WITH the summer temperature increasing we instinctively reach for water to supplement moisture content inside the body. As something we do naturally to relieve a thirst, drinking water is a simple and casual action. However, it can also be a fine and sophisticated experience.

Since the Ritz-Carlton Hotel in Battery Park, New York, announced hiring the world's first water sommelier in its restaurant around a decade ago, water has been transformed from a tasteless and taken-for-granted liquid to a key component of fine dining.

More and more epicures judge the quality of a restaurant, not only through its wine list, but also its water list. Here, we provide tips on how to find a water to your taste and how to pair it with food and wine.

Which water?

A survey of several supermarkets in Shanghai found that each sells more than 10 varieties of bottled water on average. For some supermarkets dominated by imported food, the water brands available can number more than 20. So given such a choice, how do you choose the most suitable?

Firstly, select a water according to your flavor preference. This may sound ludicrous since water is commonly considered as without flavor. However, a research paper published by Montana State University Extension Water Quality program confirmed that slight flavor differences can be detected from water sampled from various sources. Higher acidity gives water a subtle bitterness while a sweet perception is possible in a low-alkaline water, which explains why popular Chinese brand Nongfu Spring uses "a little sweet" as its advertising slogan. Some water is taken from volcanic sources and as a result it contains more complex flavors, combining acidity, saltiness and minerals.

Secondly, choose a water to meet your physical needs. Many modern people live an unhealthy life, especially those who eat food with a high proportion of fat and protein, which leads to a build up of acid waste in the body and further influences the pH balance of their blood. Water, estimated at occupying 70 percent of the body, plays an important role in flushing out the acidic waste and adjusting the pH of the blood. "International studies show that populations with little or no history of illness, such as cancer, drink higher alkaline waters," Dr. Leonard Horowitz, the leading authority on the subject of natural healing, said in his book "Aids and Ebola."

Put simply, if your bodily pH balance demonstrates greater acidity, choose a water with higher alkalinity; if you have an alkaline-heavy pH level, choose a water with a certain amount of acidity.

Perfect food partners

When diners choose a bottle of water from the drinks list, most of them do not take it as seriously as when they order a wine, but the right water plays an important role on the dining table, cleansing your palate before eating and enhancing or highlighting the flavor of the dish when served.

Andreas Larsson, an expert in pairing water and food honored as the Best Sommelier in the World in 2007, was recently invited to Shanghai to hold a masterclass, educating food and beverage lovers in China on the importance of the harmonization of natural water with fine food and wine. He shared with Shanghai Daily some food and water pairing rules.

Firstly, the mouthfeel of the water should be matched with the texture of the food. The crispy, acidic and bubbling mouthfeel of sparkling water is totally different to the smoother, sometimes feather-like feel of still water. "You can't use the same water to pair with soft and light steamed fish and crispy and heavy grilled pork," Andreas said.

Different sparkling waters can also present a variety of mouthfeels because of varying carbonation levels. For example, if the bubbles are slightly bold, crispy foods such as fried chicken and tempura are a good accompaniment. Fizzier waters with louder and larger bubbles stimulate the tongue which can enhance the flavor of a dish. Hence, spicy Sichuan cuisine such as hotpot and koushuiji (steamed chicken topped with chili sauce) are the best pairings. For slightly effervescent water, dishes such as sushi, sashimi and vegetable salad match well. A smaller extent of bubbles can refresh the mouth and highlight the dish flavor which is originally too light.

For still waters, if smooth and soft enough, jelly or mousse-like desserts are the perfect match. The water, on one hand makes the dessert more moisturous, but also gently cleans the palate, making way for a pure taste of the sweet flavor.

Secondly, the mineral content of the water should be considered. High TDS (Total Dissolved Solids) gives water substance and weight, giving the water a comparative hard character which can better withstand food with rich flavor such as Peking roast duck and foie gras, while low TDS gives water certain lightness and softness, which is harmonious with seafood, lettuce and sashimi. The wrong pairing may lead to a strong mineral flavor in the water overpowering light dishes, or a softer water unable to balance the oily and fatty senses left on the tongue by rich food.

However, in terms of water and food pairing, Zhao Qiang, a Chinese water sommelier gives a different answer in an interview with The Grand Hotels magazine. He considered that there's not a standard pairing rule, just like some people love to drink red wine with white meat. Water, for him, is more like a flexible tool to balance different flavors of the dishes, spicy, acidic and sweet.

In combination with wine

It's not necessary to pair a water with wine if you have already carefully ordered a table wine to match your food. However, if you are a perfectionist choose a bottle of still water to smooth your palate.

The opinion of wine and water pairing from several world-known sommeliers obviously shows that the TDS level, to a large extent determining body of the water, is still an important reference in choosing. In the book "Water Codex," Marcus del Monego, Best Sommelier in the World in 1998, recommends to pair light and fresh Riesling with a water with low TDS. Daniella Kramaric, Best Sommelier of Croatia 2000 and 2001, encourages using a heavy-bodied water with Coonawarra Shiraz, according to a report by a food magazine, "Its deep red hues and an aroma tinged with spices, flowers, and fruit buds such as blackberry and eucalyptus create an intensity that mingles perfectly with a heavy-bodied water."

Generally, red wine which has comparatively stronger body and rich flavor is better paired with high-TDS water while light and crispy white wine is more suitable with a low-TDS water.

Nevertheless, if you harvest a great wine with good vintage which deserves tasting separately, or are preparing to taste more than two kinds of wine at the same time, the importance of choosing the right water to pair with is apparent.

Before wine tasting, the mouth needs a complete cleansing. Many wine judges are asked to drink sparkling water to cleanse their palate during wine competitions to ensure the impartiality of their tasting result. Thus, a glass of sparkling water with moderate bubbles, which is enough to refresh your tongue, and low mineral content, to ensure no flavor left to dilute the wine, is indispensable.

Finally, as a friendly reminder, the temperature of the water should be higher than the wine to avoid the taster's attention being taken away from the wine.S.PellegrinoClassification: Sparkling water

Source of Region: Val Brembana, Italy

TDS: Hard

pH: 7.7

Mouthfeel: gentle bubbles and moderate mineral flavor together present a fresh and crispy perception, certain acidity remains on the taste buds.

Food and wine pairing: refreshing and cleansing, great with rich dishes such as grilled steak and braised pork; suitable for red wines with moderate body such as Pinot Noir and Merlot, can also pair with white wines with crispy perception such as Chardonnay.Acqua PannaClassification: Still water

Source of Region: Tuscany, Italy

TDS: Low

pH: 8.2

Mouthfeel: light and smooth, pleasantly soft and velvety.

Food and wine pairing: goes well with soft dishes such as chocolate mousse and cotton candy; also try to pair with light dishes such as steamed fish and cold tofu; match with a light and gentle Sauvignon Blanc, or try to pair with a sweet and smooth Noble Rot.PerrierClassification: Sparkling water

Source of Region: Vergèze, France

TDS: Medium

pH: 5.46

Mouthfeel: the strength of carbonation gives the water loud and big bubbles, giving the feel of a slight explosion on the tongue, quite refreshing which is suitable for hot weather.

Food and wine pairing: spicy food is a perfect match, no matter if it is Sichuan hotpot or curry crab, the hot and spicy flavor of such foods can be further amplified; Cabernet Sauvignon and Shriaz, with rich flavor and strong body are recommended wine pairings.EvianClassification: Still water

Source of Region: évian-les-Bains, France

TDS: Low

pH: 7.18

Mouthfeel: slippery and light, refreshing and luminous.

Food and wine pairing: pair with light and subtle dishes, such as sushi and fruit salad; the wine pairing is similar to that of Acqua Panna, generally choosing a wine with soft and gentle character.