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Cozy men's styles warm up winter
By Daniela Petroff |
January 31, 2010, Sunday
|
Print Edition
Print Edition
THERE was a chill in the air both on and off the runway during the four days of Italian menswear for the fall/winter 2010-2011 season which ended last week.
Much of the clothing was dedicated to the outdoors, from bulky knits to heavy duty footwear, culminating in the D&G show dedicated to "life on the slopes," which wrapped up the short fashion?week.
But if the styles jibed well with the damp fog that enveloped the city during fashion?week, designers above all hoped the easily wearable outfits would help defrost the economic freeze which has hit the menswear industry.
Miuccia Prada summarized the new approach backstage after her show: "It's time to reinvent the banal." Without using the word "preppy," the trendsetting designer nevertheless presented a collection that would make anyone feel right at home in Harvard Yard, with tweed blazers to crew neck pullovers and casual slacks.
Gucci's Creative Director Frida Giannini took much the same tack, saying after her show that "the moment calls for timeless rather than seasonal fashion."
The Gucci collection revolves around a classical sports jacket, which came in camel hair, herring bone or velvet as well as specially treated leather and fur. Slim pants, V-neck sweaters, scarves and traditional Gucci loafers complete the top-drawer look.
While most designers are fighting their economic battles with sporty elegance, Donatella Versace flexed her fashion muscles with a roaring motorcycle show full of shiny biker boots, black leather jackets and bulky bags. Dolce&Gabbana also brought a tough look to face the times -- presenting a yesteryear Sicilian construction worker complete with cap, sleeveless undershirt and oversized dusty footwear.
PRADA
The "preppy" collection was so normal that it might have risked boredom were it not for the Prada fashion genius. Thus a simple crew neck sweater has an almost plunging neckline and is cropped temptingly above the waist to reveal the classic blue shirt underneath. A prosaic pair of slacks are spiffed up by an extra high waistline.
While blazers are as old school as they get, the overcoats are definitely avant-garde in brightly woven tapestry prints. Footwear is of the tasseled college loafer kind, but bags in multicolored fabric take Mr Prada off campus and down fashion boulevard. Collection novelty comes in the presentation of "his and her" versions of many of the outfits.
CAVALLI
Roberto Cavalli played on the return to classics for his winter collection, with everything an over-the-top version of traditional menswear. Pants are in woven leather and cropped mid-calf. T-shirts laden with sequins peer out of tailored jackets. The stripe of a pinstripe suit is in leather, while kilt pleats decorate the rear view on a pair of jeans.
The overall look of the collection is sensual rather than sensible.
GUCCI
The Gucci fall-winter 2010 collection is casual yet sophisticated, with details such as leather finishings or fur workmanship making the difference.
The overall silhouette is narrow, with a slim equestrian pant cropped at a sockless ankle and worn with the traditional Gucci horse bit loafer. Jackets are tailored and usually paired with a silk turtleneck and V-neck pullover. Hand-knit sweaters of the winter lodge type and ample overcoats complete the confident male look.
VERSACE
Donatella Versace, who dubs her winter collection "anticrisis," opted to face the economic slump head-on with an aggressive biker collection full of shiny black leather.
Models walked down the runway in biker boots, tight pants, chain metal sweaters and tough guy jackets, representing the best of yesteryear's punk and vintage Versace.
Donatella Versace cyberworld punk was offset by DSquared2's cross between a blood-spattered hockey player and characters from the "Rocky Horror Show."
D&G
In what was the most upbeat, and probably most sellable, collection, the designing duo Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana created a day on the ski slopes, from an early morning run, to a late night party in a cozy chalet.
Replete with bulky Nordic printed sweaters, knitted hats and scarves, snow boots, and shiny ski suits, the collection is a ski bum's delight.
Much of the clothing was dedicated to the outdoors, from bulky knits to heavy duty footwear, culminating in the D&G show dedicated to "life on the slopes," which wrapped up the short fashion?week.
But if the styles jibed well with the damp fog that enveloped the city during fashion?week, designers above all hoped the easily wearable outfits would help defrost the economic freeze which has hit the menswear industry.
Miuccia Prada summarized the new approach backstage after her show: "It's time to reinvent the banal." Without using the word "preppy," the trendsetting designer nevertheless presented a collection that would make anyone feel right at home in Harvard Yard, with tweed blazers to crew neck pullovers and casual slacks.
Gucci's Creative Director Frida Giannini took much the same tack, saying after her show that "the moment calls for timeless rather than seasonal fashion."
The Gucci collection revolves around a classical sports jacket, which came in camel hair, herring bone or velvet as well as specially treated leather and fur. Slim pants, V-neck sweaters, scarves and traditional Gucci loafers complete the top-drawer look.
While most designers are fighting their economic battles with sporty elegance, Donatella Versace flexed her fashion muscles with a roaring motorcycle show full of shiny biker boots, black leather jackets and bulky bags. Dolce&Gabbana also brought a tough look to face the times -- presenting a yesteryear Sicilian construction worker complete with cap, sleeveless undershirt and oversized dusty footwear.
PRADA
The "preppy" collection was so normal that it might have risked boredom were it not for the Prada fashion genius. Thus a simple crew neck sweater has an almost plunging neckline and is cropped temptingly above the waist to reveal the classic blue shirt underneath. A prosaic pair of slacks are spiffed up by an extra high waistline.
While blazers are as old school as they get, the overcoats are definitely avant-garde in brightly woven tapestry prints. Footwear is of the tasseled college loafer kind, but bags in multicolored fabric take Mr Prada off campus and down fashion boulevard. Collection novelty comes in the presentation of "his and her" versions of many of the outfits.
CAVALLI
Roberto Cavalli played on the return to classics for his winter collection, with everything an over-the-top version of traditional menswear. Pants are in woven leather and cropped mid-calf. T-shirts laden with sequins peer out of tailored jackets. The stripe of a pinstripe suit is in leather, while kilt pleats decorate the rear view on a pair of jeans.
The overall look of the collection is sensual rather than sensible.
GUCCI
The Gucci fall-winter 2010 collection is casual yet sophisticated, with details such as leather finishings or fur workmanship making the difference.
The overall silhouette is narrow, with a slim equestrian pant cropped at a sockless ankle and worn with the traditional Gucci horse bit loafer. Jackets are tailored and usually paired with a silk turtleneck and V-neck pullover. Hand-knit sweaters of the winter lodge type and ample overcoats complete the confident male look.
VERSACE
Donatella Versace, who dubs her winter collection "anticrisis," opted to face the economic slump head-on with an aggressive biker collection full of shiny black leather.
Models walked down the runway in biker boots, tight pants, chain metal sweaters and tough guy jackets, representing the best of yesteryear's punk and vintage Versace.
Donatella Versace cyberworld punk was offset by DSquared2's cross between a blood-spattered hockey player and characters from the "Rocky Horror Show."
D&G
In what was the most upbeat, and probably most sellable, collection, the designing duo Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana created a day on the ski slopes, from an early morning run, to a late night party in a cozy chalet.
Replete with bulky Nordic printed sweaters, knitted hats and scarves, snow boots, and shiny ski suits, the collection is a ski bum's delight.
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