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April 24, 2010

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American designers strut their stuff

AMERICAN fashion design is often described as clean-cut and casual, reflecting athletic, carefree and health-conscious lifestyles.

Think Tommy Hilfiger, Calvin Klein and Ralph Lauren. Marc Jacobs, one of the most renowned American designers, however, loves to challenge such style.

Fashionistas in Shanghai were thrilled to see models wearing geisha-style makeup -- white faces, painted lips and exaggerated eyeliner -- display 16 sets of fresh, romantic outfits from the master designer's 2010 spring/summer collection at a recent fashion show in the Marc Jacob store in Citic Square on Nanjing Road W.

Unlike previous collections, which were known for being bright, bold and brave, the new collection features a soft pastel palette. Jacobs uses a lot of dramatic yet feminine details such as voluminous ruffles around the neck and exquisite pleats and trims.

Obviously he's tired of the overwhelming use of black leather and rivets in fashion these years and chooses instead to stud gleaming pearls on long, full dresses, shorts and even coats.

"If last season (2009 fall/winter) was a trip back to the 1980s, this was a trip to the theater, the ballet, the opera," Jacobs once said about this collection.

Betsy Yang, brand manager of Marc Jacobs on the Chinese mainland, says that shirts are must-have fashion items this season.

"Choose a shirt made of chiffon, satin or lace and wear it with a strap dress, a vest or even a camisole to create a layered effect," she says. "Perfect for the weather these days, a raincoat-style trench coat is also a good investment, especially when you wear it over the feminine, layered outfits to bring out a contrast."

The designer's second line, Marc by Marc Jacobs, however, still shows strong 1980s influence in its 2010 spring/summer collection, with many traces from previous collections.

At the brand's fashion show at Grand Gateway Plaza last Saturday, models wore little flared skirts, loose bloomers and cute tops in candy hues and all kinds of prints. Almost everything came in some sort of clashing prints, checks and stripes and it was all about being girlish glamorous.

The following DKNY show at the same venue was an ideal illustration of the casual, carefree New York style, though. Boyfriend jackets, one of the most popular fashion items in recent years, were the key elements throughout the show. They were paired with cuffed shorts, slouchy pants or classic cocktail dresses. There were also combinations of delicate floral prints in different sizes.

On Tuesday, another high-end American fashion brand, St John, introduced the most classic and polished American style in a show at the Peninsula Hotel, where the brand's new store is located.

On display were tailored fit jackets matched with flattering pencil skirts, graceful little black dresses decorated with shining crystal beads, strapless dresses with richly textured floral embroidery, as well as long, luxurious knitted evening gowns.




 

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