WITH its famous markets, impressive malls, delicious food at seemingly every street corner and a rich history, Bangkok has plenty to entice back even the most seasoned traveler again and again. Patsy Yang checks out some of the Thai capital's top spots, both old and new.

Famed for its heady combination of energy and aesthetics, Bangkok is one of those cities that continually reveals something new to visitors, no matter how often they've been there.

Thailand's capital can seem daunting at first with its infamous gridlock, though the government is trying hard to make the city work better. The Skytrain BTS is reaching out to further destinations and new highways are being built, as the city seeks to become a financial center, like Singapore and Hong Kong.

However, there is still nothing quite like Bangkok. It is one of the few cities in the world unlikely to bore repeat visitors - especially foodies and shopaholics.

Its many layers filled with hidden secrets and new trends and establishments to reveal to visitors.

Malls and markets remain one of the strong local features. The retail-intensive stretch along Siam main shopping area and the famous Chatuchak market leave visitors spoilt for choice, whether seeking clothes, handbags and homeware.

Serious foodies return to Thailand's capital because it is one of the most stimulating food cities in the world. Walking down the local streets, the air is infused with fragrant lemongrass and rice. Some tourists end up joining local cooking classes and bring home all those amazing spices and ingredients.

Bangkok has so much to enjoy that it's impossible to fit everything in one visit. It is useful to get help to navigate your way through the city, though some excursions may fall into the category of tourist cliches, such as taking a cruise along the Chao Phraya River and visiting the Grand Palace.

Here are our picks to some of Bangkok's old favorites and new attractions.


If you go

Eat

Bangkok seduces you in many ways, most powerfully through your sense of taste. Eating here is like taking a culinary tour of the whole country and increasingly, the world. With so many street stalls, local eateries, and chic restaurants, you can pretty much eat anything and anywhere.

Soul Food Mahanakorn (56 Soi Thonglor): The two-story shophouse turned bar-restaurant is run by former Atlantic food writer Jarrett Wrisley who started off with a pretty simple idea: to serve authentic regional Thai food in a comfortable setting. It sources many of the ingredients from small farms in the northeast of Thailand. The rice is organic and fair trade, meat free-range and the menu seasonal with daily specials. Soul Food Mahanakorn is located in Thong Lor, one of the city's most cosmopolitan neighborhoods.

Khao Jao (17 Soi Thonglor): Khao Jao is an authentic, delicious Thai eatery with an honest family-style service. Ask for the house specials which tend to be southern - hence fiery. If ultra-spicy is your thing, head to Khao Jao.

Mae Waree (Soi Thonglor): A few steps into Soi Thonglor and you'll come across a fruit shop with a massive mango display out on the sidewalk. But don't just buy the mangoes. Try their delectable mango and sticky rice priced at Thai BHT100 (US$3.3).

Shop

The capital of Bangkok is also the shopping capital of the country. Here are some top spots.

Asiatique The Riverfront (2194 Charoenkrung 72-74 Road): The latest shopping and entertainment complex on the banks of Bangkok's Chao Phraya River has been a big hit among locals and tourists since its opening in April. Located on the site of a former pier owned by the East Asiatic Company, some of the original architecture has been retained. With a design inspired by Bangkok's old days as a riverside trading post, the massive complex resembles a traditional pier with rows of warehouses. Open from 5pm to midnight, Asiatique weaves together all the essential elements that define what Bangkok is. It has four districts combining shopping, dining, sightseeing, events and performances under one roof. While it features some of the same shops found at other malls, the overall experience is unique. A free shuttle boat service runs from the central pier close to Saphan Taksin BTS stop.

Talad Rot Fai (Khamphaengphet Road, behind Chatuchak weekend market): If Chatuchak no longer inspires, a surprising alternative is Talad Rot Fai, or Weekend Train Market. This open-air bazaar set beside an abandoned railroad track is open on weekends from mid afternoon to midnight and sits on land owned by the State Railway of Thailand. On sale are all kinds of memorabilia and antiques from bygone days. It has grabbed the attention of the city's retro freaks and antique hunters. Even you are not keen on antiques and old-school fashions, it's worth a visit. Grab a beer at Rod's bar/restaurant at the entrance and just sample the charm and chilled-out vibe.

Terminal 21 (BTS Asok station): Terminal 21's curvilinear glass-and-steel facade resembles a 21st-century airport, and the theme continues once you step inside. Opened last year, it is a one-floor one-concept shopping mall, where several world-famous cities are placed under one roof. The floor signs signal arrivals from cities such as Rome, Paris and San Francisco. With its own distinctive edge, Terminal 21 appeals to the younger generation.

Stay

The St. Regis Bangkok (159 Rajadamri Road): Located on the exclusive and prestigious Rajadamri Road, in the heart of the city's key commercial corridor, the hotel is becoming a prime address for international travelers and influential local residents. The second level of the hotel is connected to a BTS skytrain station, saving residents a lot of time and hassle.

The hotel also offers great Sunday Brunch at VIU on the 12th floor with a distinct Thai twist - starting with the signature Siam Mary cocktail, an original Thai version of the St Regis New York's classic Bloody Mary, with just Thai BHT2,650 (US$86.31) per person. Every first Sunday of the month, the St Regis offers a free-flow Dom Pérignon brunch at BHT7,900. It is one of the most popular hotel brunches in town so a reservation is highly recommended.

Last month, the St Regis Bangkok again teamed up with the Thai Polo and Equestrian Club for the Queen's Cup St Regis Pink Polo 2012 - a high-octane ladies polo match.



The Siam (3/2 Thanon Khao, Vachirapayabal, Dusit): This boutique gem is set in three acres of premium river frontage. The privately owned and operated retreat features 39 spacious suites and pool villas, as well as a historic Thai house. The overall setting reflects a period of Bangkok's greatest grandeur, under King Rama V, with Art Deco accents. Each suite is individually designed with a theme drawing on Thai life through the ages, plus Oriental artwork and antiquities. The hotel provides a sanctuary away from the city's hustle and bustle.

See + Do

Jim Thompson House and Museum (6 Soi Kasemsan 2, Rama 1 Road): Telling the story of James HW Thompson, the founder of the world renowned Jim Thompson Thai Silk Company, this traditional Thai complex at the end of a quiet soi has a nostalgic appeal and continues to be a key stop for visitors to Bangkok. Completed in 1959, the house consists of a complex of six traditional Thai teak houses brought from various parts of the country. Set in a lush garden is a restaurant and wine bar and a boutique for stocking up on signature silk products.

Spa treatment: A rejuvenating spa treatment or a famous traditional Thai massage offers a perfect antidote after a long day of shopping and sightseeing. Some of the new spa venues include Urban Retreat (right at Phrom Phong Station opposite Emporium Dept Store), Let's Relex (inside Terminal 21), and Lavana Bangkok (No.4 Soi Sukhumvit 12). A 60-minute Thai massage costs about 350 to 450BHT in a clean, decent environment.

Transport

Bangkok traffic jams can be horrendous and the skytrain makes it easier to get around. If you take to the roads, taxis are plentiful and can be hailed on the street. However, be sure to take a map and your hotel card with the address in Thai as taxi drivers rarely speak English.


Local Talk

Krister Svensson took the helm of The St. Regis Bangkok a year ago, yet his links with the city started much earlier. He lived here from the age of nine to 18 when Bangkok was a completely different world. The Swedish general manager shared his experiences and favorite places in the city.

Q: Which area is most hip now?

A: For the luxury hip it is definitely this stretch of Rajadamri Road; for the younger generation, Soi Thonglor has turned out to be a popular hang-out area with design-savvy, hip restaurants, bars and cafes.

Q: Where do you usually shop in Bangkok?

A: I usually go to Siam Paragon and Central World but I also love to experience the local side of things. My passion is cooking, so I love to go to the local market early in the morning and pick fresh ingredients.

Q: Where do you go for authentic Thai food?

A: Those simple, straightforward hole-in-the-wall eateries that offer exceptionally spicy Thai food, though they might not be as hygienic as a tourist wants to see.

Q: Where is your favorite bar or lounge in town?

A: I do like to spend a lot of time and entertain people in our St. Regis bar. It never gets overly crowded; the seats are very spread out; the views are fantastic and of course our services. Also, Soi 11 in Sukhumvit is one street which features fantastic bars that you can get good quick drinks.

Q: How do you unwind in the weekends?

A: I do like entertain at home, go to movies, shop, have foot massage and, believe it or not, go to Chatuchak weekend market. They have probably one of the best bars in Bangkok at Gate 18. It's great for people watching and I do enjoy it.

Q: Which place should a tourist definitely check in the city?

A: If you have never been here before, you should go do the long tail boat cruise on the river and end up at the Royal Palace and stroll around that area. I've lived here for a long time but I still enjoy go on a river tour sometimes.

Q: Which tourist sites are best avoided?

A: I wouldn't say there's anything you should avoid. Even the night scene here has become part of Bangkok. In general, it's a very safe place.