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Retailers move to take on an ethical identity

ECO-FRIENDLY, sustainable and ethical are words that have become part of the permanent lexicon of manufacturers and retailers in recent years. From the smallest 46-square-meter shop to the mass chain with 1,000-plus stores, companies are looking to lower their carbon footprints, conserve energy, identify ethical sourcing partners and educate consumers about the benefits of saving the planet.

According to a survey by WSL Strategic Retail, 55 percent of consumers buy organic products, up from 49 percent a year ago. Many companies are making investments that will lead to cost-saving efficiencies.

A healthy regard for the environment has become part of many firms' identities, from Patagonia to, yes, Wal-Mart. For others, such as the Gap, eco-sensitive products and ethical sourcing is part of the culture, something that employees have come to expect and consumers increasingly demand.

Sylvie Benard, director of environment at Louis Vuitton Moet Hennessy, said the idea of environmental initiatives being more expensive than traditional methods is not necessarily true and maintaining environmental efforts in the downturn makes economic sense. "The message that the environment costs a lot has passed," she said. "It has really evolved."

Maintain commitment

Benard noted that LVMH will maintain its investments this year in everything from boutiques that consume less energy to carbon audits to water measurement.

These will ultimately lead to cost-savings for the group. To companies wondering whether they can maintain their commitment to the environment in the midst of an economic crisis, she said, "we must not stop everything because the financial situation isn't as good as we would hope. These are resources that will one day disappear. They are irreplaceable. No matter what the financial situation or social situation, we have to continue to tackle that."

A stricter regulatory landscape, such as Europe's Registration, Evaluation, Authorization and Restriction of Chemicals, which came into force last year, is prompting some companies to jump on the green bandwagon. Businesses must respond to new obligations, economic crisis or not.

Some government policies see green as the route to recovery. The French Ministry of Ecology is working on developing a label for eco-friendly products by 2011 and possibly lowering the value added tax on products deemed eco-friendly.

H&M plans to increase its organic cotton products stable by 50 percent this year, given consumers' desire to buy sustainable products, said Harsha Vardhan, H&M's global environment coordinator.

"The price gap between organic and ordinary cotton has narrowed sharply from a previous 100 percent to 20 to 30 percent due to higher production volume and the growing number of suppliers, making this a much more affordable alternative," she said.

From her small store on First Avenue in downtown Manhattan, Lisa Linhardt sells her environmentally sensitive jewelry: engagement rings with ethical diamonds mined in Canada, rings and necklaces made from wood scraps donated by a furniture company and jewelry made from organic South American tagua seeds.

"Customers are reacting positively to it and they are willing to pay more for it," Linhardt said. "In order to be green, you have to have an environmental conscience and a social conscience."

One of the strongest emerging trends in Europe is a move away from throwaway fashion toward more lasting apparel. French consumers are fed up with clothes that don't last. "We are starting to see more people complaining that clothing isn't good quality and falls apart too quickly," said Nathalie Ruelle, professor and sustainable fashion consultant at the Institue Francais de la Mode.




 

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