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Celebrated chef offers a sneak preview for diners on a budget
By Aubrey Buckingham |
February 22, 2009, Sunday
|
Print Edition
Print Edition
AS diners start to feel the pinch and tighten their belts, many shun the more glamorous institutions in favor of a guaranteed feed. With tumultuous times hitting them where it hurts, namely the pocketbook, local residents are going to be less adventurous in their destinations.
Speculation is rife as to which of the expense account magnets will kick the bucket first. Many rumors have swirled around Jean-Georges, the eponymous Shanghai outpost of one of the world's most famous restaurateurs. The dwindling guests and splotchy consistency of late have already had tongues wagging as to its imminent demise; throw in the departure of the ever dependable kitchen stalwart Eric Johnson and you could be forgiven for suspecting the word on the street might have some weight to it.
Celebrity chefs are given flak (and often rightfully so) for setting up shop around the world and then sitting at home counting their cash. This is not the case for Jean-Georges Vongerichten, who has either cloned a body double or successfully manages to divide his time between his global empire of 18 restaurants. With many more on the way through deals with Starwood Hotels and Shangri-La Hotels and Resorts, it is to be expected of him that he continues to service each with a personal touch.
His visit here next month is certainly timely, mainly to put nay-saying to bed and to reaffirm his dedication to the Three on the Bund project. It is also the perfect time to unveil Lam Ming Kim as his new executive chef. The Hong Kong native has been with Jean-Georges Shanghai from its inception, and is the ideal man for the arduous task of putting the restaurant back at the forefront of the local culinary scene.
In the meantime, however, the establishment has responded to the global economic downturn and launched Nougatine here - a low-cost, no frills sampling of the Jean-Georges flair with a firm focus on heartiness and value. Replacing the ill-fated Bar JG, the spot will hopefully offer better use of this troublesome albeit dramatic, Michael Graves-designed space which previously served mainly as a conduit into the main dining room.
The recession may very well sound the death knell for the tasting menu, as folk return to the calm and comfort of the three or four course menu. For added value Nougatine offers a three-course set for 250 yuan (US$36.5) between 6pm and 7pm and after 9:30pm, with two choices for each course.
The spicy tuna tartar with black olive and cucumber was a stellar standout and epitomizes the Jean-George philosophy of incorporating Asian nuances into French cooking. The racy spiced fish was immaculately presented and coaxed the palate into sweet surrender with flavor and texture. If this was budget eating, then why not?
The potato gnocchi (68 yuan) was far less adventurous and almost underwhelming. It did exactly as it promised, but was a tad watery to my taste. Of course, the local market does prefer its tomato sauce to be a little less unctuous, so perhaps that was the segment they were going for.
The set-menu crispy chicken was not bad as far as chicken goes, but was, just as chicken goes, a little boring. The skin was fragrant, but, unlike as advertised, not exactly crispy. I was originally looking forward to the roasted pork chop with smoked chili glaze (148 yuan), but was kindly informed the pork that day did not pass muster. The slowly-cooked salmon (158 yuan) deemed adequate replacement - a huge chunk of moist, pink farmed fish that fell apart readily but was not flaky. Vongerichten pioneered the use of vinaigrettes about two decades ago and continues to be a faithful disciple to this day; the truffle vinaigrette - made from a reduction of Yunnan truffles - that formed a moat around the potato puree was a tad overwhelming on the nose and more than a little cloying, a problem maybe a firmer potato mash could address.
Pudding at Jean-Georges Shanghai is always a treat, and the Nougatine offerings are simply a condensed collection of Jason Casey's finest. The caramel roasted pear with ginger ice cream was a fitting finale to proceedings. The man can do desserts, 'nuff said.
The original Nougatine in New York's Upper West Side also shared the same kitchen as the Big Apple's original temple to gastronomy, Jean-Georges, with pilgrims passing through in reverence on their way to the main chamber of worship. This has led many dining on the cheaper option to insecurity, wallowing in their inability or unwillingness to splash the cash on a lavish meal.
Yet there is no need to feel shy when bargain hunting. The fare at Shanghai's Nougatine, while never hitting the same lofty heights nor dancing the same elegant manner as its fancier counterpart, still delivers a casual, fine dining experience with exemplary service that will neither confound you nor leave you craving a cheeseburger after.
Nor is the check going to be tiny either. A meal for two, with a bottle of fizzy water and two glasses of house white is going to set you back about 700 yuan. There are places with better value, that's a given, but if you want a preview of what Jean-George is all about before going the whole nine-yards, then Nougatine will prime you for what is to come.
Address: 4/F, 3 Zhongshan Rd E1
Tel: 6321-7733
Speculation is rife as to which of the expense account magnets will kick the bucket first. Many rumors have swirled around Jean-Georges, the eponymous Shanghai outpost of one of the world's most famous restaurateurs. The dwindling guests and splotchy consistency of late have already had tongues wagging as to its imminent demise; throw in the departure of the ever dependable kitchen stalwart Eric Johnson and you could be forgiven for suspecting the word on the street might have some weight to it.
Celebrity chefs are given flak (and often rightfully so) for setting up shop around the world and then sitting at home counting their cash. This is not the case for Jean-Georges Vongerichten, who has either cloned a body double or successfully manages to divide his time between his global empire of 18 restaurants. With many more on the way through deals with Starwood Hotels and Shangri-La Hotels and Resorts, it is to be expected of him that he continues to service each with a personal touch.
His visit here next month is certainly timely, mainly to put nay-saying to bed and to reaffirm his dedication to the Three on the Bund project. It is also the perfect time to unveil Lam Ming Kim as his new executive chef. The Hong Kong native has been with Jean-Georges Shanghai from its inception, and is the ideal man for the arduous task of putting the restaurant back at the forefront of the local culinary scene.
In the meantime, however, the establishment has responded to the global economic downturn and launched Nougatine here - a low-cost, no frills sampling of the Jean-Georges flair with a firm focus on heartiness and value. Replacing the ill-fated Bar JG, the spot will hopefully offer better use of this troublesome albeit dramatic, Michael Graves-designed space which previously served mainly as a conduit into the main dining room.
The recession may very well sound the death knell for the tasting menu, as folk return to the calm and comfort of the three or four course menu. For added value Nougatine offers a three-course set for 250 yuan (US$36.5) between 6pm and 7pm and after 9:30pm, with two choices for each course.
The spicy tuna tartar with black olive and cucumber was a stellar standout and epitomizes the Jean-George philosophy of incorporating Asian nuances into French cooking. The racy spiced fish was immaculately presented and coaxed the palate into sweet surrender with flavor and texture. If this was budget eating, then why not?
The potato gnocchi (68 yuan) was far less adventurous and almost underwhelming. It did exactly as it promised, but was a tad watery to my taste. Of course, the local market does prefer its tomato sauce to be a little less unctuous, so perhaps that was the segment they were going for.
The set-menu crispy chicken was not bad as far as chicken goes, but was, just as chicken goes, a little boring. The skin was fragrant, but, unlike as advertised, not exactly crispy. I was originally looking forward to the roasted pork chop with smoked chili glaze (148 yuan), but was kindly informed the pork that day did not pass muster. The slowly-cooked salmon (158 yuan) deemed adequate replacement - a huge chunk of moist, pink farmed fish that fell apart readily but was not flaky. Vongerichten pioneered the use of vinaigrettes about two decades ago and continues to be a faithful disciple to this day; the truffle vinaigrette - made from a reduction of Yunnan truffles - that formed a moat around the potato puree was a tad overwhelming on the nose and more than a little cloying, a problem maybe a firmer potato mash could address.
Pudding at Jean-Georges Shanghai is always a treat, and the Nougatine offerings are simply a condensed collection of Jason Casey's finest. The caramel roasted pear with ginger ice cream was a fitting finale to proceedings. The man can do desserts, 'nuff said.
The original Nougatine in New York's Upper West Side also shared the same kitchen as the Big Apple's original temple to gastronomy, Jean-Georges, with pilgrims passing through in reverence on their way to the main chamber of worship. This has led many dining on the cheaper option to insecurity, wallowing in their inability or unwillingness to splash the cash on a lavish meal.
Yet there is no need to feel shy when bargain hunting. The fare at Shanghai's Nougatine, while never hitting the same lofty heights nor dancing the same elegant manner as its fancier counterpart, still delivers a casual, fine dining experience with exemplary service that will neither confound you nor leave you craving a cheeseburger after.
Nor is the check going to be tiny either. A meal for two, with a bottle of fizzy water and two glasses of house white is going to set you back about 700 yuan. There are places with better value, that's a given, but if you want a preview of what Jean-George is all about before going the whole nine-yards, then Nougatine will prime you for what is to come.
Address: 4/F, 3 Zhongshan Rd E1
Tel: 6321-7733
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