When darkness falls, Kashgar’s vendors get busy
Print Edition
WHEN the sun began to set, tourists and locals crossed from the Id Kah Mosque, China’s largest, and headed for the night market.
“Anyone who comes here can eat like a king,” said Nurmamet Mametmin, who sells cold noodles in Khan Bazaar (King’s Market) in Kashgar, a city in northwest China’s Xinjiang Uygur Autonomous Region.
The 30-meter square is full to bursting with stalls selling the best of Kashgar cuisine — roast lamb, fried fish, pilaf, noodles, rice pudding with yogurt, and more.
The “city of bazaars,” Kashgar has 20 large markets. Its streets and alleys have seen merchants and travelers for 2,000 years, as the nation’s western-most city first rose to prominence as a trading post on the ancient Silk Road. Many local families have provided food and accommodation for travelers for generations.
Mametmin learned how to cook cold noodles from his father, who set up the stall in Khan Bazaar two decades ago.
The sun had not yet set, but Mametmin’s stall was already crowded with customers. He busied himself with sprinkling chopped pepper, mashed garlic, sauce and vinegar on top of noodles before serving the dish to his ravenous customers.
“People eating at this hour are mainly tourists and residents who are not observing the holy month of Ramadan,” he said. “More customers will come after dusk for iftar.”
During Ramadan, the Islamic season of fasting and spiritual reflection, which ends tomorrow this year, Muslims fast from dawn to dusk. Xinjiang, with some 24,000 mosques, is home to more than 13 million Muslims.
After serving a group of tourists, Mametmin, who had not eaten or drunk since sunrise, leaned on his stall, resting and waiting for more business.
When the sun went down, restaurants and stalls along the bazaar were crowded with Muslim customers who had fasted amid the summer heat.
“Ramadan is an occasion for us to learn to cherish and endure, and to cultivate peace in our mind,” said local resident Eli Erken.
As night fell, the shouting vendors, chatting customers, sizzling pans, bubbling pots and clinking tableware filled the sweet, smoky air.
“I don’t want to leave the city now, the food is just so delicious,” said tourist Jiang Tian, whose favorite Kashgar snack is roasted egg with honey.
“As tourism booms, our business does, too,” said Mamut Aji. The fried fish vendor takes home 3,000 yuan (US$451) a month.
As the sun began to rise and the call to prayer echoed across the city, Muslims welcomed another day of Ramadan.
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