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German whites struggle to win over local buyers
By Aubrey Buckingham |
May 10, 2009, Sunday
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Print Edition
Print Edition
IF there was any doubt as to why white wines struggle in China, a sampling of the benchmark for the "fairer" variety reveals the frustration in appreciating these wines.
German riesling has always been placed on the pedestal of longetivity but to the typical wine lover it requires a great deal of patience which cannot be nurtured overnight. The love for big, bold reds here is not the same infatuation the American market developed and a different approach is required to wean local drinkers onto them.
Far too often people in the business talk about "educating" the market to align it with the forces that pay their wages. While it is the job of the wine writer to consider these forces, it would also be remiss to suggest that just because the rest of the world thinks highly of such styles we must also.
During a recent wine dinner at Cool Dock's restaurant Stiller's, aficionados were given a taste of what the Rheingau has to offer. Producer Robert Weil is devoted to developing the finest whites his country has to offer, and its range of rieslings highlights the versatility of the styles.
In a candid conversation with the famed wine personality Jancis Robinson, the astute scribe revealed German rieslings to be one of the trusted components of her cellar. Weingut Robert Weil, now a component of Japan's Suntory corporation (which has invested in wine including Bordeaux's Chateau Lagrange) has led the way since 1875 in producing top drops and is now run by third generation Wilhem Weil whose wines are distributed here by Globus Wine. "We are elegant (wines) with very good fruit and have an easy match for food," said the great-grandson of the eponymous founder. "We want the markets to understand that our terroir makes some of the greatest wines in the world. Our advantage over the last 20 years is not only our (dedication to) quality but also the benefits of global warming."
Riesling, a delicate, late-ripening grape, has gained from the warmer conditions. While we may not immediately feel the effects of an additional one or two degrees, a plant relying on the weather will respond accordingly over a season.
The Rhine river affords a cool sea breeze, keeping the grape skins thin (as needed to keep the fruit warm) resulting in better acidity. A warmer season and additional "hang time" (grapes left longer on vines before harvesting) means that the backbone (acidity) is supported by flesh (fruity flavors).
The dinner at Stiller's revealed the elegance of Robert Weil's wines and provided a glimpse of what was to come. Most of the vintages were recent and the thread that linked them was their liveliness, even in the sweeter styles.
The 2007 Kiedrich Granfenberg Riesling Spatlese (a sweeter style) was of note and should appeal best to local palates. Despite residual sugar at 90 grams per liter, the elegant, juicy wine with deep complexity was still lean and cut straight through. Paired with a delightful foie gras with apples, onion and mashed potato, its versatility with food was apparent.
So too the 2007 Kiedrich Grafenberg Riesling Kabinett Trocken (a dry style) was a delightful match with dill cured trout. These wines went swimmingly with the continental cuisine style but also match Asian cooking perfectly.
Many wine lovers are banging on about the suitability of crisp whites with Asian, especially Chinese, fare but consumers are yet to be convinced. Robert Weil wines highlighted the gulf in expectations between producers and local wine fans. While these are deep, complex offerings, the best in them only truly show with age. The qualities are there but it can prove to be an arduous task identifying the key components. "Rielsing has great aging potential, especially the sweeter ones. Our top dry wines have a potential of a minimum 20 years while (the sweet styles) can last 100 years or more. We focus on this potential," said Weil. The wines are micro-oxidated to provide better links between tannins and are aged in old, 1,200 liter German oak so as not to impart too much wood flavor.
Still, it is hard to convince locals to be patient with the wines which is perhaps why true-blue wine lovers are so enamored of them. The fruiter New World styles suit local tastes more and convincing them to sit on a case, no matter how good, will be a tough task.
German riesling has always been placed on the pedestal of longetivity but to the typical wine lover it requires a great deal of patience which cannot be nurtured overnight. The love for big, bold reds here is not the same infatuation the American market developed and a different approach is required to wean local drinkers onto them.
Far too often people in the business talk about "educating" the market to align it with the forces that pay their wages. While it is the job of the wine writer to consider these forces, it would also be remiss to suggest that just because the rest of the world thinks highly of such styles we must also.
During a recent wine dinner at Cool Dock's restaurant Stiller's, aficionados were given a taste of what the Rheingau has to offer. Producer Robert Weil is devoted to developing the finest whites his country has to offer, and its range of rieslings highlights the versatility of the styles.
In a candid conversation with the famed wine personality Jancis Robinson, the astute scribe revealed German rieslings to be one of the trusted components of her cellar. Weingut Robert Weil, now a component of Japan's Suntory corporation (which has invested in wine including Bordeaux's Chateau Lagrange) has led the way since 1875 in producing top drops and is now run by third generation Wilhem Weil whose wines are distributed here by Globus Wine. "We are elegant (wines) with very good fruit and have an easy match for food," said the great-grandson of the eponymous founder. "We want the markets to understand that our terroir makes some of the greatest wines in the world. Our advantage over the last 20 years is not only our (dedication to) quality but also the benefits of global warming."
Riesling, a delicate, late-ripening grape, has gained from the warmer conditions. While we may not immediately feel the effects of an additional one or two degrees, a plant relying on the weather will respond accordingly over a season.
The Rhine river affords a cool sea breeze, keeping the grape skins thin (as needed to keep the fruit warm) resulting in better acidity. A warmer season and additional "hang time" (grapes left longer on vines before harvesting) means that the backbone (acidity) is supported by flesh (fruity flavors).
The dinner at Stiller's revealed the elegance of Robert Weil's wines and provided a glimpse of what was to come. Most of the vintages were recent and the thread that linked them was their liveliness, even in the sweeter styles.
The 2007 Kiedrich Granfenberg Riesling Spatlese (a sweeter style) was of note and should appeal best to local palates. Despite residual sugar at 90 grams per liter, the elegant, juicy wine with deep complexity was still lean and cut straight through. Paired with a delightful foie gras with apples, onion and mashed potato, its versatility with food was apparent.
So too the 2007 Kiedrich Grafenberg Riesling Kabinett Trocken (a dry style) was a delightful match with dill cured trout. These wines went swimmingly with the continental cuisine style but also match Asian cooking perfectly.
Many wine lovers are banging on about the suitability of crisp whites with Asian, especially Chinese, fare but consumers are yet to be convinced. Robert Weil wines highlighted the gulf in expectations between producers and local wine fans. While these are deep, complex offerings, the best in them only truly show with age. The qualities are there but it can prove to be an arduous task identifying the key components. "Rielsing has great aging potential, especially the sweeter ones. Our top dry wines have a potential of a minimum 20 years while (the sweet styles) can last 100 years or more. We focus on this potential," said Weil. The wines are micro-oxidated to provide better links between tannins and are aged in old, 1,200 liter German oak so as not to impart too much wood flavor.
Still, it is hard to convince locals to be patient with the wines which is perhaps why true-blue wine lovers are so enamored of them. The fruiter New World styles suit local tastes more and convincing them to sit on a case, no matter how good, will be a tough task.
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