CHINESE fashion has most certainly arrived on the international scene. The works of China's designers appear on the catwalks of London, Paris and Milan and on the red carpets of international movie festivals and awards many Chinese actresses choose to reflect their heritage through their choice of dress.

And just as leading ladies opt for local luxury brands, the Victoria and Albert Museum in London recently acquired a gorgeous satin silk evening dress by Laurence Xu, featuring well-known motifs from that most traditional Chinese garment, the dragon robe.

The stunning dress was worn by Chinese actress Fan Bingbing at the 2010 Cannes Film Festival opening ceremony. The museum describes it as an eye-catching example of luxury fashion in contemporary China.

Another piece acquired by the Victoria and Albert is a new take on the qipao by Zhang Huishan, who talks about his career here.

Blending Chinese culture and traditions with modern twists, Chinese designers have come long way in recent years.

What most have in common is that they are young, professionally trained and have experience studying or working abroad.

Many also draw inspiration from their Chinese heritage through traditions like Chinese brush drawing, classic motif and hand embroidery.

To this they combine different styles they have absorbed from all over the world, creating a unique style of their own in a Western-Eastern fusion way.

Shanghai Daily talks to three distinguished Chinese designers on the international stage to learn their views of fashion, culture and life in general.

Vega Zashi Wang (王在实)

Beijing-born Vega Zashi Wang established her brand after graduating from Central Saint Martins in London, setting up a studio in Beijing in 2008. Her hand-made work is favored by many celebrities.

How did you become interested in fashion?

I decided that my life goal was in art and design related work when I was 16 and studying in Chichester in England. I chose garment design as it incorporates my favorite subjects, such as history, humanities, geography and art and design.

Tell us about your studies and work history.

I studied at the female garment design department of Central Saint Martins, after courses at London College of Fashion. I spent my holiday time on internships with some branded designers. Then I came back to my hometown to further my career.

What have you gained from studying abroad?

The most important thing I learned from studying in Britain is how to face myself, as well as the world. This is important to a designer as personal values and world view do affect design principles. Saint Martins gave me lots of knowledge, but more thoughts were formed from life in London. I learned how to pinpoint my perceptions and transform them into the language of design, using garments as a platform to express my feelings to the world.



What are your design principles?

Concise lines and tough profiles are the recent style in the brand, to build an independent, strong and powerful feminine figure with self-awareness. We insist on handmade garments and put effort to the natural texture of the textile and details of the garment. I always find inspiration in the human experience and things that touch me - even a sentence in a conversation with a friend can provide inspiration.

How does Chinese culture influence your work?

The influences are massive and my appreciation and understanding of female aesthetics are deep. In the past, many people asked me, "Why are there no Chinese elements in your work?" I replied, "My designs are full of Chinese elements." My appreciation of Oriental females and my traditional Oriental aesthetics affect my design, preventing me from over-sexualizing features. I present a more "female veiled sexy," such as the back or ankle. As much as the application of color, these are ingrained aesthetics.

Is there any difference between the Chinese and international stage?

The fundamental difference is not very big - I do things that I like, the place is not important. I'm enjoying the current situation because everything is possible in this booming environment. Lots is happening every day, pushing this young brand forward. I can challenge myself, build my own team and grow up with young people who have the same ambition.

What are your biggest achievements and the biggest challenges you've faced?

My biggest achievement is that I have my own team. Its members come from different cities, different backgrounds, but we have the same goal to achieve. I'm very glad I'm not working alone. We encourage and support each other, whatever happens in work. Advantages and disadvantages are always bound together. China used to be a big garment export country in the world, now it's experiencing the change from manufacture to design. This is a exciting moment. Disadvantages are challenges depending on how you look at it; to me, disadvantages today will become advantages tomorrow, as we are moving forward.

How could Chinese designers promote themselves better on the international platform?

They need to stick to their own style, do not get influenced by others or give up their design ideals for commercial reasons.

What are your plans for the future?

I've never tried very hard to push my brand to a certain level. Every progression just follows my designing ideal. I've worked with a high-tech company for a recent collection, which features modern elements such as black and white designs, stars, and sakura with advanced technical skills.

What's the current fashion design trend in China?

More young people with overseas study experience are dedicating themselves to the industry back in China. I hope we can change the way people used to think about "Chinese design." The "Chinese elements" cannot be presented by a certain pattern or graphic. We need to dig deeper into the core values of Chinese culture, the characteristics of our nation.

Who's your favorite designer and what's your design dream?

Yohji Yamamoto. I admire his insistence on his own design dream. My dream is that more young people understand what "design" is and the real value of a fashion product.

Xander Zhou (周翔宇)

Xander Zhou, 30, studied fashion design in the Netherlands and worked with Dutch designer Jeroen van Tuyl. Zhou established his own brand in Beijing in 2007 and showcased his collection during the London Fashion Week in 2012. His work has appeared in British Vogue, GQ and other media in China and overseas.

How did you become interested in fashion?

I had been interested in fashion since I was a child but the thing that caused me to seriously think of studying fashion was a second-hand sewing machine a friend gave me. I had started studying industrial design in China, but felt that didn't suit me, so dropped out after a month. I needed a new environment so I went to the Netherlands; there I bought some pieces of cloth and started to tailor my own clothes. I took them to Den Haag fashion college and began my career.

Tell us about your studies and work history.

I came back to China in 2007, after living in the Netherlands for six or seven years, as it was too comfortable there. Also, working for other brands had limitations. Coming back was exciting and the Chinese fashion media offered important support.

What have you gained from studying abroad?

Being born and raised in China and then studying in the Netherlands created a fusion of cultures, though some of my aesthetics are very Eastern.

What are your design principles?

Every season I have a different style.

How does Chinese culture influence your work?

It's hard to say how Chinese culture has influenced me separately. I can't say which part is Chinese or Western. I think the new generation is growing up with a background of blended culture so there is no need to emphasize which elements influence you. I express what is experienced.

Is there any difference between the Chinese and international stage?

The international stage is more formal and systemized.

What are your biggest achievements and the biggest challenges you've faced?

My biggest achievement is that I can design what I like and don't have to constrain myself. Also, I'm always surrounded by interesting people. The biggest challenge is the pressure. I have two collections a year which means I can't let the pace slacken.

How could Chinese designers promote themselves better on the international platform?

They should insist on things they think are right; have a stubborn idea of their design. Listen to others but follow their own beliefs.

Who is your favorite designer and what is your design dream?

Muccia Prada. My dream is to pursue what I like and not let design be the only thing in my life and become a burden.

What does the future hold for Chinese design?

The world is looking at China. There are opportunities and a bright future.

Zhang Huishan (张卉山)

Born in Qingdao in Shangdong Province, Zhang Huishan has lived a globe-trotting life. As well as London, he has lived in New Zealand and Paris. During his time at Central Saint Martins in London, Zhang worked for a year at Dior. He founded his label upon graduation in 2010.

How did you become interested in fashion?

When I was at high school in a foreign country, I was very attracted to art and design. Fashion is a great way for me to express my views on art.

Tell us about your studies and work history.

My basic fashion knowledge was acquired in New Zealand, where I received a solid understanding of fabric cutting. Later, I was fortunate enough to get into Central Saint Martins and had the honor of working at Dior. It truly broadened my horizons. Simply living in London and Paris also laid foundations. Every day is a learning process.

What have you gained from studying abroad?

The experience of studying and living abroad gave me the opportunity to try different elements, while also helping me look at Chinese culture from various perspectives. I am fond of this combination of experience and design philosophy, from which I can fuse different elements and Chinese culture.

What are your design principles?

My style has always been an integration of Chinese and Western culture. These two parts for me can't be divided. They are mixed together and complement each other. I want to combine the essence of traditional Chinese culture and Western aesthetics to create a Chinese luxury brand.

How does Chinese culture influence your work?

A Chinese cultural background gives me an Asian's viewpoint when studying Western culture and art, while my experience of living abroad gives me a Western background viewing Chinese culture.

Is there any difference between the Chinese and international stage?

The Chinese stage, while being international, also retain its unique Chinese characteristics.

What are your biggest achievements and the biggest challenges you've faced?

My biggest achievement has been acquiring recognition in various areas, especially international recognition. The most gratifying achievement is having my work sold in top international shopping malls. Chinese designers have an advantage in that our industry is very young and receives lots of attention. But every designer is also a pioneer, which offers challenges and opportunity.

How could Chinese designers promote themselves better on the international platform?

No matter whether a Chinese designer intentionally includes it or not, there will always be a Chinese element and Chinese culture incorporated in their work. This is an excellent means of promotion. Play to one's strengths.

What are your plans for the future?

To develop my brand, promote Chinese culture internationally and bring Western culture to China.

Who is your favorite designer and what is your design dream?

My favorite designer is Yohji Yamamoto. My dream is to establish HZ as a luxury Chinese brand.