Related News
Grand dining's common touch
By Yu-huay Sun |
January 11, 2009, Sunday
|
Print Edition
Print Edition
THE taxi driver's response when I told him to take me to Taipei's Grand Hotel was, "So is the 'president' treating you to dinner?" No, but it was a good guess.
The Grand Hotel, commissioned by Taiwan's former leader Chiang Kai-shek in 1952, completed in 1973 and refurbished in 1998 after a fire, has for decades received dignitaries visiting the island that is now establishing new ties to the mainland.
On the outskirts of downtown Taipei, the hotel's palace-style architecture and bright colors stand out against the hilly background - a landmark quite visible on the commute to the city from the airport.
The Grand Hotel's northern-Chinese style yellow-tiled roof and red pillars resemble the Forbidden City in Beijing. The hotel has seven restaurants and bars.
The VIP guests are feted at the Chinese Dining Room where three chefs prepare Sichuan- and Yangtze-style state banquets. Western cuisine is available at the Grand Garden and after-dinner drinks are served at the Li Bai Lounge, named after the Tang Dynasty poet.
My Filipino friend and I had simpler taste: We just wanted some noodles and buns. We went to Yuan Yuan, a second-floor restaurant that serves the mainland cuisines.
The wooden tables and chairs in Yuan Yuan reminded me of the inns featured in kung fu movies set in ancient China.
Yuan Yuan offers some of the island's best Chinese fare, including the red-bean rice cake - made with glutinous-rice flour, beans and shredded papaya - said to be a favorite of Chiang's wife Soong May Ling. The dessert is best eaten hot.
My friend and I also had braised-noodle soup with chicken and ham. The noodles were expertly cooked and saturated with the meat flavors of the soup base.
Yuan Yuan's dim-sum was a hit with my 86-year-old grandmother and young nephew.
At a visit two weeks earlier, we had fried spring-rolls, my grandmother's favorite. It's among the best of its kind, given the quality of its stuffing: a nice mix of shredded mushrooms and bamboo shoots, with a little minced meat.
My nephew asked for a third helping of the crab meat and pork buns, unusual for the 6-year-old, who didn't like meat. I wasn't surprised; he was probably as hooked on the creamy texture of the crab meat and roe as we were.
The wok-fried icy dumplings, another trademark Yuan Yuan dish, were disappointing. The white, lace-like, wheat-flour crisps were supposed to resemble snow flakes, but didn't. Its meat filling tasted like those in pot stickers sold in street-side stores.
Those seeking a good variety of alcoholic beverages would be disappointed. Yuan Yuan has only three brands of beer and vintage Shaoxing wine, the Chinese version of whiskey. There's a good range of tea, though, including Taiwan-produced oolong and jasmine.
The Grand Hotel is decorated with traditional Chinese ink paintings and calligraphies, not that its younger guests would appreciate them. My nephew pulled down a scroll during our visit. Thankfully, the staff simply smiled at the little menace.
The hotel was built for the privileged: senior officials, their guests and wealthy tourists. Now, it has become affordable to commoners, whom Taiwan's new leader Ma Ying-jeou call "my bosses," making Yuan Yuan an ideal restaurant for families and friends.
The Grand Hotel, commissioned by Taiwan's former leader Chiang Kai-shek in 1952, completed in 1973 and refurbished in 1998 after a fire, has for decades received dignitaries visiting the island that is now establishing new ties to the mainland.
On the outskirts of downtown Taipei, the hotel's palace-style architecture and bright colors stand out against the hilly background - a landmark quite visible on the commute to the city from the airport.
The Grand Hotel's northern-Chinese style yellow-tiled roof and red pillars resemble the Forbidden City in Beijing. The hotel has seven restaurants and bars.
The VIP guests are feted at the Chinese Dining Room where three chefs prepare Sichuan- and Yangtze-style state banquets. Western cuisine is available at the Grand Garden and after-dinner drinks are served at the Li Bai Lounge, named after the Tang Dynasty poet.
My Filipino friend and I had simpler taste: We just wanted some noodles and buns. We went to Yuan Yuan, a second-floor restaurant that serves the mainland cuisines.
The wooden tables and chairs in Yuan Yuan reminded me of the inns featured in kung fu movies set in ancient China.
Yuan Yuan offers some of the island's best Chinese fare, including the red-bean rice cake - made with glutinous-rice flour, beans and shredded papaya - said to be a favorite of Chiang's wife Soong May Ling. The dessert is best eaten hot.
My friend and I also had braised-noodle soup with chicken and ham. The noodles were expertly cooked and saturated with the meat flavors of the soup base.
Yuan Yuan's dim-sum was a hit with my 86-year-old grandmother and young nephew.
At a visit two weeks earlier, we had fried spring-rolls, my grandmother's favorite. It's among the best of its kind, given the quality of its stuffing: a nice mix of shredded mushrooms and bamboo shoots, with a little minced meat.
My nephew asked for a third helping of the crab meat and pork buns, unusual for the 6-year-old, who didn't like meat. I wasn't surprised; he was probably as hooked on the creamy texture of the crab meat and roe as we were.
The wok-fried icy dumplings, another trademark Yuan Yuan dish, were disappointing. The white, lace-like, wheat-flour crisps were supposed to resemble snow flakes, but didn't. Its meat filling tasted like those in pot stickers sold in street-side stores.
Those seeking a good variety of alcoholic beverages would be disappointed. Yuan Yuan has only three brands of beer and vintage Shaoxing wine, the Chinese version of whiskey. There's a good range of tea, though, including Taiwan-produced oolong and jasmine.
The Grand Hotel is decorated with traditional Chinese ink paintings and calligraphies, not that its younger guests would appreciate them. My nephew pulled down a scroll during our visit. Thankfully, the staff simply smiled at the little menace.
The hotel was built for the privileged: senior officials, their guests and wealthy tourists. Now, it has become affordable to commoners, whom Taiwan's new leader Ma Ying-jeou call "my bosses," making Yuan Yuan an ideal restaurant for families and friends.
- About Us
- |
- Terms of Use
- |
-
RSS - |
- Privacy Policy
- |
- Contact Us
- |
- Shanghai Call Center: 962288
- |
- Tip-off hotline: 52920043
- 沪ICP证：沪ICP备05050403号-1
- |
- 互联网新闻信息服务许可证：31120180004
- |
- 网络视听许可证：0909346
- |
- 广播电视节目制作许可证：沪字第354号
- |
- 增值电信业务经营许可证：沪B2-20120012
Copyright © 1999- Shanghai Daily. All rights reserved.Preferably viewed with Internet Explorer 8 or newer browsers.
