Vietnam retains French colonial charm, Eastern culture and ancient ruins, and features spectacular coastal and highland scenery. And, of course, there's the food. Go now before it gets spoiled by tourism and too expensive. Wang Xian reports.

In 1929, a 15-year-old girl, daughter of a bankrupt widow, attracts the attention of a wealthy 37-year-old Chinese man on a ferry boat in the Mekong Delta as she is returning to boarding school in Saigon.

We know what happens in Maguerite Duras' semi-autobiographical novel "The Lover" (1984) set in French colonial Vietnam. She accepts a ride in his limousine and becomes his lover. He eventually leaves her at his father's insistence. It also was made into a film in 1992.

For many Chinese readers, this romantic view of the country in the novel was the first impression of Vietnam and the region, bolstered by the 1992 film "Indochine."

It remains a country of Eastern culture, French influences, spectacular scenery and very popular food. Although modernization has come to Vietnam, much charm remains.

The long, narrow country on the South China Sea is almost the size of Germany; the coastline is more than 3,000 kilometers long and it takes more than 30 hours to travel the length of the country by bus or train, from Hanoi in the north to Ho Chi Minh City (Saigon) in the south.

Famous scenic spots include Halong Bay, a UNESCO World Heritage Site famous for thousands of limestone karst formations, mountains and islands.

There are ancient cities such as Hoi An and Hue, the tranquil flower town Da La in the cool mountains and compelling sea views in Da Nang, Nha Trang, Mui Ne or any other coastal city.

Motorcycles are everywhere, they're the major means of personal transport and the traffic can frighten new arrivals. Streets are jammed and pedestrians and vendors are everywhere. Many women wear traditional aodai, which is similar to Chinese qipao.

Fortunately, the narrow geography makes travel easy, because one can simply head north or south and get off anywhere.

A low-cost backpacking and bus adventure can cost less than 4,500 yuan (US$700), not a bad price for wandering around a beautiful country.

Eat and drink

At virtually every street corner there are awnings and rows of stools set up by vendors selling iced coffee, sugarcane juice, fruit shake, lemonade and other beverages.

Many Vietnamese sit on these low stools and while away the afternoon, sipping away as the ice melts and chatting with friends.

Life moves at its own unhurried pace.

"We enjoy a leisurely life at a slow pace. Probably no other people would spend a whole afternoon drinking at the street as Vietnamese do," a girl selling soy milk told us.

Traveling all the way down the country we drank different beverages and ate bowls of pho (noodle soup) and baguettes, but we also explored Vietnamese cooking.

Vietnam cuisine is known for being healthy and using very little fat and grease. Beef is sliced and chicken is shredded; lots of vegetables are used.

"A medium size fish is enough for a satisfying lunch and we are full and energetic for a whole afternoon," a restaurant owner told us.

That's probably why most Vietnamese are in good shape. The food is very healthy and they don't over eat and load up on many dishes.

Imperial city

Hue, in the middle of the coast, rose as the capital of a dynasty that dominated southern Vietnam from the 17th to 19th century.

It is said that the Citadel in the old imperial city of Hue is the mini-counterpart of the Palace Museum in Beijing, but there's no comparison.

It's dilapidated, overgrown and rubble is piled here and there.

Still, it's appealing. Most paths and architectures haven't been renovated and the original architecture can be appreciated. Beautiful mosaic patterns of flowers remain on the floor of a chamber where the roof is gone.

Fading murals and frescoes can be seen. The whole place has a tranquil air and the palaces tell their stories, especially at sunset.

Heading south, Both My Son Valley near Hoi An (four hours drive from Hue) and Po Nagar Temple in Nha Trang (12 hours drive from Hoi An) are relics of the kingdom of Champa, containing abandoned crumbling Hindu temples, some date from the early 11th century. It was conquered by Vietnam in 1371.

My Son Valley is a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

It's a smaller alternative, if one isn't visiting Angkor Wat in Cambodia.

Sometimes called "little Lijiang," referring to Lijiang in China's Yunnan Province, the ancient town of Hoi An is filled with history as well as Western cafes, bars, shops and restaurants. Lanterns glow along the river. Encountering a very beautiful girl in aodai is expected.

Western imprint

Many churches reflect Catholic influence in the country and we seemed to encounter a church almost every day. St Joseph Cathedral in Hanoi and Notre Dame Cathedral in Ho Chi Minh City are magnificent, while smaller churches, such as those in Da Lat are charming. Da Lat is a popular tourist destination in the southern part of the central highlands.

A couple was taking wedding photos one morning in front of a large church where a rainbow had appeared after a rain shower.

Da Lat, sometimes called "little Paris," is rich in colonial influence and architecture. There's even a small replica of the Eiffel Tower in the downtown area. Since it's located on a plateau in the central highlands, the temperature is very comfortable.

French colonialists flocked there and built a summer resort town with colorful French-style villas and delightful views.

Da Lat Railway Station is an architectural landmark, and small trains still operate. Crazy House, a house from fairy tales, is a popular stop.

Mild weather is ideal for the flower industry and for wine production. Visitors encounter fields and hillsides of flowers and the scenery is popular with photographers.

Sea views

Those who love the ocean and beaches are not disappointed. Da Nang's sandy white beach is said by locals to be the best in the country. The ancient town of Hoi An is also near the sea, with a lovely beach. Nha Trang is loaded with water entertainment. Mui Ne is a place for reflection and fortunately few crowds.

To watch the breathtaking sunrise, one must get up as early as 4am.

In Nha Trang we got to the seashore at 5:30am but the sun was already up. Still, the scene was splendid.

The fishing village of Mui Ne has become a resort destination, for its quaint village and half-moon-shaped bay. There are quite a few hotels, some luxurious, some family-type. But it's still possible to find some tranquillity on the beach or to sit on a balcony, listen to the waves crash, enjoy the sea breeze and reflect. And have a glass of wine or cup of tea.

If you go

How to get there

Air, train and bus routes link China and Vietnam. There are daily flights from Shanghai to Hanoi and Ho Chi Minh City (Saigon). Early booking and round-trip booking can offer bargains.

Crossing the border by train or by bus is very interesting. Travelers go first to Nanning, capital of the Guangxi Zhuang Autonomous Region of China, then switch to an international train or bus to Hanoi. Several buses of the Yunde Group leave every day. Train T8701 leaves for Hanoi at 6:20pm nightly from Nanning Station.

Where to stay

For backpackers, clean, comfortable and WiFi-accessible youth hostels, guest houses, small hotels and inns are available in every city. A standard room with two beds costs US$10-15. A bed in a four-bed room costs around US$6. Rooms with sea views cost more. There are plenty of star hotels, including world-class, luxury hotels, especially in resort areas.

Where to shop

Most cities have big markets and night markets for necessities and local products, but remember to bargain or buy items with price tags. Hoi An ancient town and Pham Ngu Lao Street in Saigon offer plenty of interesting shops and places where foreigners congregate. There are bars, cafes, restaurants, guest houses, art galleries, tailor shops and other places for bargains and treasure. One can get a tailor-made aodai (similar to qipao) in Hoi An.

What to eat

Noodle soup

The main dish is pho, noodle soup sold on almost every street corner.



Spring rolls

These differ from Chinese spring rolls. Made of sticky rice, the transparent wrappings contain bean sprouts, shallots, shrimp and pork. They are then wrapped in lettuce and dipped in fish sauce, vinegar and pepper. It's crispy but not greasy.

Seafood

Seafood of all kinds is abundant along the coast and barbecue is popular. Prices of the same seafood, such as lobster, vary among restaurants, so it's best to compare prices before ordering.



Baguette

A typical breakfast is a baguette sandwich made with Vietnamese mayonnaise and usually stuffed with eggs or shredded meat, and garnished with cucumber slices and pickles. Prices range from 40 US cents to US$1.



Fruit juice

Fresh sugarcane juice and mixed fruit shakes are sold on the sidewalk and they're worth trying. They're all-natural. Vendors produce the juice or shake as you watch. Iced lemonade is not to be missed.



Coffee

Coffee is a major export and coffee is part of everyday life. Drip coffee with iced, sweet condensed milk is popular. Even the instant coffee is good.