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March 29, 2017

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South Africa: a wild collision of oceans, taste and culture

CAPE Town, the southernmost city of Africa, is where wild nature and ancient landscape collide with the sophisticated lifestyle brought by modern civilization.

My trip in Cape started from the rock of the Cape of Good Hope formed 500 years ago, where I was almost blown over by the famous wild Cape Doctor wind that made me feel rather small, conveying reverence for nature, and ended sipping a glass of Chenin Blanc at a technical and art-driven winery designed in post modern style in Stellenbosch.

South African wine is as shining as its famous diamonds.

The Cape of Good Hope, a rocky headland on the Atlantic coast, is an ideal first stop to explore the country.

Portuguese navigator Bartolomeu Dias led the first European expedition to round the cape, in 1488, opening up a sea route from Europe to Asia.

Local people work hard to ensure minimal human impact on the rocky landscape — there isn’t even a toilet for tourists. So, don’t drink too much water before visiting!

Because of this policy of a small footprint, visitors can see many rare indigenous plants and animals.

Cape Town’s official website says there are about 1,100 species of plants, many of which are locally distinctive, especially in the fynbos — or shrubland — with large, striking flowers.

On the climb up to the lighthouse on the peak above Cape Point, signboards warn of the sudden appearance of animals.

But only a few lucky travelers are likely to see a zebra, eland (antelope) or rhebok. You are more likely to see tortoise, lizards, snakes and deer.

Africans have a deep connection with nature. Animal sculptures stand in front of houses like guards. Most of the souvenirs are decorated with patterns of elephants, hipopotamuses, lions or leopards.

Standing on the lighthouse terrace affords a gloriously distinctive ocean view. The Cape is where the cold Atlantic collides with the warm Indian Ocean and you can see the navy blue-turquoise divide in the waters.

Locals say the divide changes daily according to rides and currents. If you are lucky enough, you might also see a southern right whale or humpback whale.

The Cape Doctor makes photos difficult — the wild wind messing up the hair. It’s so strong that mobile phones can easily be whipped out of your hand into the sea.

For a pleasant ending, take the 9-kilometer Chapman’s Peak Drive between Hout Bay and Noordhoek.

This is renowned as one of the world’s most scenic highways and was the shoot for the 1990s BMW “Beat the Bends” commercial.

The view is stunning at every curve — all 114 of them. Mountains rise up on one side and the sea crashes far below on the other, sometimes almost 600 meters down.

Stellenbosch, a wine gem

Leaving the seaside, we drove more than 50 kilometers to Stellenbosch, the world-famous wine region.

It is also a university town and offers possibly the most sophisticated lifestyle in Africa.

The scenery starts changing, from the blue mirror of the ocean to rising mountains, expanses of land and orderly rows of vines.

The vineyards here in Stellenbosch are more expansive and layered than in Europe. Many lay lie at the foot of the mountains or in the valleys.

I visited Stellenbosch in late February, the harvest season of grapes in the southern hemisphere. Dusk in winery is breathtakingly colorful.

In the sunset the sky glows purple, the mountain in the distance turns light brown and the soil turns light yellow. Rows of vines are covered with green leafs, glowing with bunches of deep red grapes.

Although wine critics categorize South Africa in the New World, Stellenbosch’s wine-making history can be traced back to 1655, when then Dutch governor Jan van Riebeeck planted the first vines imported from Europe.

His son, Simon Van der Stel — Stellenbosch means “Stel’s forest” in Dutch — played a key role in building the reputation of local wine, establishing the famous winery Constantia, which produces an iconic sweet wine mainly from muscadel and chenin blanc, which was favored by many European kings during the 18th and 19th centuries.

These included Russian tsar Frederick the Great, and Napoleon, who drank a bottle a day during his exile on St Helena.

Today, Constantia sweet wine, balancing sweetness and acidity, is still probably the most expensive wine in South Africa and popular in the UK and Europe.

Pinotage, made from a locally distinctive grape variety, usually with ripe cranberry flavors, and chenin blanc, with a round mouth feel, floral notes and a zesty flavor, are also stand-outs for South Africa.

Stellenbosch is one of a few places in the world where bush vine, a kind of old free standing vine relying on hand harvest, is available.

Two or three days of eating, drinking and staying in a winery is a must-do in South Africa. Some art-driven wineries feature avant-garde interior design and offer top quality hospitality.

South Africa’s wine industry prides itself on not going after the commercial mass market, leaving it free to make distinctive wines that reflect the terroir.

And without the conservative traditions of the Old World, the industry is free to be bold and innovative. And cheap — about half the price of fancy wines from overseas.

Wine tourism here is not as mature as the US, France or Australia. There are few agency-organized wine tours.

So when I decided to go to Klein Constantia, I phoned the winery directly.

“Just come!” said the gentleman who answered and who later showed me around the winery and entertained me with some wine samples without charging any fee.

Here are some wineries near Stellenbosch worth visiting:

 

• When wine meets jewelry

Delaire Graff Estate on the crest of the panoramic Helshoogte Mountain Pass is owned by Graff, the famous jewelry company.

The architecture is Cape Dutch style with an African touch. The entrance displays the company’s 18.08 carat Delaire Sunrise, the world’s largest square emerald cut Fancy Vivid Yellow diamond.

The highlight inside is a large glassed-in aging and fermentation room and the personal art collection of Laurence Graff, founder of Graff’s, highlighted by Vladimir Tretchikoff’s iconic Chinese Girl.

The terrace dining area, overlooking the vineyard, has probably the longest waiting list in the Cape area.

Don’t miss their rose, with beautiful acidity, notes of red berry and a floral hint — perfect in the sunshine.

Their chenin blanc features layered expressions of citrus and tropical fruit, flavors of honey and almonds in the background and subtle minerality. Their foods feature European techniques with African ingredients such as spring bok and line fish. Book a night at one of their 10 lodges — at least two months in advance.

 

Reservations: info@delaire.co.za

Address: Delaire Graff Estate, P.O. Box 3058, Stellenbosch, 7602, South Africa

 

• All about horse

Cavalli is in the Helderberg region, known as the golden triangle of South African wine.

The winery’s name, meaning “horse” in Italian, clearly shows owner’s passion. There’s a 110-hectare saddlebred horse stud and training center in winery.

Many of their wines are named after the horse varieties: their signature white, a blend of chenin blanc, chardonnay and verdelho is named Cremello.

Visitors can take a horse carriage tour of the winery, vineyard and garden. Cavalli has an art gallery, with a large collection of horse-themed works by local artists.

Their viognier and sauvignon blanc deserve a try, featuring a good balance of oak and fresh fruits. Dining at their restaurant, the first Green Star-rated dining in South Africa is recommended. It operates sustainably, with solar heating, recycled waters and permaculture for their own herbs and vegetables

 

Reservations: info@cavalliestate.com

Address: Strand Rd, PO Box 102, Somerset West 7129, Western Cape, South Africa

 

• Small and beautiful

If you are a boutique wine lover, Veenwouden definitely deserves a visit.

In a beautiful valley in Paarl with the vineyards lying on a gentle slope facing the Berg River, the winery is known for its red wines, especially concentrated merlot and pinotage thanks to valley’s warm climate and its cool Atlantic breeze.

Small means quality here, with yield limited to a maximum of 5 tons a hectare and winemakers using very small crusher to sort the best grapes. Their merlot with very low production was served by South African President Jacob Zuma to Chinese President Xi Jinping during last year’s Forum on China-Africa Cooperation.

 

Reservations: admin@veenwouden.com

Address: P.O. Box 7086, Northern Paarl 7623, Western Cape, South Africa

How to get there:

 

• Emirates and Singapore Airlines have flights from Shanghai to Cape Town, 20-22 hours in total. If you are a food lover and require caring service, go for Singapore Airlines. If you prefer duty-free shopping, choose Emirates, which transfers in Dubai.

• Upon arrival at Cape Town airport, you will see buses from the main terminal on Grand Parade, although they do not always arrive or depart on time. If you have the money, opt for a cab. Taxi in South Africa refers to both metered cabs and packed-to-the-rafters minibuses (much cheaper).

• If you have enough time, you can go to the Victoria & Alfred Waterfront Information Center for Myciti Bus, stopping at most scenic attractions.

 

Tips:

 

• Although local people speak Afrikaans, English is commonly used.

• If you go to Cape Town for wine, it’s not necessary to choose expensive hotels downtown. There are many fancy but affordable resorts and boutique hotels in Stellenbosch, some of which are in farms and the valleys. Staying in a winery is a must-try.

• Generally, local public transport is very affordable but not that efficient. For travelers with tight schedule, renting a car is essential. Europcar has a counter in the airport and at some five-star hotels. If you rent a car, the Garden Route deserves a drive, which is a scenic stretch of the southeastern coast, starting from Mossel Bay in the Western Cape and ending with Storms River in the Eastern Cape.

• Don’t forget to buy local tea rooibos as a souvenir, which is a caffeine-free herbal infusion made from local red bush.




 

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