There’s more to Mexican than just tacos
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MEXICO City, the sprawling megacity with 20 million people, is going through a renaissance through its gastronomy.
For many, Mexican food means tacos, fajitas and margaritas.
But when you arrive in the city, you would probably get confused when the waiter presents a menu full of local specialties you might never have heard of.
The city, and the country in general, place great importance on dining. It offers some of the best tastes and flavors, from the ubiquitous taco vendors to its upscale restaurants.
Two of the city’s fine restaurants recently won 20th and 22nd place in The World’s 50 Best Restaurants 2017, taking the local cuisine to the next level.
Mexican cooking mastero Enrique Olvera has taken Mexican food from the street to haute cuisine using every thing from chicatana flying ants to octopus and suckling pig at Pujol (20th position in the World’s 50 Best) in the upscale Polanco district of the city. And Olvera’s protégée Jorge Vallejo has developed a fine reputation worldwide with his discreet dining room Quintonil that ranks 22th of the World’s 50 Best.
Old and new are meeting in Mexico City’s vibrant food scene. Make sure you visit some of the favorite dining venues combining not-to-be-missed authentic treats and the nouvelle Mexican cuisine.
El Tizoncito
The simple, authentic place for Mexican fast food is not to be missed. Located in the trendy Condesa area you will eat alongside locals who come for the “tacos break” at any time of a day.
Taco al pastor is perhaps the most signature taco associated with the capital itself. A Mexican variation of shawarma, the grilled marinated pork roasted on a spit is thinly sliced off in front of you, enhanced with chopped onion, pineapple and a mixture of herbs, then rolled up in a small tortilla.
There is a wide array of tacos, quesadillas, and other local snacks on offer. Be sure to order the different flavored water such as the almond water or the beer with lemon juice.
Café de Tacuba
Hand-painted antique tiles, 18th-century paintings and waitresses in traditional aprons contribute to the old-world charm of Café de Tacuba.
In the center of the historical quarter, it is frequented by the many tourists coming for traditional Mexican dishes after tackling Mexico City’s sights.
Favorites are the chicken tacos with guacamole and tamales.
Tamales, unusually found in other countries, are pockets of corn dough stuffed with either a sweet or savory filling, wrapped in banana leaves and steamed. It resembles Chinese zongzi; instead of glutinous rice, the corn dough is favored by Mexicans.
Pujol
Enrique Olvera is undoubtedly one of the leaders in the renaissance of Mexican cuisine and his flagship restaurant Pujol in the city’s trendy Polanco district recently won 20th in the World’s 50 Best.
The city’s premier culinary venue feels like a fine-dining destination. Yet it’s relaxed and warm enough to make guests feel at home.
On my recent visit, a gourmet street snack kicked off the tasting menu — a baby corn with powdered ants (Mexicans love their ants) in a special sauce that is complicated and full of flavors.
The tasting menu is relatively short compared to other gourmet restaurants of global reputation and it includes personal choice for four courses.
The chef is keen on promoting a relaxed gourmet experience without an over-long menu. Most of the courses are inspired by simple Mexican fare, but sophistically updated with the chef’s personal touch.
Try the signature Mole Madre, Mole Nuevo: a plate with a perfect circle of fresh mole sauce encased in an outer layer of mole that has been aged for more than 1,000 days. It was indicated Mole Madre was 1,279 days in my menu.
Chef Olvera surely loves his country’s rich sauce containing many different ingredients by contrasting the flavors of two moles (new and old).
Pujol celebrates all things Mexican and a foreign guest would learn and taste new flavors alongside with the country’s extensive range of spirits, wine and cocktails.
However, the service is not so attentive and the experience did not live up to its global reputation.
Restaurante Antiguo San Angel Inn
San Angel Inn is an old-school concept, set in a lovely 18th-century hacienda exuding an old-world charm just opposite the house of famous Mexican artist Diego Rivera. Elegant dining rooms surround a beautifully kept garden and a large courtyard with colors and flowers in abundance.
This is a place to indulge in a long-hours lunch in the central garden, a relaxing afternoon tea or aperitif in the comfy chairs along the veranda and an elegant dinner served from some of the most professional waiters in the city. A must visit for any tourist yet the place is genuinely local with dressed up locals dine and wine here.
While there are international dishes in the menu, the Mexican delicacies are the stars, like the different tacos, escamoles with guacamole. The dessert tray displays Bavarian cream with strawberries and blackberries to the cheese cake, is a don’t-miss.
Condesa DF Rooftop
High above the streets of Mexico City, many rooftop bars offer vibrant city views. Located inside a boutique hotel in the trendy La Condesa neighborhood, the rooftop at Condesa DF offers a plethora of delicacies and drinks, frequented by the trendy locals and hotel guests. The Jamaica margarita is unarguably one of the best you can find in town.
The bar also offers some creative cocktails inspired by the local ingredients and liquors such as Cucumber Mezcal Mojito, Jamaica Condesa, Mezcoco.
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