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July 3, 2013

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upscale, unique and relaxing Helsinki

By Elisa Mala | July 3, 2013, Wednesday | Print Edition

HELSINKI is known as an international capital of design and Finland is one of the Eurozone's wealthiest nations. But despite that upscale reputation, the city offers a wealth of experiences that are light on the wallet. In summer, glorious sun-filled days draw picnickers to every available patch of grass. The city also has a timeless maritime character, with its location on the Baltic Sea offering myriad views of the bay filled with boats and dozens of tiny islands. There's a cosmopolitan side to Helsinki, too, with its striking architecture and street art as far as the eye can see.

Join trendy urbanites at vibrant park

You know summer has arrived in Helsinki when trendy young urbanites blanket every corner of Esplanadi Park and set up picnics. Known locally as Espa, the charmingly small park lives up to its short name. Sandwiched between parallel streets that are lined with cafes and shops - think of home-grown design brands like Marimekko and iittala - it's also the hot spot for a number of free outdoor concerts and one of the most vibrant parts of town.

For a different kind of adrenaline rush, head over to the hillside amusement park of Linnanmaki, where the observation deck of a 53-meter tower offers a panoramic view of the city. Admission to the park, tower and even some (though not all) of the rides is free.

For complete serenity, try the manicured botanical gardens at Kaisaniemi Park, where hundreds of exotic plants populate the greenhouses that are maintained by the University of Helsinki.

Visit opera house, beach at Toolonlahti Bay

The parks that envelop Toolonlahti Bay showcase the exotic plants of the Winter Garden, the quiet splendor of the Finnish National Opera House and the vastness of the Olympic Stadium, built when the country hosted the Summer Games in 1952. At the end of boulevards leading from the park next to the bay, locals bring their competitive spirit to the beach volleyball tournaments at the man-made and ever-popular Hietaniemi Beach.

Shopping from trendy to bohemian

Nestled in the heart of the city, and steps away from iconic spots like Helsinki Cathedral and Senate Square, the fashion-forward Kluuvi shopping center showcases trendy items that aren't available anywhere else in the country. During summer months, the open-air flea market at Hietalahti offers a more bohemian feel and a glimpse of the everyday objects that are desired by many Finns.

But if there's only time for a single excursion, the place to go is the century-old Hakaniemi Market Hall, where 70 shops offer an endless array of knickknacks, such as local delicacies (reindeer meat and blinis), alpaca jackets and other regional specialties from Lapland in far northern areas, and many types of toys and other crafts that have been hand-crafted from local fir trees.

Feel like royalty at island fortress

Though the grounds are as lavish as any royal residence, there are no castles on Suomenlinna Fortress, a star-shaped bastion built in the 1700s atop a cluster of six islands. Today, the only invaders of this UNESCO World Heritage site are visitors who explore the church, theater, craft galleries, and half a dozen on-site museums. One museum is in a submarine! There's no entry fee for the island, though if you lack a boat of your own, there's a small cost for the ferry ride over. The particularly adventurous can even stay the night at the fortress' own hostel - not free, but potentially priceless.

Relax in a nation full of saunas

And finally, no visit to the country is complete without basking in a sauna, where an extra burst of heat is felt every time a shot of water is ladled onto piping hot stones. Saunas are source of national pride and most private homes have them. Many hotels and hostels have them too, so in all likelihood, you'll have access to one as part of your overnight lodging. There's also a new public facility called Kulttuurisauna that was built as a result of Helsinki hosting the 2012 World Design Festival, but admission is 15 euros or about US$20.

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