SERBIA is the heart of the Balkan Peninsula. But in the late 1980s to early 1990s, it was rocked by a series of political upheavals and wars that eventually led to the breakup of the former Yugoslavian federation.

But after the turbulence and chaos, peace prevailed. As the guns fell silent and the region makes a slow recovery, tourists and visitors are flocking back in.

It is the “in” destination now for young people from all over the world who want to look for a sense of the oblivious beyond the pristine nature, as well as some nostalgic memories from the days gone by.

The territory of what is today the Republic of Serbia was under Roman (and later Byzantine) rule for about 600 years, from the 1st century BC. Many Roman noblemen and statesmen were born in this land, including 17 Roman Emperors.

The Danube River influenced the extension of the Roman Empire. Its confluences such as Sava and Morava led to the growth of frontier fortresses and towns, whose remains point to the extent of the Roman Empire and the Roman culture.

One of them, Felix Romuliana, was included in the UNESCO World Heritage Sites list in July 2007. Built by Emperor Galerius to mark the place of his birth, the site is a complex of palaces and temples, which served three main purposes — a luxurious villa for Emperor Galerius, a monument to his deeds as emperor, and a place of worship of his mother’s divine personality.

Several valuable Roman gold coins were unearthed from the site that helped to accurately detail the time of the complex. Pilasters of emperors Diocletian, Maximian, Galerius, Licinius, Maximinus and Constantine were some of the most spectacular finds from the resort, making it a popular tourist stop on the Roman Emperor’s trail.

Besides the Roman heritage, there is also the Vinca culture from the early layers of Serbia civilization. Dating back to the 6th millennium BC, the Vinca culture was also known as the “cradle of European culture.” It was first discovered in the present-day village of Vinca about a hundred years ago, just a few miles from the Serbian capital Belgrade. So far, over 150 Vinca settlements have been determined on the very bank of the Danube.

Considered the first urban settlement in Europe, the region maintained a high degree of cultural uniformity. There is an archaeological park called Belo Brdo, meaning “The White Hill,” where visitors can see different kinds of tools and weapons made of stone and bones, pottery, ritual vases, jewelry, numerous anthropomorphic and zoomorphic figurines, the remains of prehistoric houses and many other objects created in Vinca or brought from remote areas.

Vinca is also famous for the Vavedenje Monastery from the 15th century. Dedicated to Virgin Mary, the monastery was erected by Stevan Nemanja and his son St Sava. It was first built in 1525 and restored in 1874. It possesses rare old books, with the Belgrade Four Evangelists from 1552.

If you happen to be in Serbia in autumn, don’t miss the opportunity to visit the Smederevo Fortress, the last medieval capital of Serbia, where you can participate in the international poetry festival, and have a glass of the famous “Smederevka” white wine at one of the biggest and most significant wine manifestations in the country — the Smederevo Autumn.

Smederevo Autumn

The town of Smederevo is famous for its poets and poetry. For the past 47 years the Smederevo’s Poet Autumn Festival has gathered over 1,000 poets from all over the world. It usually takes place in October in the modern surroundings of the Cultural Center of Smederevo and medieval atmosphere of Smederevo Fortress.

In 2013, Chinese poet Zhao Lihong was featured for the first time at the Smederevo’s Poet Autumn. He was awarded the Golden Key of Smederevo for his poetry collection “A Boat to Heaven” translated into Serbian by famous Serbian poet Dragan Dragojlovic.

Besides the well-known poets who come to the festival, school children are a major participant in the festival’s outreach programs and poets are taken to schools to read out their works.

I remember how the entire community was mobilized to be a part of this grand season of poetry during my stay in Smederevo.

About 45 kilometers upstream of Smederevo is Belgrade, meaning “white city,” capital of Serbia. Due to its strategic location, the city was a battleground for scores of wars and power struggles between the Serbs until Ottoman Empire finally conquered the Serbs, and later between Ottoman and Austria.

The last strike took place in 1999 during the Kosovo War when NATO bombings caused substantial damage to Belgrade with even the very center of the city hit. The war ended with former Yugoslav forces agreeing to withdraw from Kosovo.

In 2008, Kosovo declared independence, becoming the latest state to emerge from former Yugoslavia after Slovenia, Bosnia, Croatia, Macedonia and Montenegro. The nation has since fallen apart.

Seventeen years have passed but Belgrade remains scarred and many parts of the city still seem like they have just been hit. Just hundred meters from the main train and bus stations, there are buildings with its windows blown out, concrete hanging from its floors, and metal poles like bones stripped of flesh. Surrounded by graffiti-riddled fences, they stand on either side of the road leading to the center of town, as if it were an introduction to the violent history of Belgrade’s evolution. The locals may not want to talk about it and, if mentioned, only make oblique references or simply stare at the floor. Yet, physically — and maybe psychologically — the slow recovery continues.

Though today’s Belgrade may be years behind other European capitals in terms of economic, industrial, and scientific development, it has a spirit of its own. It has not only some unique features, but also a joie de vivre that can be seen in its café culture, nightlife and often a Mediterranean flavor in its lifestyle.

People here know best how to enjoy life. The Knez Mihailova Street, or Prince Michael Street, is a common meeting point for Belgraders. As the main pedestrian and shopping zone of the city, the street is a constant buzz of people and tourists when the sun comes out.

Vendors are seen selling a variety of goods from roasted chestnuts to warm handmade knitwear; artists playing the violin or sketching a portrait of the passersby; and young couples chatting while drinking coffee in the open-air café, as well as kids bargaining for a big ice-cream or a golden pin of Tito.

There are thousands of people strolling along the beautiful street every day as it is also the shortest path to the Kalemegdan Park and Fortress. Lying on a hill overlooking the Sava and Danube rivers, this site used to be the core and the oldest section of the urban area of Belgrade.

After almost 2 millennia of continuous sieges, battles and conquests, the park is now home to several modern galleries and museums, restaurants, sports courts, besides some of the historical sites such as the Despot Stephan Tower, the Stambol Gate and the Gate of Charles VI.

There are also a few playgrounds, chess boards for the elderly, and a great wall which is a favorite spot for teenagers with spectacular and often romantic views of sunsets.

When night falls, darkness adds a lot to Belgrade’s charm, and the city is still full of life. It may be hard to believe, but every night of the week, there are countless different clubs of different styles.

The trauma of the recent history must have changed people’s minds to take their fun even more seriously. Here, everyone is ready to party all the time, for the blues of the Danube.

How to get there

Presently there are no direct flights from Shanghai to Belgrade. But cheap and convenient flights to Belgrade’s Nikola Tesla Airport are available on several airlines through transfers, including major EU carriers like Turkish Airlines and Czech Airlines.

Where to stay

Square Nine

Square Nine Hotel Belgrade is a contemporary construction which integrates with the neighborhood by matching colors and respecting height of the surrounding buildings. Only a 20-minute drive from Belgrade Nikola Tesla Airport, the hotel is centrally located in the heart of the old town overlooking the Students square.

To make a transfer booking, please send an e-mail to reservations@squarenine.rs in advance or call + 381 11 3333 500 upon arrival.

Drvengrad

Drvengrad, meaning “timber town,” is a traditional village which offers affordable and comfortable bed and breakfast lodging for individual and family travel. It is located in the Zlatibor District near the city of Uzice, 200 kilometers southwest of Belgrade. It is near Mokra Gora and Visegrad, best known for Ivo Andric’s Nobel-winning novel “The Bridge on the Drina.”

Tips

Though the most convenient way to move around Serbia is to take the public buses, renting a car with a personal driver could save you time if you are interested in not missing the many Orthodox monasteries there. The most beautiful ones and of great importance for European and world medieval architecture and art are mainly concentrated in the valleys of rivers Ibar and Rashka. The oldest ones were built in the 12th century.

Glob Metropoliten Tours (http://metropoliten.com) and

Top Tours (www.toptoursad.com) are two reliable and professional travel agencies based in Belgrade.