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Unique hobby for the rich
By Aubrey Buckingham |
June 14, 2009, Sunday
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Print Edition
THERE are many, having made their fortunes elsewhere, who look to dabble in more sophisticated pursuits after the lure of the daily grind begins to wane. While mere mortals are content to purchase a sports car or fiddle with a boat, there exists a class of landed gentry unshackled by economic limitations and are able to make more substantial investment toward grander schemes the rest of us can only dream of.
Buying a wine estate is most definitely a privilege left for the rich, and buying one in France requires what could best be described as "megabucks." While many are reluctant to reveal the exact amount paid for these parcels of fertile soil, the French government recently revealed the price of land in the up and coming Languedoc Roussillon region to be about 4,580 euros (US$6,416) per hectare.
Still, average prices tell us very little, and the real price for a quality chunk of terroir is closer to 10,000 euros per hectare.
Among these wine fledglings is advertising legend Sir John Hegarty, whose firm Bartle Bogle and Hegarty (BBH) has sent shockwaves reverberating through the advertising world with memorable campaigns for Levis jeans, Audi and Vodafone, among many others.
Old farmhouse
The third Brit inducted into the United States Advertising Hall of Fame, his pedigree in the ad world is unparalleled, and in 2002, he and his partner (and former BBH board member) Philippa Crane bought Domaine de Chamans -- an old farmhouse in the foothills of the Montagne Noire with 25 hectares of vines. Surely a gentleman like him would be far too clever to take such a risk?
"People say it's a great way of losing money," he said with a jolly chuckle; throughout the evening Sir John insists we drop his title although it is something he naturally exudes rather than wears. "I've always been a huge fan of wine. I never actually thought if you'd said to me 10 years ago 'One day John, you'll have a vineyard,' I would have laughed. I have a little phrase I use when people say to me 'Do you have a five-year plan?' I have a five-minute plan. I'm very impulsive as a person."
According to the 65-year-old, the reason he bought a vineyard was because he wished to escape his city roots. "It would be good to have something to do in the countryside. I couldn't bear just having a house, I wanted to do something and contribute."
As the astute wine writer Jancis Robinson points out, a conversation with Hegarty is packed with aphorisms, which she assumes to be his natural mode even when beyond the confines of the boardroom.
The Languedoc was especially appealing to the Londoner, as it was (and still is) deemed one of the most exciting regions in France, let alone the world. He renovated the cave (the vineyard had been in operation before as part of a co-op) and brought in modern equipment, and installed a young French wine maker, Samuel Berger.
Domaine de Chamans released its first vintage in 2003, which proved remarkably tricky ("a challenging vintage, new cave, new wine maker, new experience") but ultimately proved fruitful. The estate practices organic principles, and gets certified this year. It grows the typical Languedoc mix of carignan, grenache, syrah, mourvedre and cinsault, as well as white marsanne and rousanne.
"The great advantage we've got is we're isolated from any other vineyard, so we can follow our own farming policy. We don't suffer other people's spraying. The vineyard is also contiguous around the cave, so we don't have to transport the grapes long distances. When you're drinking Chamans, you're drinking the place. We are genuinely giving you what this vineyard produces."
Hegarty Chamans releases three labels, conveniently labeled No. 3, No. 2 and No. 1, in ascending order of quality. Unfortunately as it stands, it feels like No. 3 and 2 are mere footnotes in the production of the well sought-after No. 1.
The No. 1 is a blend of 60 percent syrah and 40 percent carignan, and represents everything exciting about the region it comes from.
A racy nose of black fruit and licorice and restraint on the typical meatiness found in the wines of this style, the palate was a rewarding mouthful of crisp acidity and beautifully integrated ripe tannins with a soft, satiny finish. The same blackcurrant and other dark fruits were dangled from the great structure.
With such advertising pedigree behind the Domaine, surely promoting the wine is no problem. Not so, according to Hegarty. "I'm in a market where I possibly have half a million competitors whereas every other market I work in I have only up to 12. Establishing a brand in the wine industry takes a very, very, very long time."
Buying a wine estate is most definitely a privilege left for the rich, and buying one in France requires what could best be described as "megabucks." While many are reluctant to reveal the exact amount paid for these parcels of fertile soil, the French government recently revealed the price of land in the up and coming Languedoc Roussillon region to be about 4,580 euros (US$6,416) per hectare.
Still, average prices tell us very little, and the real price for a quality chunk of terroir is closer to 10,000 euros per hectare.
Among these wine fledglings is advertising legend Sir John Hegarty, whose firm Bartle Bogle and Hegarty (BBH) has sent shockwaves reverberating through the advertising world with memorable campaigns for Levis jeans, Audi and Vodafone, among many others.
Old farmhouse
The third Brit inducted into the United States Advertising Hall of Fame, his pedigree in the ad world is unparalleled, and in 2002, he and his partner (and former BBH board member) Philippa Crane bought Domaine de Chamans -- an old farmhouse in the foothills of the Montagne Noire with 25 hectares of vines. Surely a gentleman like him would be far too clever to take such a risk?
"People say it's a great way of losing money," he said with a jolly chuckle; throughout the evening Sir John insists we drop his title although it is something he naturally exudes rather than wears. "I've always been a huge fan of wine. I never actually thought if you'd said to me 10 years ago 'One day John, you'll have a vineyard,' I would have laughed. I have a little phrase I use when people say to me 'Do you have a five-year plan?' I have a five-minute plan. I'm very impulsive as a person."
According to the 65-year-old, the reason he bought a vineyard was because he wished to escape his city roots. "It would be good to have something to do in the countryside. I couldn't bear just having a house, I wanted to do something and contribute."
As the astute wine writer Jancis Robinson points out, a conversation with Hegarty is packed with aphorisms, which she assumes to be his natural mode even when beyond the confines of the boardroom.
The Languedoc was especially appealing to the Londoner, as it was (and still is) deemed one of the most exciting regions in France, let alone the world. He renovated the cave (the vineyard had been in operation before as part of a co-op) and brought in modern equipment, and installed a young French wine maker, Samuel Berger.
Domaine de Chamans released its first vintage in 2003, which proved remarkably tricky ("a challenging vintage, new cave, new wine maker, new experience") but ultimately proved fruitful. The estate practices organic principles, and gets certified this year. It grows the typical Languedoc mix of carignan, grenache, syrah, mourvedre and cinsault, as well as white marsanne and rousanne.
"The great advantage we've got is we're isolated from any other vineyard, so we can follow our own farming policy. We don't suffer other people's spraying. The vineyard is also contiguous around the cave, so we don't have to transport the grapes long distances. When you're drinking Chamans, you're drinking the place. We are genuinely giving you what this vineyard produces."
Hegarty Chamans releases three labels, conveniently labeled No. 3, No. 2 and No. 1, in ascending order of quality. Unfortunately as it stands, it feels like No. 3 and 2 are mere footnotes in the production of the well sought-after No. 1.
The No. 1 is a blend of 60 percent syrah and 40 percent carignan, and represents everything exciting about the region it comes from.
A racy nose of black fruit and licorice and restraint on the typical meatiness found in the wines of this style, the palate was a rewarding mouthful of crisp acidity and beautifully integrated ripe tannins with a soft, satiny finish. The same blackcurrant and other dark fruits were dangled from the great structure.
With such advertising pedigree behind the Domaine, surely promoting the wine is no problem. Not so, according to Hegarty. "I'm in a market where I possibly have half a million competitors whereas every other market I work in I have only up to 12. Establishing a brand in the wine industry takes a very, very, very long time."
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