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Boring banished in men’s fashions
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Soft touches, desire to be with nature, and references to music and royalty were in evidence on runways at recent menswear shows in Milan and London. Dull was out and luxury in as designers unveiled collections for the next fall and winter seasons.
Vivienne Westwood
British designer Vivienne Westwood’s menswear collection for fall was full of baggy trousers referencing hip hop music, mixed up with environmentalist messages.
There were three versions of the tracksuit, a hip hop favorite: a tight, high tech zip-up in gray, a loose and baggy one accented in black trim, and a full-on gold version with a hood. Westwood’s clothes have strong ties to music, so the nod to hip hop seemed only natural. She sent several models out wearing shirts emblazoned with the words “+ 5 degrees,” in reference to global warming. Her casual looks often featured low-waisted baggy trousers cut off at the knee.
D&G
North invades south in the designing duo Dolce&Gabbana’s menswear collection for next winter. The cold weather looks previewed on the first day of Milan Fashion Week a week ago took their cue from Medieval courts after the Norman conquest of Sicily, the designers’ eternal muse. Fabrics and yarns were warm and woolly, colors dark and royal. In Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana’s Norman court, the king wears a thick, sturdy top bearing the image of a king, perhaps a treasured predecessor, over slim-fitting trousers. Bejeweled gloves, slippers and, of course, a golden crown, finish the look. For a tour of his lands, there is a heavy sheepskin coat.
ROBERTO CAVALLI
Roberto Cavalli’s menswear collection next fall and winter encapsulated his vision of a man who is free spirited, never dull, and always impeccably dressed.
“So many menswear collections are boring,” Cavalli said before his show. “I try not to make it boring.”
His womenswear collections usually revolve around sexy dresses done in animal prints, and Cavalli’s men’s line also heeds the call of the wild. An overcoat starts out as herringbone at the bottom and gradually transforms to zebra print at the top. A slim-cut suit was paired with rock ’n’ roll inspired creepers with studs around the sole or done up in leopard. The leather in biker jackets is reworked with studs.
BURBERRY
Colorful silk scarves tied daintily around the neck, fishnet mesh vests, big furry mohair coats — and we’re talking about menswear, not women’s.
The latest men’s offerings from British luxury label Burberry Prorsum, showcased on Wednesday in London, were themed “A painterly journey.” The collection’s decadent fabrics and arty prints had a feel of the English dandy and more than a hint of femininity about them.
Chief designer Christopher Bailey said he was inspired by the works of British artists, including Christopher Wood and Ben Nicholson.
“That kind of translated into these hand-painted bags, hand-painted coats, embroideries and jacquards,” he said backstage after the show. “I wanted the collection to feel very, very rich as well.”
The designer will soon also take on the role of CEO at Burberry after Angela Ahrendts announced she was leaving the brand for Apple. While Bailey is admired for transforming Burberry from a fusty brand to Britain’s most powerful fashion house, there is uncertainty about how the label’s business will be affected by the change.
EMPORIO ARMANI
Italy’s fashion titan Giorgio Armani’s Emporio Armani menswear collection for next fall and winter stood out for its use of soft fabrics so lustrous they almost seemed lit from within.
From first to last, the collection was a masterful compendium of modern good taste. Armani made his name with the artfully deconstructed men’s jacket, and the narrow silhouette at Emporio looked fresh. Slim pants ended at the ankle over chunky oxfords. Jackets were tight, with three or four buttons, and had small, high collars.
The somewhat prim vibe of the jackets was counteracted by the quiet but deep luxury of fabrics. Fur was everywhere, either peeking out of hoods in flashes, or sleekly fashioned into soft overcoats and jackets. There also were sweaters with fake fur inserts.
MISSONI
Missoni recognizes men’s desire to escape, and be one with nature.
The fashion houses collection for next fall and winter had the urban surfer in mind.
The colors of the latest are inspired by the coastline: charcoal, greens, pine, indigo, with accents of orange and rust, the colors of the sunrise. Sea life motifs by a Milan-based graphic design studio, Carnovsky, are printed onto fabric for anoraks and jackets: jellyfish and octopus appear almost floral.
Luxurious sweaters are knitted from flax, and cashmere is mixed on the company’s looms north of Milan, allowing a measure of softness within the masculinity because “men like to indulge, but not look like they are,” Missoni said.
GUCCI
He’s a mod mariner, the Gucci man for next winter’s storms.
This Gucci sailor cuts a boxy figure in the peacoat that anchors the collection. This version in a rich, knotty texture is achieved by working a traditional Tuscan fabric with neoprene.
The looks previewed on Monday, the second day of Milan Fashion Week, have a definite 1960s vibe, with loose fitting short jackets and generous sweatshirts paired with slim fitting trousers. Creative director Frida Giannini’s palate of dusty pastels lends smoky contrast to the perfect black that permeates the collection. Giannini fully exploits Gucci’s roots as a leatherwear company with many leather pieces.
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