A cafe with a difference gives ‘hole in the wall’ new meaning
Print Edition
A new cafe in Xuhui District has quickly become popular due to its innovative approach to serving coffee — but it has also drawn controversy.
At 68 Yongkang Road, customers scan a QR code hanging on the wall to order coffee. A take-away cup is then delivered by a furry brown bear claw from a hole in the inconspicuous gray wall.
The paw shakes hands with customers, touches their heads and even presents red roses.
On a recent afternoon, large crowds gathered outside the cafe, including both customers and onlookers, blocking parts of narrow Yongkang Road with urban management officials keeping an eye on the situation.
A cafe employee continuously reminded customers, onlookers and those taking photos to keep a distance for fear of triggering the attention of officials.
“Please empty space at the serving area, because urban management officials are watching,” a worker told a man taking photos, pointing in the direction of an urban management official standing opposite the cafe.
An interview with one of the cafe’s founders was disrupted by a business operator from near the cafe, who complained that people in line blocked the entrance of his shop and sat in its chairs.
“You should work out a solution because your cafe affects the business of other shops on the road,” he said.
The cafe has also drawn concerns over its hygiene and licensing.
Shanghai’s food safety regulations require businesses that serve food to show their business operation license and food safety information in a visible area.
The cafe, which failed to abide by the regulations due to its design, has been ordered by the Xuhui District Administration for Market Regulation to rectify the problem and make its licensing information clearly visible to customers.
Wang Haiqing, one of the cafe’s three founders, said the information is shown on the cafe’s WeChat mini program.
The cafe opened on December 3, the annual International Day of People With Disabilities.
The unique service by the cafe, Hinichijou, has drawn a flood of visitors, who instantly go click happy with their mobiles as they pose for photos.
Wang said she and the other founders opened the cafe not only because of their common interest in coffee, but also to provide more jobs for people with disabilities.
Three of the cafe’s baristas are hearing-impaired, one of whom has won prizes in coffee-making competitions.
“We found they tend to do what they’re good at in a familiar environment,” said Wang. “We don’t want them to be disturbed, so we created this service mode.”
“It’s a unique concept,” said Julian from the United States who has been in Shanghai for about three years.
He had been waiting more than 30 minutes for his coffee.
“I think people should go there because the coffee shop is convenient or they think the coffee tastes good or they want to support the charity mission, but I don’t think people should go there just because it’s popular,” he said.
About 500 to 600 cups of coffee were served daily over the weekend. “It’s almost hit our capacity,” said Wang.
“I was attracted by the beautiful latte art, so I began to learn how to make coffee,” said 35-year-old Ying Ying, the cafe’s award-winning barista. “I hope customers like my coffee.”
Customers with disability certificates can get a special brew for free.
Wang said she and her partners plan more cafes with disabled employees with the support of the Shanghai Disabled Persons’ Federation.
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