Burberry in command
March 7, 2010, Sunday
|
Print Edition
Print Edition
FOR fall, London's muses ranged from haute bohemians and art-school kids to medieval knights and World War II warriors.
Burberry's chief creative officer, Christopher Bailey, showed exactly who's in command of British fashion with a powerful, military-themed collection built around the aviator jacket, the trench and the frock coat °?-- with softness coming in the form of curvy silk, lace and washed velvet silhouettes.
This was the second season that Burberry showed in London, and the front row was stacked with celebrities Kate Hudson, Claire Danes, Mia Wasikowska, the star of "Alice in Wonderland," Nina Porter, the face of an upcoming Burberry beauty campaign, and Carolina Herrera.
American Vogue editor-in-chief Anna Wintour jetted in, wearing a burgundy Chanel dress as she sipped champagne in the front row.
Burberry's commands came in the form of shearling aviator jackets in olive green wool felt or classic chocolate leather -- some were cropped, others were turned inside out to reveal an expanse of creamy fur, and still others had oversize or double-zip collars and leather strap details. Even Burberry's signature trench earned its wings, with aviator-jacket details worked onto the top half and a shearling lining.
And when Bailey finally touched down, he turned his attention to the ground troops, with sharply tailored, cropped great coats and frock coats; peplum riding jackets, and A-line coats with razor pleats at the back °?-- and gold buttons galore. Sailors had their say in the form of peacoats and navy blue coats with gold zippers at the waist.
The softer side of the collection came by way of glamorous coats and jackets made from a patchwork of different sheepskins. Although the theme was all "Master and Commander," there was a certain Swinging London attitude. Models wore their military garb -- and their thigh-high boots -- with the sort of sexiness and nonchalance that would have had peaceniks jumping for joy.
Vivienne Westwood mixed plenty of her signatures into a commercial collection -- tailoring, corsetry, tartan and military elements. For her grown-up clientele, there was plenty on offer, including sweeping military coats, which came in either gray or green wool, and trouser suits in vibrant color combinations, such as blue wool pinstripes or purple wool piped in pink.
But Westwood hasn't forgotten the party girl contingent -- such as Pixie Geldof, who walked in the show -- and sent out a clutch of dresses to set flashbulbs popping. They included a cowl-neck minidress fashioned from a mosaic of holographic silver vinyl, and a corseted, off-the-shoulder number in stiff peach satin with a tartan pattern.
Matthew Williamson, the designer famous for his bohemian aesthetic and ethnic inspirations, moved on this season, turning out a strong, sophisticated collection that had his fans, including front-row guest Sienna Miller, swooning.
Grecian goddesses clad in delicately draped Lurex dresses or satin gowns with myriad folds rubbed shoulders with urban sophisticates dressed in dramatic tweed coats with a single ruffle rippling down the front.
Matthew Williamson's love affair with color continued in the form of a hot pink Sherlock Holmes coat and an electric blue, ruffle-front dress.
There were also gently draped pouf skirts with digital ikat prints and a midnight blue Lurex dress with chunky ruffles.
"It was phenomenal, and I think he's reached a whole new level," said Miller, who later rushed off to prepare her own show for Twenty8Twelve, the clothing line she designs with her sister, Savannah Miller.
Burberry's chief creative officer, Christopher Bailey, showed exactly who's in command of British fashion with a powerful, military-themed collection built around the aviator jacket, the trench and the frock coat °?-- with softness coming in the form of curvy silk, lace and washed velvet silhouettes.
This was the second season that Burberry showed in London, and the front row was stacked with celebrities Kate Hudson, Claire Danes, Mia Wasikowska, the star of "Alice in Wonderland," Nina Porter, the face of an upcoming Burberry beauty campaign, and Carolina Herrera.
American Vogue editor-in-chief Anna Wintour jetted in, wearing a burgundy Chanel dress as she sipped champagne in the front row.
Burberry's commands came in the form of shearling aviator jackets in olive green wool felt or classic chocolate leather -- some were cropped, others were turned inside out to reveal an expanse of creamy fur, and still others had oversize or double-zip collars and leather strap details. Even Burberry's signature trench earned its wings, with aviator-jacket details worked onto the top half and a shearling lining.
And when Bailey finally touched down, he turned his attention to the ground troops, with sharply tailored, cropped great coats and frock coats; peplum riding jackets, and A-line coats with razor pleats at the back °?-- and gold buttons galore. Sailors had their say in the form of peacoats and navy blue coats with gold zippers at the waist.
The softer side of the collection came by way of glamorous coats and jackets made from a patchwork of different sheepskins. Although the theme was all "Master and Commander," there was a certain Swinging London attitude. Models wore their military garb -- and their thigh-high boots -- with the sort of sexiness and nonchalance that would have had peaceniks jumping for joy.
Vivienne Westwood mixed plenty of her signatures into a commercial collection -- tailoring, corsetry, tartan and military elements. For her grown-up clientele, there was plenty on offer, including sweeping military coats, which came in either gray or green wool, and trouser suits in vibrant color combinations, such as blue wool pinstripes or purple wool piped in pink.
But Westwood hasn't forgotten the party girl contingent -- such as Pixie Geldof, who walked in the show -- and sent out a clutch of dresses to set flashbulbs popping. They included a cowl-neck minidress fashioned from a mosaic of holographic silver vinyl, and a corseted, off-the-shoulder number in stiff peach satin with a tartan pattern.
Matthew Williamson, the designer famous for his bohemian aesthetic and ethnic inspirations, moved on this season, turning out a strong, sophisticated collection that had his fans, including front-row guest Sienna Miller, swooning.
Grecian goddesses clad in delicately draped Lurex dresses or satin gowns with myriad folds rubbed shoulders with urban sophisticates dressed in dramatic tweed coats with a single ruffle rippling down the front.
Matthew Williamson's love affair with color continued in the form of a hot pink Sherlock Holmes coat and an electric blue, ruffle-front dress.
There were also gently draped pouf skirts with digital ikat prints and a midnight blue Lurex dress with chunky ruffles.
"It was phenomenal, and I think he's reached a whole new level," said Miller, who later rushed off to prepare her own show for Twenty8Twelve, the clothing line she designs with her sister, Savannah Miller.
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