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Designers tap Boy Scout spirit
By Emilie Marsh |
August 29, 2010, Sunday
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Print Edition
Print Edition
ENTER the all-terrain man bag. For spring, designer labels are beefing up men's pocketbooks and offering rugged backpacks and other outerwear-inspired satchels.
"It's always been part of the man's wardrobe, not just because of the practical element, but because there's something iconic and very masculine, traced back to his Boy Scout days," said Stephen Ayres, buying manager for menswear at Liberty.
European brands including Lanvin, Dries Van Noten, Prada, Marni, Dunhill, Gucci, Gaspard Yurkievich and Emporio Armani all sent sportswear-inspired bags down the Paris runway, with a focus on action-packed accessorizing. "What I like about the backpack is the idea of movement in the way it's carried, something not too precious. It's transferable from the back to the shoulder or held in your hand like a shopping bag," said Lanvin menswear designer Lucas Ossendrijver, who sports a nylon knapsack he picked up at a flea market in Japan.
Ossendrijver brought backpacks back for fall. For spring, he parlayed his penchant for utilitarian accessories into a range of multipurpose fanny packs made from recycled nylon and equipped with zippers and straps. "There's something more masculine about it, which allows us to use precious leathers or jacquard prints, but because of its shape it doesn't look delicate and is still unique," he said. "I wanted to experiment with the rucksack," added Marni's Consuelo Castiglioni. "Known as a functional outerwear accessory, it is transformed into a more formal piece and used in an urban context."
"It's always been part of the man's wardrobe, not just because of the practical element, but because there's something iconic and very masculine, traced back to his Boy Scout days," said Stephen Ayres, buying manager for menswear at Liberty.
European brands including Lanvin, Dries Van Noten, Prada, Marni, Dunhill, Gucci, Gaspard Yurkievich and Emporio Armani all sent sportswear-inspired bags down the Paris runway, with a focus on action-packed accessorizing. "What I like about the backpack is the idea of movement in the way it's carried, something not too precious. It's transferable from the back to the shoulder or held in your hand like a shopping bag," said Lanvin menswear designer Lucas Ossendrijver, who sports a nylon knapsack he picked up at a flea market in Japan.
Ossendrijver brought backpacks back for fall. For spring, he parlayed his penchant for utilitarian accessories into a range of multipurpose fanny packs made from recycled nylon and equipped with zippers and straps. "There's something more masculine about it, which allows us to use precious leathers or jacquard prints, but because of its shape it doesn't look delicate and is still unique," he said. "I wanted to experiment with the rucksack," added Marni's Consuelo Castiglioni. "Known as a functional outerwear accessory, it is transformed into a more formal piece and used in an urban context."
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