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June 22, 2014

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Array of styles grace catwalk in London

IN the world of women’s fashion, London often plays second fiddle to other style capitals — it lacks the allure of Paris’s haute couture or the polish of Milan’s luxury labels. Yet when it comes to dressing the gentleman, no city can rival the British capital’s heritage.

Alexander McQueen on Monday led the new season’s menswear catwalk shows in London to begin a four-day fashion display that mixed trendy labels like Tom Ford, Burberry and Moschino with traditional tailoring houses that have been perfecting their craft for decades.

Organizers want to highlight new talents and London’s status as the historic home of men’s fashion — a city that has dressed kings and the world’s richest men and invented classics like the tuxedo jacket, the bowler hat and the three-piece suit.

 McQueen showed stark white lab coat-like jackets accented with sporty prints and squiggle shapes, and punk-influenced outfits in red and shiny black leather — clothes that at first sight appeared anything but traditional. But many of his looks, like the waistcoat worn over an untucked shirt and the fitted double-breasted suit worn with sneakers, were clever takes on the best of classic English tailoring.

Luxury designers Burberry and Tom Ford conjured up completely different images of what makes a stylish man. While Burberry models donned colorful hats and soft flowing scarves, and looked like bookish artists, Ford’s men were cowboys through-and-through in fitted jeans, boots and biker jackets.

 Burberry — Britain’s most successful fashion label — drew a large crowd to its display, staged in a glass marquee in Hyde Park. The outfits came in arty prints and a rainbow of pretty colors, with everything from shades of turquoise and sea green to mustard, purple and pink.

Ford looked to Santa Fe and America’s West — where the designer spent his early years — for inspiration. He said he was branching out to casual wear with jeans, sporty jackets and sneakers.




 

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