Carrying on the sweet scent of an ancient tradition
Print Edition
Dozens of workers toil through the night coating thin lengths of bamboo in herbs, spices and richly colored powders to create incense sticks that are spread out under the rising sun to dry.
It is an important time of year for the villagers of Yongchun County, a mountainous area of Fujian Province that supplies much of the world鈥檚 incense.
Now, the clock is ticking with the approach of the Lunar New Year holiday later this month, when countless Chinese will pray and burn incense at temples and in traditional ceremonies.
The craft of producing incense runs deep in Dapu Town, where Hong Zhongsen operates a family business passed down through the generations.
鈥淢aking incense is very important for my family. It鈥檚 not just a business. It鈥檚 also to preserve an ancestral craft and a traditional religious culture,鈥 said Hong, 31, standing amid rows of brightly colored incense sticks.
It is believed that Arab traders brought incense to Yongchun, where the aromatic spices that they imported were combined with local bamboo.
Yongchun is now home to around 300 manufacturers, employing more than 30,000 people.
Locals claim that one in three incense sticks sold in Southeast Asia is made in Yongchun.
Around-the-clock production process involves up to 18 separate stages during which bamboo sticks are coated in fragrant herbs and spices and then dusted with powders of deep purple, red and yellow.
The messy process also leaves workers looking as if they had been dipped in the colors themselves.
The sticks are dried in the sun, a nerve-wracking step for workers like Li Xiuzhen, 57, due to the changeable weather.
鈥淚鈥檓 at the mercy of good weather,鈥 she said.
Through three generations of tweaking, Hong鈥檚 family has arrived at a secret recipe for which it is well known.
Demand is growing in China and in Southeast Asian countries like Malaysia and Indonesia that have prominent Chinese communities, as well as in Buddhist Thailand.
Shipments to Europe also are rising, Hong said.
His production has increased fourfold in the past 15 years to millions of sticks per day, necessitating the introduction of some automation.
But he still insists on several steps such as dying and drying the sticks being done by hand using age-old methods to preserve quality.
鈥淵ongchun incense is unique, with a special scent and texture. It鈥檚 an exquisite art and a slight difference in production may change the overall quality,鈥 Hong said.
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