Checking out Paris show styles
October 7, 2012, Sunday
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Print Edition
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WITH 1950s and 1960s retro style up against giant hula hoop bags, global exotic and an over-the-top homage to excess, designers at Paris Fashion Week presented a rich array of hits ... and the occasional miss.
Dior
Freedom was at the heart of Raf Simons' debut ready-to-wear outing for Christian Dior - twinning the 1950's "New Look," with the liberated hemlines of the 1960s. He took the "New Look" bar jacket and sent it down the catwalk, often bare-legged, with hemlines of the sexual revolution. "The foundation of the house is a reaction to restrictions," said Simons.
Vivienne Westwood
"Global exotic," is how English designer Vivienne Westwood described her brilliant show. Her unique eccentricity saw her mix up Bangkok-style catwomen, Chinese tea prints, tropical cowboys, the Ballets Russes and even a Queen Elizabeth II lookalike and still produce a coherent, unified show.
Saint Laurent Paris
The excitement was palpable at designer Hedi Slimane's womenswear ready-to-wear debut at Saint Laurent Paris. And Slimane did not copy blindly, instead bringing a modern, edgy yet elegant feel to the YSL classics. Here again was the fringed safari look, the finely tailored trouser suit with lean legs and fitted jacket, the sheer black blouse and the ruffled dress with peasant collar - all given an up-to-the-minute urban sensibility that never felt dated.
Chanel
Fun was the healthy mantra which infiltrated Chanel's show - a bright and diverse collection brimming with great new ideas. A-line skirts were playfully short, colorful checks contrasted funkily with geometric flashes. One model in a crossing "C'' swimsuit even carried a 1-meter hula hoop handbag. Lagerfeld, who turns 80 next year, has produced the youngest collection Chanel's seen for a while.
Louis Vuitton
Louis Vuitton's 1960s style Spring/Summer fashion show twinned the iconic checked Damier pattern with a set designed by artist Daniel Buren. In fashion terms the show was strong, with most of the 64 retro looks delivered in Mary Quant-style checks that made a bold optical statement. And it's a fair bet that by next year this bold check will be everywhere.
Dior
Freedom was at the heart of Raf Simons' debut ready-to-wear outing for Christian Dior - twinning the 1950's "New Look," with the liberated hemlines of the 1960s. He took the "New Look" bar jacket and sent it down the catwalk, often bare-legged, with hemlines of the sexual revolution. "The foundation of the house is a reaction to restrictions," said Simons.
Vivienne Westwood
"Global exotic," is how English designer Vivienne Westwood described her brilliant show. Her unique eccentricity saw her mix up Bangkok-style catwomen, Chinese tea prints, tropical cowboys, the Ballets Russes and even a Queen Elizabeth II lookalike and still produce a coherent, unified show.
Saint Laurent Paris
The excitement was palpable at designer Hedi Slimane's womenswear ready-to-wear debut at Saint Laurent Paris. And Slimane did not copy blindly, instead bringing a modern, edgy yet elegant feel to the YSL classics. Here again was the fringed safari look, the finely tailored trouser suit with lean legs and fitted jacket, the sheer black blouse and the ruffled dress with peasant collar - all given an up-to-the-minute urban sensibility that never felt dated.
Chanel
Fun was the healthy mantra which infiltrated Chanel's show - a bright and diverse collection brimming with great new ideas. A-line skirts were playfully short, colorful checks contrasted funkily with geometric flashes. One model in a crossing "C'' swimsuit even carried a 1-meter hula hoop handbag. Lagerfeld, who turns 80 next year, has produced the youngest collection Chanel's seen for a while.
Louis Vuitton
Louis Vuitton's 1960s style Spring/Summer fashion show twinned the iconic checked Damier pattern with a set designed by artist Daniel Buren. In fashion terms the show was strong, with most of the 64 retro looks delivered in Mary Quant-style checks that made a bold optical statement. And it's a fair bet that by next year this bold check will be everywhere.
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