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A dress with an interesting history
By Li Wei and Yang Di |
October 10, 2010, Sunday
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Print Edition
Print Edition
WHEN it comes to accentuating a woman's curves, qipao, or cheongsam, with its high collar, tight-fitting cut and slits at either side of the skirt, is perhaps the only garment capable of doing it implicitly.
The selection of more than 20 qipao outfits worn by Hong Kong actress Maggie Cheung in "In the Mood for Love" is the best illustration of its graceful bearing.
Qipao gets its name from the era when the Manchu ruled China during the Qing Dynasty (1644-1911). Certain social strata among the Manchu known as the Banners (qi) emerged, and Manchu women typically wore a one-piece dress that came to be known as the qipao.
Due to its restrictive nature, it is now mainly worn as formal wear for important occasions. It is sometimes worn by politicians and film stars in Taiwan and Hong Kong. For instance, Madam Soong Ching-ling wore qipao when she received foreign envoys or ventured out of the country on her many diplomatic missions. They are also shown in movies based in China such as 1960's "The World of Suzie Wong," where actress Nancy Kwan briefly made the cheongsam fashionable in Western culture.
From the loose-fitting straight-cut of the 1920s, to the racier sheer dresses of the 1930s, the qipao's inspiration has sparkled throughout. From the time when it was an item worn only by the rich, to becoming the daily attire of every common woman, there's more to qipao than being just a dress.
Sarah Jessica Parker, the leading actress in "Sex and the City," once said: "Every woman deserves a pair of Jimmy Choo." The same rings true for qipao with every woman in China.Hanyi ? Fusion of classic and modern
It is said to be one of the best qipao stores in Shanghai. What makes it famous is not only the qipaos themselves, but the 93-year-old shifu (qipao master) Chu who is by far the oldest and most experienced qipao master in Shanghai. Even now, Chu measures the customer by himself to ensure the perfect fit. That explains why so many celebrities have paid him a visit, including Jackie Chan's family.
More recently, with Vogue magazine featuring qipaos in its photoshoots and the film "In the Mood of Love" showing Maggie Cheung wearing many qipao items, this low-key boutique is finally gaining recognition. There are both ready-to-wear and customized items in the store with prices ranging from 1,800 yuan (US$268) for a simple silk qipao, to more exquisite, customized pieces for more than 10,000 yuan (US$1,400). Usually a simple costume without any embroidery would take three weeks to make while those with embroidery can take more than one month. Express orders require a minimum of 40 percent extra.
Jin Zhi Yu Ye - Bold colors
Going through the store gate, the antique arch and retro sofa are a reminder of the old Shanghai, with a woman in a high-neck qipao leaning against the wall with a cigar in hand. But what makes this store different from others is the bold use of color. The designer is a fashion school graduate who can assist customers in choosing the right fabric and style, incorporating a range of local and Japanese cloth including silk, lace and print material. The natural fabrics such as silk, cotton and hemp are guaranteed. A garment can be made in 10 to 15 days if there is no embroidery and the design is simple, but more elaborate items can take up to one month to make. Silk dresses cost around 2,000 yuan (US$298) to be custom made and one with handmade embroidery could set you back up to 15,000 yuan (US$2,240). Now a series of Lotus-themed qipao have been released in store.
Opening hours: 10am-9:30pm
Address: 72 Maoming Rd S.
Tel: 6431-4398 Qipao by Jane - Wear art
Designer and owner Jane Zhu, a Chinese-born American, believes that every Qipao by Jane is a work of art in its own right, a collaboration between the customer and Jane. Once an order is confirmed, a consultation and measurement session will be arranged within 24 hours. After the process of fabric selection and measurement by an experienced tailor, a custom-made qipao will be presented in three to six weeks. With her fashion design experience and keen sense of style, the designer guarantees a professional dress-making experience. With options including super-fine silk and embroidery, dresses are priced from 3,800 yuan (US$567) to 12,000 yuan (US$1,790). A particular bonus is life-long service for any qipaos made by Jane. Located in the famous luxury Bund 18, Qipao by Jane is ready to customize your qipao with a royal service.
Opening hours: 10am?10pm
Address: 2/F, 18 Zhongshan Rd E1
Tel: 6245-3678
The selection of more than 20 qipao outfits worn by Hong Kong actress Maggie Cheung in "In the Mood for Love" is the best illustration of its graceful bearing.
Qipao gets its name from the era when the Manchu ruled China during the Qing Dynasty (1644-1911). Certain social strata among the Manchu known as the Banners (qi) emerged, and Manchu women typically wore a one-piece dress that came to be known as the qipao.
Due to its restrictive nature, it is now mainly worn as formal wear for important occasions. It is sometimes worn by politicians and film stars in Taiwan and Hong Kong. For instance, Madam Soong Ching-ling wore qipao when she received foreign envoys or ventured out of the country on her many diplomatic missions. They are also shown in movies based in China such as 1960's "The World of Suzie Wong," where actress Nancy Kwan briefly made the cheongsam fashionable in Western culture.
From the loose-fitting straight-cut of the 1920s, to the racier sheer dresses of the 1930s, the qipao's inspiration has sparkled throughout. From the time when it was an item worn only by the rich, to becoming the daily attire of every common woman, there's more to qipao than being just a dress.
Sarah Jessica Parker, the leading actress in "Sex and the City," once said: "Every woman deserves a pair of Jimmy Choo." The same rings true for qipao with every woman in China.Hanyi ? Fusion of classic and modern
It is said to be one of the best qipao stores in Shanghai. What makes it famous is not only the qipaos themselves, but the 93-year-old shifu (qipao master) Chu who is by far the oldest and most experienced qipao master in Shanghai. Even now, Chu measures the customer by himself to ensure the perfect fit. That explains why so many celebrities have paid him a visit, including Jackie Chan's family.
More recently, with Vogue magazine featuring qipaos in its photoshoots and the film "In the Mood of Love" showing Maggie Cheung wearing many qipao items, this low-key boutique is finally gaining recognition. There are both ready-to-wear and customized items in the store with prices ranging from 1,800 yuan (US$268) for a simple silk qipao, to more exquisite, customized pieces for more than 10,000 yuan (US$1,400). Usually a simple costume without any embroidery would take three weeks to make while those with embroidery can take more than one month. Express orders require a minimum of 40 percent extra.
Jin Zhi Yu Ye - Bold colors
Going through the store gate, the antique arch and retro sofa are a reminder of the old Shanghai, with a woman in a high-neck qipao leaning against the wall with a cigar in hand. But what makes this store different from others is the bold use of color. The designer is a fashion school graduate who can assist customers in choosing the right fabric and style, incorporating a range of local and Japanese cloth including silk, lace and print material. The natural fabrics such as silk, cotton and hemp are guaranteed. A garment can be made in 10 to 15 days if there is no embroidery and the design is simple, but more elaborate items can take up to one month to make. Silk dresses cost around 2,000 yuan (US$298) to be custom made and one with handmade embroidery could set you back up to 15,000 yuan (US$2,240). Now a series of Lotus-themed qipao have been released in store.
Opening hours: 10am-9:30pm
Address: 72 Maoming Rd S.
Tel: 6431-4398 Qipao by Jane - Wear art
Designer and owner Jane Zhu, a Chinese-born American, believes that every Qipao by Jane is a work of art in its own right, a collaboration between the customer and Jane. Once an order is confirmed, a consultation and measurement session will be arranged within 24 hours. After the process of fabric selection and measurement by an experienced tailor, a custom-made qipao will be presented in three to six weeks. With her fashion design experience and keen sense of style, the designer guarantees a professional dress-making experience. With options including super-fine silk and embroidery, dresses are priced from 3,800 yuan (US$567) to 12,000 yuan (US$1,790). A particular bonus is life-long service for any qipaos made by Jane. Located in the famous luxury Bund 18, Qipao by Jane is ready to customize your qipao with a royal service.
Opening hours: 10am?10pm
Address: 2/F, 18 Zhongshan Rd E1
Tel: 6245-3678
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