parisians and other heat-seeking Europeans but to discover different facets of the city, it takes at least four days.

A relaxing vacation in Nice starts from the Promenade des Anglais, with the sparkling Baie des Anges (Bay of Angels) on your right toward the south and the city arching round the bay on your left to the north. This expressive, main coastal road was built in the 19th century when the English took to spending the winter in Nice.

And no one has ever missed the landmark Le Negresco in the past 100 years. The Negresco's own story is as compelling as the world-famous English Promenade (the Promenade des Anglais) and the sweeping bay of Angels.

You can't say you've been to Nice if you haven't walked down the boardwalk in the broiling sun and haven't noticed men and women in elegant attire slithering out of Jaguars and into Le Negresco.

Landmark hotel

A landmark hotel with a century of history, it enfolds guests into 400 years of French culture across six floors. Treasures from Louis XIII's reign to modern days fill in niche. It's not simply a luxurious hotel but an intimate and impressive French art museum: Negresco owes its strong identity partly to a large art collection of more than 6,000 works. Guests can admire the generous forms of Nikie Saint Phalle's Nana Jaune in the Royal Lounge or the series of carpets designed by Raymond Moretti. The ballroom-sized main public space has a glass dome made in Gustave Eiffel's workshops and a French chandelier ordered by Czar Nicholas II for the Kremlin.

Owner Jeanne Augier is a legendary lady and art connoisseur who amassed a museum-worthy collection and has devoted her life to preserving and enhancing this unique heritage. A visionary, she constantly changed the hotel interior to meet the expectations of a demanding clientele in search of the exceptional and "incredibly French" stay. Each room is created with a concept and showcases Augier's exquisite taste that evokes the art of French living.

Strolling along the coastline from Le Negresco and heading to the Old Town (Vieux Nice) is a pleasant journey, enfolding sea, sun, sky and old town nestled in among it all. The city, with different facets and period architecture, is surprising in its personality and dynamism.

Climbing more than 200 steps to the top of the Colline du Chateau on the hill, visitors enjoy breathtaking panoramic views of the Mediterranean Sea, the Old Town, and the harbor area.

Even the Old Town is best captured from above and no tourist will leave Nice without seeing and experiencing this must-see area. The area is famous, not for historical sites but for its hive or activity, its lively food and flower market, numerous bistros and bars, buzzing both day and night. It's a pleasure to get lost, enjoy a local meal, soak up some sun and enjoy the Mediterranean vibe.

Bordered by the Promenade des Anglais, the Chateau on the hill and Boulevard Jean Jaures, the old town arose from a traditional medieval village. It has narrow, winding streets, quaint yellow, orange and ochre buildings with green shutters, reflecting the strong Italian architectural influence in this part of France.

Market on ramparts

Perhaps the greatest of Vieux Nice's treasures is the cours Saleya. The pedestrian area was built on the ramparts dismantled in the early 18th century. In this rectilinear baroque ochre setting, the flower and vegetable markets are held every day except Monday and provide a feast for the eyes and a delight for the taste buds.

Not far from the cours Saleya, Cathedrale Sainte-Reparate is an architectural delight inspired by early Baroque architectural models from Rome. It has a basilica layout and the interior reflects the influence of Saint Peter's in Rome.

Vieux Nice is lively and animated, with a strong Italian influence. There are a multitude of small, inexpensive pizzerias, restaurants and gelato shops. Don't forget to try socca before you leave the old town; it's a chickpea crepe that has been deep fried in batter.

Once you experience the landscape of azure seas and wonderful mix of architecture, you realize why so many artists have made their home here. Nice ranks second among French cities, after Paris, for the number of museums and galleries. It has 20 museums and municipal galleries in addition to a large number of private contemporary art galleries and artists' workshops.

Art and culture is abundant, not only inside museums and galleries. The main city square, Place Massena, is an open-air museum with 12 works that are particularly striking at night. Created by some of the most famous artists of our time, they have become art of the urban landscape.

From here, streets branch off in all directions, offering varied shopping and dining experiences. Unlike Vieux Nice, where the buildings are jammed together, the New Town has beautiful boulevards with fine townhouses in among a rainbow of shops, cafes, restaurants and bars.

What to eat

Restaurant Le Chantecler (inside Le Negresco)

The restaurant of the legendary Le Negresco was awarded its second star by the Michelin Guide in August 2012, saluting the work of chef Jean-Denis Rieubland and his team. The dining room has kept its Regency style decor and beautiful 18th-century wood paneling. Chef Rieubland defines its cuisine and style as "inspired by Provence, its products and traditions" and likes to pass on his love of authenticity. The menu pays homage to the produce with an appropriate Mediterranean touch and the service is attentive without being overly formal. The restaurant is only open for dinner during the week.



Petite Maison (11 rue Saint Francois de Paule)

Petite Maison is Nice's best-kept secret. It is considered the city's hottest table, drawing celebrities and politicians for its happening scene and perfect Nicois specialties. Customers include Elton John, Mick Jagger and Nicolas Sarkozy and you will probably run into some real celebrities when you dine there. Artichokes, grilled peppers, pumpkin flowers fritters, scrambled truffles and crayfish from Mediterranean are a few of the signature dishes.

Where to stay

Le Negresco (37, Promenade des Anglais, Nice)

Overlooking Nice's Promenade des Anglais, Hotel Le Negresco is one of the world's few remaining privately owned palaces. Some guests travel all the way to Nice simply to experience this legendary hotel. Inspired by French history and art, guest rooms are eclectically furnished and decorated in styles ranging from Art Deco to Louis XIII. The hotel brasserie La Rotonde is worth checking out with its striking decor of vibrant colors and an 18th-century carousel of wooden horses. The terrace opens onto the sea and the sun.



Hotel Massena

With its famous Belle Epoque facade, Hotel Massena is a distinctive boutique hotel with a modern atmosphere and contemporary design decor. The interior is a visual delight, the foyer and main staircase pay tribute to cinema and musical legends while the common areas have been entirely renovated and redecorated in a pop art theme. It is conveniently located on Place Massena surrounded by gardens and pedestrian streets, just three minutes' walk from the beaches.